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Sounds like a fair price, thanks for letting me know. I am a little tempted by the Woolich autotune kit as well. It is a bit more expensive, but i like the idea about using stock ecu and not having a piggy bag system. I have an 05 ECU and wiring harness in transit bought on ebay, so using woolich kit is an option.
 

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My goal is to get close to around 120 rwhp
Next project might be custom 2-1 exhaust header (inspired by M4 header design) and use stock exhaust can.
Perhaps this could help you in the construction of your 2in1 manifold, it is for DL ​​1000 von so it would not be very difficult to fit it with some modifications and it has a low cost. It won't save you from welding but will help tremendously with curves.
 

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Thanks, good prices, but the midpipes looks very different from SV setup. Got price from M4 on just the mid pipes, 348 USD!!!!! They clerly dont wont to sell individual pieces. I will make my own exhaust inspired by M4. Hopefully I will see some HP gains, if not, at least I gave my TIG welder some exercise :)
 

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It is true that the manifolds are different from SV and M4, however they do not seem very difficult to adapt to it with some retouching considering that the engine architecture is the same. They do not have balance tubes but that does not seem to be an impediment to performance, if you look at their shapes they are similar to similar high performance like Aprilia Rsv or KTM 990. I had the opportunity to test an arrow collector on my vstrom (3 photos ) and there is an improvement. across the range. For the price they have, they seemed like an option to try.
 

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Hey arcore.

Thanks for suggesting the DL headers from Dominator. I ended up buying one and chopped it into pieces. Just finished welding it up and startetfired up the bike in my garage. Its snowing outside, so can't test ride it. Still need to fit a bung for the wideband sensor
117359
 

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My intention was that he could take advantage of the curves mostly for his purpose, I am what I would have done in his case, faster than starting from scratch. the manifold looks good, it is good at soldering, although I would have tried giving the rear cylinder a longer stroke to equalize the lengths of both manifolds. I do not like the new functioning of the forum so I do not know if you will see me much more here
 

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Sorry to hear that you might be leaving forum. Manifolds are both 660mm in lenght from cylinder to collector, so hopefully i dont need a crossover pipe.
Does it say that the two are the same length? that is good. About the forum I was disgusted but it will be that I am outdated, maybe if I can understand it I like it, we will see
 

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[QUOTE = "jumjum, publicación: 1852330831, miembro: 57309"]
Sí, ambos tienen la misma longitud. Tomó algo de tiempo y esfuerzo obtener la misma longitud y aún encajar debajo de los carenados,
[/CITAR]
GR, felicidades entonces, seguro que van bien
 

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Awesome posting I’ve been reading. I have a 06 SV 1000 they I got for dirt cheap. Mint condition body but exploded magnets. The dealership they last owner went to disassemble his engine, handed it to him and in a box and said good luck buddy!
And for $400.00 usd it came home with me.
So my question is, seeing
Bore / stroke98.0 mm × 66.0 mm
how the bore and stroke are the same as the TL , have you or anyone you know try to use the TL rotor or use it’s crankshaft and it’s rotor to get away from the exposed magnets?
And bonus question, will any of the gsxr slipper clutches work in a SV ? Possibly the early 600’s

Cheers

Alaska SV
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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5,238 Posts
Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Awesome posting I’ve been reading. I have a 06 SV 1000 they I got for dirt cheap. Mint condition body but exploded magnets. The dealership they last owner went to disassemble his engine, handed it to him and in a box and said good luck buddy!
And for $400.00 usd it came home with me.
So my question is, seeing
Bore / stroke98.0 mm × 66.0 mm
how the bore and stroke are the same as the TL , have you or anyone you know try to use the TL rotor or use it’s crankshaft and it’s rotor to get away from the exposed magnets?
And bonus question, will any of the gsxr slipper clutches work in a SV ? Possibly the early 600’s

Cheers

Alaska SV
Yes, bore and stroke are the same as the TL1000

TL mag rotor will not work on an SV.

2014 and up DL1000A slip/assist clutches will bolt in.

-ms
 

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Sorry to bring this up again but im trying to get my ducks lined up for doing some engine work on my 03 sv1ks. Im looking at options for getting a set of 2014 dl cylinders and which pistons to use as well as ordering the parts for the dl slipper clutch. I was wondering if i could confirm the following.
  • 2014 dl1k cylinders and stock pistons can be used on the sv1k, ie rods and head?
  • If changing pistons which is recommended for pump fuel? (Highest i can get is 98 RON)
  • Use an SV base gasket and DL head gasket?
  • Stock cam chain and gears will work.
  • Do you need to do head work, larger valves?
  • expected final outputs?
Thanks in advance.
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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5,238 Posts
Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Sorry to bring this up again but im trying to get my ducks lined up for doing some engine work on my 03 sv1ks. Im looking at options for getting a set of 2014 dl cylinders and which pistons to use as well as ordering the parts for the dl slipper clutch. I was wondering if i could confirm the following.
  • 2014 dl1k cylinders and stock pistons can be used on the sv1k, ie rods and head?
  • If changing pistons which is recommended for pump fuel? (Highest i can get is 98 RON)
  • Use an SV base gasket and DL head gasket?
  • Stock cam chain and gears will work.
  • Do you need to do head work, larger valves?
  • expected final outputs?
Thanks in advance.
Yes. 14 and up DL1000 cylinders and pistons go in without issue.

You can mill heads and deck and actually be pretty close to limit of 98RON.

I typically use SV base gaskets and the 31J DL1000 head gaskets.

No need to change gears or chains.

Stock heads are decent, but do work really well after porting. I have built +4 and +5mm intake valve heads. They flow huge, but at that point really need bigger cams. A good porting of the stock heads will work great.

You likely want to look at cam timing also.

-ms
 

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Yes. 14 and up DL1000 cylinders and pistons go in without issue.

You can mill heads and deck and actually be pretty close to limit of 98RON.

I typically use SV base gaskets and the 31J DL1000 head gaskets.

No need to change gears or chains.

Stock heads are decent, but do work really well after porting. I have built +4 and +5mm intake valve heads. They flow huge, but at that point really need bigger cams. A good porting of the stock heads will work great.

You likely want to look at cam timing also.

-ms
Thanks for the reply.
Am finding it difficult to locate DL parts not new from suzuki but there is a bike being wrecked about 2.5 hours away with about 55,xxx miles on it so im going to message the guy and ask if he will separate the motor.
Ill see if there is anyone locally who can port the heads and mill them slightly without going crazy on the milling, would the standard or higher comp TL pistons be used? and how much should be taken off of the head? I can get the advancing kit for the timing 4 degrees #whileImInThere
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Thanks for the reply.
Am finding it difficult to locate DL parts not new from suzuki but there is a bike being wrecked about 2.5 hours away with about 55,xxx miles on it so im going to message the guy and ask if he will separate the motor.
Ill see if there is anyone locally who can port the heads and mill them slightly without going crazy on the milling, would the standard or higher comp TL pistons be used? and how much should be taken off of the head? I can get the advancing kit for the timing 4 degrees #whileImInThere
Higher compression 100mm pistons can be used. You need to measure everything up and keep the compression where you are comfortable.

You need to calculate how much head and deck to mill based on piston being used, total compression, cam timing, piston to valve clearance etc. as deck and head get milled, watch your cam timing offset and mitigate if necessary with resetting via the cam timing technique I published here, or go with adjustable gear kits.

Be careful with adding in too much ignition advance. I typically see with a relatively mild build that the advance helps mid range, but can kill top end.

-ms
 

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Higher compression 100mm pistons can be used. You need to measure everything up and keep the compression where you are comfortable.

You need to calculate how much head and deck to mill based on piston being used, total compression, cam timing, piston to valve clearance etc. as deck and head get milled, watch your cam timing offset and mitigate if necessary with resetting via the cam timing technique I published here, or go with adjustable gear kits.

Be careful with adding in too much ignition advance. I typically see with a relatively mild build that the advance helps mid range, but can kill top end.

-ms
Appreciate the reply, ill chat to a local shop and see if its feasible to get the head work done if not ill stick to stock DL gear to get it running then go from there. As always all the advice and info is much appreciated :) not many shops where am that wll do this sort of work outside of harleys it seems.
 
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