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KNEE DRAGGER
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5,238 Posts
Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Yes I will use the 31J stock DL2014 head gasket.

I just made up my mind that I will go with stock piston and not JE 13:1

I measured up my motor and if I ditch the base gasket and use suzuki bond and use DL headgasket i will get 1mm squish and CR of 11.72:1



Thanks again for all inputs :)



If any of you out there wonder if upgrading your SV1000 03/04 with 05up parts is beneficial.

I swap'd the TBs, snorkel and exhaust camshafts for 05 parts and my 03 bike gain'd 4hp in top end and the low spot at 5-6K rpm was improved by 4hp as well.

I run stock exhaust and PC3 stock program and bike now makes 114,4 RWHP hopfully a little more when DL cylinders are mounted



Kristian.


I would recommend running the base gaskets. There are both water and oil passages in the base that are critical. I always use gaskets and mill the deck down.
-ms
 

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Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
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Here you go.. Green is before 05 parts.
Red is with 05 parts
Blue is with 05 parts and home made velocity stacks
It seems that the "stacks" version drops away more at the top end...... i go along with arcore in thinking the red is better.....

With your home made velocity stacks, what did you do with them ?
 

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Yes only stacks alone makes the difference from red to blue line on dyno sheet.
With my current motor setup the intake cam lobe centers are right on the money (with 0,5mm milled of cylinders = squish 1mm)
I am thinking of removing my powercommander, since i can feel no difference at all when riding my bike. It runs just as fine without as with PC. Dyno showed that it ran a little rich in low to middle rpm and ok in high rpm. Having a custom map made is very expensive and does not seem to have big gains.
 

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do not hesitate, buy an autotune (if your powercommander is V) and start making your own maps, the biggest profit is obtained when you get the correct AFR. It is without a doubt an investment that you will appreciate. and verify that the lambda is canceled so that the power works as it should
 

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Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
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2,018 Posts
Stacks fits over rubber trumpets in airbox. They "move" some HP from top end to middel rpm, but not as much gains as I hoped for. Just a shot in the dark, inspired by some pictures of other stacks and made them on my 3Dprinter
I see that the front cylinder one seems to be about 5mm longer than the rear (at a guess)... was there a reason for that ?
 

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The short one limited by the space in airbox, any longer and it will interfere with air filter. I have seen people making air box bigger verticaly with spacers, but you have to lift the gas tank. It was just an experiment with the stacks, I dont think i will use them due to low gains.
Mabye going the other way, if one could shorten intake distance it would by beneficial. Somebody i a forum said the TL1000R TBs have shorter vertical distance, and they make more top end power. I know TLR are different in other parts as well, but from what I have read, even if you put TLR heads, cams on SV it still does not yeld big gains. So mabye some og the magic is stored in the TLR TB configuration?!
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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5,238 Posts
Discussion Starter · #51 ·
The short one limited by the space in airbox, any longer and it will interfere with air filter. I have seen people making air box bigger verticaly with spacers, but you have to lift the gas tank. It was just an experiment with the stacks, I dont think i will use them due to low gains.

Mabye going the other way, if one could shorten intake distance it would by beneficial. Somebody i a forum said the TL1000R TBs have shorter vertical distance, and they make more top end power. I know TLR are different in other parts as well, but from what I have read, even if you put TLR heads, cams on SV it still does not yeld big gains. So mabye some og the magic is stored in the TLR TB configuration?!


If you are looking at top end power, I would be looking other places than the throttle bodies to be honest. I have done 54.75mm throttle bodies, pulled out the STVs, run an eliminator with big injectors that work awesome. TLR throttle bodies are 4 injector units.

There is lots of power to be had in head porting also. The 36mm intake valves can actually flow very well, but if you go to the 4 or 5mm oversize intake valve in the SV head, things work quite well. In many cases we have had to epoxy in TL heads to get the speed up.

Also remember going to a TL head has several other impacts that no one thinks about. It will lower compression with the SV pistons, if milled down much at all, the intake valves will hit the pistons due to 36mm valve relief cuts and the use of a 40mm intake valve. Low compression, big ports, big cams, make a poor combo in my opinion.

-ms
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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5,238 Posts
Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Mr. Schmidt do you think there would be any gains from high lift cams from JHS with 11.72:1 compression? JHS racing sais that cams normally add 8bhp at all rpm. My SV heads are stock


Cams will help, but consider cost and all other things when building. Too much cam with not enough compression will make the bike feel like a 2 stroke.

I have used sets of JHS cams, Spears, and a few others. To optimize cams you will likely need slotted gear kit also which also add to the cost. Cams with gears are a big cost.

You can make big power with those cams.

What is your goal with the build? Obviously it needs to run on pump gas but are you wanting to beef up midrange or are you looking to make big power all through the range? Consider the total lift, lift acceleration, valve springs, installed height, coil bind and such when doing cams.

-ms
 

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My goal is to get close to around 120 rwhp witout loosing low and mid range power. I am no mechanic but love to work on my bikes and optimize whatever I can. I dont care about time and labour invested, as long as I can do the job myself and learn more about engines. I have basic mechanics skills as access to machine shop tools at my workplace. I thought cams mabye where a "drop in" solution, but seems more is mandatory. Might be to complicated and expencive for me at this time. Mods so far is DL cylinders, Squish=1mm, lightly ported heads, '05 cams, 54mm TBs, PC3 standard tuning.
Next project might be custom 2-1 exhaust header (inspired by M4 header design) and use stock exhaust can.
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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5,238 Posts
Discussion Starter · #55 ·
My goal is to get close to around 120 rwhp witout loosing low and mid range power. I am no mechanic but love to work on my bikes and optimize whatever I can. I dont care about time and labour invested, as long as I can do the job myself and learn more about engines. I have basic mechanics skills as access to machine shop tools at my workplace. I thought cams mabye where a "drop in" solution, but seems more is mandatory. Might be to complicated and expencive for me at this time. Mods so far is DL cylinders, Squish=1mm, lightly ported heads, '05 cams, 54mm TBs, PC3 standard tuning.

Next project might be custom 2-1 exhaust header (inspired by M4 header design) and use stock exhaust can.


On a stock bore engine, stock piston, milled head, deck height set, cleaned up ports (who did your porting?), a bit of a change in cam timing, M4 full exhaust, fuel mapping, ignition timing, you can be into the 120s.

-ms
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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5,238 Posts
Discussion Starter · #57 ·
I did porting myself. Mabye I should check cam timing again after I changed to DL cylinder/pistons. I dont (and Danish cops dont) like noisy exhaust systems, so i better keep my stock exhaust cans.


Hopefully you didn’t just make things bigger in the ports or drop the floors. You can make big issues on the short side radius that will not be good for performance.
-ms
 

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No i didnt make things bigger. I smoothend the transition from valve seats to casting and smoothend the short radius so it feelt smooth when running a finger over it, without removing too much material. And sanded surface to a smoother finish. Didnt touch the intake duct at all since i read that a roughed finish was good for mixing air/fuel
 

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arcore, I have been looking for a PC-V and autotune on ebay, amazon, local, but can only find new expensive ones...
Woolich racing makes a kit where it can autotune AFR in the stock ecu but it is also expensive.
 
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