wrote here that I know of one of vstrom for 275 euros with autotune if you are interested, I can help you in the management
Perhaps this could help you in the construction of your 2in1 manifold, it is for DL 1000 von so it would not be very difficult to fit it with some modifications and it has a low cost. It won't save you from welding but will help tremendously with curves.My goal is to get close to around 120 rwhp
Next project might be custom 2-1 exhaust header (inspired by M4 header design) and use stock exhaust can.
Does it say that the two are the same length? that is good. About the forum I was disgusted but it will be that I am outdated, maybe if I can understand it I like it, we will seeSorry to hear that you might be leaving forum. Manifolds are both 660mm in lenght from cylinder to collector, so hopefully i dont need a crossover pipe.
|Bore / stroke||98.0 mm × 66.0 mm|
Yes, bore and stroke are the same as the TL1000Awesome posting I’ve been reading. I have a 06 SV 1000 they I got for dirt cheap. Mint condition body but exploded magnets. The dealership they last owner went to disassemble his engine, handed it to him and in a box and said good luck buddy!
And for $400.00 usd it came home with me.
So my question is, seeing
how the bore and stroke are the same as the TL , have you or anyone you know try to use the TL rotor or use it’s crankshaft and it’s rotor to get away from the exposed magnets?
Bore / stroke 98.0 mm × 66.0 mm
And bonus question, will any of the gsxr slipper clutches work in a SV ? Possibly the early 600’s
Yes. 14 and up DL1000 cylinders and pistons go in without issue.Sorry to bring this up again but im trying to get my ducks lined up for doing some engine work on my 03 sv1ks. Im looking at options for getting a set of 2014 dl cylinders and which pistons to use as well as ordering the parts for the dl slipper clutch. I was wondering if i could confirm the following.
Thanks in advance.
- 2014 dl1k cylinders and stock pistons can be used on the sv1k, ie rods and head?
- If changing pistons which is recommended for pump fuel? (Highest i can get is 98 RON)
- Use an SV base gasket and DL head gasket?
- Stock cam chain and gears will work.
- Do you need to do head work, larger valves?
- expected final outputs?
Thanks for the reply.Yes. 14 and up DL1000 cylinders and pistons go in without issue.
You can mill heads and deck and actually be pretty close to limit of 98RON.
I typically use SV base gaskets and the 31J DL1000 head gaskets.
No need to change gears or chains.
Stock heads are decent, but do work really well after porting. I have built +4 and +5mm intake valve heads. They flow huge, but at that point really need bigger cams. A good porting of the stock heads will work great.
You likely want to look at cam timing also.
Higher compression 100mm pistons can be used. You need to measure everything up and keep the compression where you are comfortable.Thanks for the reply.
Am finding it difficult to locate DL parts not new from suzuki but there is a bike being wrecked about 2.5 hours away with about 55,xxx miles on it so im going to message the guy and ask if he will separate the motor.
Ill see if there is anyone locally who can port the heads and mill them slightly without going crazy on the milling, would the standard or higher comp TL pistons be used? and how much should be taken off of the head? I can get the advancing kit for the timing 4 degrees #whileImInThere
Appreciate the reply, ill chat to a local shop and see if its feasible to get the head work done if not ill stick to stock DL gear to get it running then go from there. As always all the advice and info is much appreciated not many shops where am that wll do this sort of work outside of harleys it seems.Higher compression 100mm pistons can be used. You need to measure everything up and keep the compression where you are comfortable.
You need to calculate how much head and deck to mill based on piston being used, total compression, cam timing, piston to valve clearance etc. as deck and head get milled, watch your cam timing offset and mitigate if necessary with resetting via the cam timing technique I published here, or go with adjustable gear kits.
Be careful with adding in too much ignition advance. I typically see with a relatively mild build that the advance helps mid range, but can kill top end.