SV Portal Forums banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A couple months ago I posted that my 2007 sv1000 wouldn't start but after help from others, i was able to get it started, it ran very rough and couldn't seem to get it right.
heres the link:


Now, it wont start at all.. I can see the fuel spraying out of the injectors and both plugs are firing.. i'm about to give up.
 

·
Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
Joined
·
1,551 Posts
Damn, thats a pain..... fuel and spark, but no fire, thats real weird.....

schmidt314 or Longhair may have some ideas......

Go back to your original post and maybe send a PM to one of them...?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Urbanjugle

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Can you check how strong the spark is? How many millimeters will it jump? Can't remember if there are a given number in the workshop manual, but normally somewhere around 10mm should be good.
A friend had a old virago with spark on both cylinders but one not running - the one not running only jumped 2-3mm which was too little power for it to even ignite the fuel in the cylinder.

When you are sure the spark is good try with some starter fluid sprayed into both intakes and see if you can get it to run just a little. Then we will know if something is wrong with injectors cycle even tough you see them squirt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
645 Posts
Um 10mm is near half inch, 0.7 and 0.8mm should be a good place to start. Not sure what the factory gap is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
I was probably a little unclear - even tough you are able to see the spark by can be very weak and cause bad or no ignition of the fuel mixture.

Rule of thumb: It takes about 3000 volts for a spark to jump 1mm. Humidity in air can change this.
If the spark is able to jump 10mm it will be 30,000 volts. While the spark plug gap is sub millimetre, it will just make for a better ignition of the fuel when the spark is loaded with more power.

Sometimes you can be fooled by just measuring resistance of the coil and wiring.

This little tool can come in handy, but it not necessary.
Light Audio equipment Font Cable Electronic device

Take two wires, shove one into the spark plug cap and the the other to ground somewhere - observe how far you can pull the ends apart while still sparking.

Edit: Just had a quick look in the workshop manual and can't find a specific number for how big a gap the spark should be able to jump.
But try it out and see how far you can make it jump - if only a few millimetre it will definitely be a reason for bad running engine.
 

·
Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
Joined
·
1,551 Posts
To a point i agree with the gap that the spark will cross being reasonable......the potency of the spark, which may be either plugs or coils, or even the leads (they like a trim of about 5mm to freshen them) can cause a loss of power for the spark, and as soon as you add compression in the cyclinder, its a lot harder to force the spark across a gap......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Damn, thats a pain..... fuel and spark, but no fire, thats real weird.....

schmidt314 or Longhair may have some ideas......

Go back to your original post and maybe send a PM to one of them...?
ya.. im stumped. could a camshaft sensor be acting up and not allowing the ecu to fire at the right timing or could the ecu be defective?
 

Attachments

·
Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
Joined
·
1,551 Posts
Assuming that spark tester is showing the spark happening ? Probably be easier to see if it was darker, but, it looks a little off... and as i mentioned previous, once compression is added, it is enough to pretty much kill the spark altogether, the density of the air makes it super tough to push a spark through.....then add the fuel mix, and that quenches the last of it..

schmidt314 has probably got some better ideas about whats going on.

You have run all the test that are in the manual ? Even if it isnt throwing a code, its worth going through them all...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
By looking at your picture is seems like the two points are VERY close together and I'm not able to see a spark? If the spark is not able to jump a bigger gap you very likely got a problem right there.
Important is do all testing of both coils! If you find one good and one bad, you can swap coils and plugs around - just remember to put it back together in the right order before you put the plugs back into the cylinder head and try to run the engine.

Did you previusly meassure coils and cable to the spark plug gap?
Below is from chapter 7 of the workshop manual - preform both tests and let us know what you are able to measure:
Rectangle Font Parallel Pattern Slope



Not saying it can't be ECU or CKP sensor but very offend I see people jumping to that conclusion without doing proper testing only to discoverit wasn't the case and money are flushed down the drain.

You can try to preform these measurements (also from chapter 7 of the workshop manual):
Font Parallel Motor vehicle Document Paper


To sum it all up:
1: How far are the sparks for each coil able to jump and what kind of resistance are you able to measure?
2: If spark is strong and resistance are within spec, proceed to CKP sensor test and let us know what you find.


For CKP sensor test there might be a difference in the ECU connector/wiring if your bike is K5+. If that's the case and you don't have the K5 supplementary workshop manual, let me know and I'll find it for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
When we are sure ignition is on point, then do the fuel flow test (chapter 4) as suggested by vic_bitter in the other thread.

Motor vehicle Font Newspaper Publication Automotive design


Note: It shouldn't be necessary to remove the wiring from the ECU connector, put a jumper wire into the connector and connect it to the battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Hey 03sv1000, Glenn from Aus. How have you been getting on with the tests that the lads have shared with you mate?
Your original post indicates that the bike hadn’t been used for some years before you bought it, we need to assume that the reason it was parked up is for the very reason you are having problems now. And you have to assume that the previous owner was an enthusiastic if somewhat clueless tinkerer, CHECK EVERYTHING!
I guess like most of us on this forum, you will have your copy of the 05 service manual with the other supplements that are also available, 05 and 03, from memory. If not I think there is a link to them on this forum, Missing Link can point you in the right direction I think.
Many things need to align to allow an engine to run and perform properly, I’m sure once you get it sorted you will have great knowledge of your bike, an experience which can’t be bought.
As the great Peter Gabriel sang, ‘Don’t give up’ we still need you ‘Don’t give up’ you still have us.
Best of luck 03sv100, keep posting and asking questions.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top