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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an SV1000 which I bought earlier this year and I'm just trying to find some opinions on whether it is running as well as it should.

I must admit I'm a bit underwhelmed with the power of the bike mainly between about 2500-3500 RPM, in this range the engine feels like it is working hard but doesn't seem to give much in the way of power. I'm not really expecting this bike to be a fire breathing monster and that's not really what I want (that's why I bought this rather than an IL4) but it does seem that the behaviour in this part of the RPM range is not in keeping with higher RPM and I'd just expect a V twin to be more useful at low RPM. I don't remember anything similar with an SV650 I had a good few years ago but that could be due to rose tinted hindsight!

I know that given the RPM range this may sound like a clutch chudder problem but it is not that. When I first got the bike it did have a chudder issue, and the symptom was mainly in this range, but I've since replaced the clutch basket with a new item and it is much improved.

Unfortunately I don't have any other bike to compare this to so what I'm looking for is impressions of whether this is typical of the SV1000 or specific to mind indicating that there could be an issue. If it is typical I can live with it (it's not that bad) but if it should be better then I'd like to improve it.

Just for background, the bike is a late 2005 'S' model with black frame hence the later generation, it has just over 26,000 miles on the clock and seems to have been well looked after (decent service history), I've only owned for a few months. It has non-standard end cans and I believe a 'snorkle' may have been removed from the airbox is there is just a letter-box type of opening on the front. Don't know if either of these mod's could cause this issue or what I can do to offset that if so.
I unfortunately have not got around to checking throttle balance or TPS yet, hopefully can do this at the weekend.
 

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In that rpm range the SV1000 is hella more torquey than a 650. But my experience is with the carbed 650. My 1000 is also a lot lighter than a normal S with super free flow a hacked up exhaust in addition to the fairing removal and super light twin 4" dominator headlights. So its under 1st edition SV650S in weight, like well under, not to mention I've also dropped 80lb off my butt, so effectively 100lb loss total. You've seen 400lb guy put titanium bolts on the bike to make it lighter right ??? Well I did the opposite. Tossed a bunch of crap I didn't need/like off the bike along with the same off me.

The Sv1K is vastly more power especially mid range IMHO. It loses to a GSXR600 from the same years but not in torque especially at 2500-3K. Top speed and WFO power yes. But 600's rev to 16K.
 

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У меня есть SV1000, который я купил в начале этого года, и я просто пытаюсь найти некоторые мнения о том, работает ли он так хорошо, как должен.

Я должен признать, что я немного недоволен мощностью велосипеда в основном между 2500-3500 оборотами в минуту, в этом диапазоне двигатель чувствует, что он усердно работает, но, похоже, не дает много мощности. Я на самом деле не ожидаю, что этот мотоцикл будет огнедышащим монстром, и это не совсем то, что я хочу (вот почему я купил его, а не IL4), но похоже, что поведение в этой части диапазона RPM не соответствует более высоким оборотам, и я просто ожидаю, что V-образный близнец будет более полезным на низких оборотах. Я не помню ничего подобного с SV650, который у меня был несколько лет назад, но это может быть связано с розовым оттенком задним числом!

Я знаю, что, учитывая диапазон оборотов, это может звучать как проблема сцепления, но это не так. Когда я впервые получил велосипед, у него была проблема с чуддером, и симптом был в основном в этом диапазоне, но с тех пор я заменил корзину сцепления новым предметом, и она значительно улучшилась.

К сожалению, у меня нет другого велосипеда, чтобы сравнить это, поэтому я ищу впечатления о том, является ли это типичным для SV1000 или специфическим для ума, указывающим на то, что может быть проблема. Если это типично, я могу жить с этим (это не так уж плохо), но если это должно быть лучше, то я хотел бы улучшить его.

Просто для фона, велосипед является моделью конца 2005 года «S» с черной рамой, следовательно, более позднего поколения, он имеет чуть более 26 000 миль на часах и, похоже, хорошо ухаживал (приличная история обслуживания), я владел только в течение нескольких месяцев. У него есть нестандартные концевые банки, и я полагаю, что «трубка», возможно, была удалена из аэробокса, если на передней панели есть только отверстие типа почтового ящика. Не знаю, может ли какой-либо из этих модов вызвать эту проблему или что я могу сделать, чтобы компенсировать это, если это так.
Я, к сожалению, еще не успел проверить баланс дроссельной заслонки или TPS, надеюсь, смогу сделать это в выходные.
[/ЦИТАТА]вы уатсрФи
I have an SV1000 which I bought earlier this year and I'm just trying to find some opinions on whether it is running as well as it should.

I must admit I'm a bit underwhelmed with the power of the bike mainly between about 2500-3500 RPM, in this range the engine feels like it is working hard but doesn't seem to give much in the way of power. I'm not really expecting this bike to be a fire breathing monster and that's not really what I want (that's why I bought this rather than an IL4) but it does seem that the behaviour in this part of the RPM range is not in keeping with higher RPM and I'd just expect a V twin to be more useful at low RPM. I don't remember anything similar with an SV650 I had a good few years ago but that could be due to rose tinted hindsight!

I know that given the RPM range this may sound like a clutch chudder problem but it is not that. When I first got the bike it did have a chudder issue, and the symptom was mainly in this range, but I've since replaced the clutch basket with a new item and it is much improved.

Unfortunately I don't have any other bike to compare this to so what I'm looking for is impressions of whether this is typical of the SV1000 or specific to mind indicating that there could be an issue. If it is typical I can live with it (it's not that bad) but if it should be better then I'd like to improve it.

Just for background, the bike is a late 2005 'S' model with black frame hence the later generation, it has just over 26,000 miles on the clock and seems to have been well looked after (decent service history), I've only owned for a few months. It has non-standard end cans and I believe a 'snorkle' may have been removed from the airbox is there is just a letter-box type of opening on the front. Don't know if either of these mod's could cause this issue or what I can do to offset that if so.
I unfortunately have not got around to checking throttle balance or TPS yet, hopefully can do this at the weekend.
I have a similar problem. First of all I was chacked TPS sensor. It was configured incorrectly. But after the adjustment it got even worse, so I think to return it back)) I think we need dyno...
 

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My TPS is off too but that dont prevent it from ripping. Maybe depends on how much its off.
BTW the exhaust has a huge part in overall power, but not in that rev range, stock exhausts do better till you get closer to 6K or so, so that's another strike against mine. Not a positive like I intended before.
 

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Not a fan of he snorkel removal....but, it is probably going to have a bigger effect on higher airflows than the rane you are looking at.

First, throttle balance, then TPS...... set the -C00 dash line in the middle at 1400rpm....thn slowly increase revs, and the line should jump to the top around 1750....seems to be the best spot.
Then set the STPS (secondary TPS) by winding the secondary butterfly motor until the butterflies are vertical...... check OHMs between the black and yellow wires. Should be 4.38ohms
Do this by disconnecting the connector to the STPS.....no need to have engine running or ignition on for this
 
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KNEE DRAGGER
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My TPS is off too but that dont prevent it from ripping. Maybe depends on how much its off.
BTW the exhaust has a huge part in overall power, but not in that rev range, stock exhausts do better till you get closer to 6K or so, so that's another strike against mine. Not a positive like I intended before.
Aftermarket exhaust with proper mapping and the bike should pick up more bottom end also.

-ms
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks all.

A good few votes for the TPS, I have this on my to-do list, just not got around to yet and I'll also check out the throttle balance. I have the airbox off at the moment anyhow while I'm changing the 'bars over so a good time to do those jobs, can also check out the secondary throttle while I'm about it.
I must admit I'm not holding out too much hope for a massive difference via the TPS, not for this issue at least, but then I'm been wrong before!


I've also never found a change of end can(s) to make too much difference on a 4 stroke, usually you just don't get any benefit until you re-map/jet but as I say, I've been wrong before.
Not sure what the options are for re-mapping here in the UK. Are there any software tools available to communicate with the bikes ECU?
I'll keep my eyes open for a set of standard pipes to try out, there should be plenty about as everyone seems to change them but I don't really want to spend any more money on this bike
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Not a fan of he snorkel removal....but, it is probably going to have a bigger effect on higher airflows than the rane you are looking at.
Same here, never really seen the point myself, just seems to increase noise and I'm not that keen on induction noise anyhow. When one becomes available I'll get it back on.

First, throttle balance, then TPS...... set the -C00 dash line in the middle at 1400rpm....thn slowly increase revs, and the line should jump to the top around 1750....seems to be the best spot.
Then set the STPS (secondary TPS) by winding the secondary butterfly motor until the butterflies are vertical...... check OHMs between the black and yellow wires. Should be 4.38ohms
Do this by disconnecting the connector to the STPS.....no need to have engine running or ignition on for this
Good advice, I'm hoping to check that lot this weekend.
 

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Aftermarket exhaust with proper mapping and the bike should pick up more bottom end also.

-ms
Nothing proper about any thing on mine. Bought 12yrs ago at an equipment auction after a bonehead dropeed a load of bricks off a fork lift or something breaking everything on top. Tank, gone, fairing, seat frame, somehow gauge and seat survived with minimal damage. No title, no way to get one etc etc etc. 970 miles showing on the ODO.
I cored the exhaust back then, and welded a perf pipe in the end cap and put it in that gaping hole. It ran great. Then a month ago I cut the can 4" short and welded it back together. So now my perf pipe hits the inner baffle. So its gonna have to come out at some point. For now its got inner baffle and the 4" long 2" dia smooth pipe that ends 1" off center with the gaping hole in the end like a weird Tasmania shaped hole between the 3 thread bosses. Till I changed the throttle cables the TPS light wasn't on. Now its in the lower position, doesn't seem to matter, it sounds hard edged and nasty and rips. I never touched the efi mapping either. This exhaust is worth a picture. I love the looks, but sound could be better, that perf pipe needs to go back in.
PS: I know I have got the ocassional GS500 having owned 17 of them that made a lot more power than the others ? This could be one of those. My 2nd GS was way more powerful than my first. I thought it had 1000 miles vs the other ones 10K. But it also vibrated more. I didn't learn to do a carb synch till much much later so I lived with it. The 5K miles I put on that one, it seemed to gain power. I installed a can, jetted it to the spot, but the jump wasn't just from those 2. It seemed to gain from there on too with use. I may also have been letting it rev. Then several years went by and a friend of mine bought a gs from my neighborhood, it had rotor hittng the stator that took him 3 tries to find and fix cos that case was bent just a touch, but once done and jetted and piped, same thing, hella more power than other GS'es. I put an 04 fairing set on it. And later he sold it to someone who had had quite a few GS'es and that guy also felt the same thing with that bike. Weird thing was that bike was more revvy and more top speed while my 2nd bike was torquey. So manufacturing tolerances being what they were - I'd guess one had a few cc lesser head volume while the other one may have had a bit cleaner port castings or looser bearings etc.
PPS: That friend's 89 GS was also one of the cleanest frames I had ever seen. My 2nd one a 90 was the worst. And my current ride a 95 was the cleanest frame I had ever seen. Too bad I used it as my bracket fabrication model for a few years scratching up that thing, then took it apart and had my welder weld all the open "water collection spots" shut and powdercoated it. Which is how it stands today 12 or so yrs after, holding up well, but it is powdercoat, not factory paint. Those fools at the factory more often than not missed a spot (like a whole steering neck) where it was just a bit of static electricity that gave it any paint. If you had one of these bikes - good luck keeping it from rusting.
 

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Thought I'd post pics of the cut exhaust cans.
The left one was cut wrong and re-welded and it still seems to fit fine and not leak, I'll be adding an extra gasket when I take it off to drill that baffle and get that pipe out.
Tire Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Synthetic rubber

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Automotive lighting Vehicle
Tire Wheel Land vehicle Crankset Automotive tire
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread
 

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Unless you want to put a PC on it and have it mapped, you'd be ahead to find an original snorkel to put in it. Removing the snorkel and changing back pressure with aftmkt cans while running the O2 sensor is just not a good idea. An option is to unplug the O2 and put a resistor across the heater wires so the ecu doesn't fault. It will run the default fuel map, which will probably be better performance wise. Something you could try. If it doesn't help, reverse things back.

Mine has Yosh cans and opened up air box, and a PC. With various maps it was just ok. After getting it mapped on a DJ Tuning link dyno, it was much stronger low to midrange, top end stayed about the same.

Checking the tpms and throttle sync needs to be done regardless - may or may not help but you need to know they are right.
 

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I wanted to take off the airbox top and I even cut the hump out of a copper tank and weld in a flat bottom for extra capacity because at one time I fancied doing long long commutes. Glad I didn't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just an update on this.

I was in the middle of modifying my handlebars when I first posted, swapping to yoke mounted bars. As this required the tank and airbox off I decided to check out the throttle body balance and TPS setting while I was at it.

The TPS was set correctly so no issues there but the throttle body balance was slightly out so I tweaked it. It was only a small difference on the gauges and a small tweak of the adjustment screw but it's certainly made a difference. I'm not saying it's perfect, I still think it is a bit underwhelming on power but it doesn't feel as flat in the 3000RPM area.
In fact the bike feels a whole lot better all round now, the riding position is much more to my taste wtih the higher, more rearward bars and I feel like the clutch and brakes feel better after a fluid change and bleed too.

I will look at getting the snorke replaced as soon as I find one but the exhausts will be staying, even they sound nicer now the inlets are balanced.

Thanks for all the replied BTW
 

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The TPS was set correctly so no issues there but the throttle body balance was slightly out so I tweaked it. It was only a small difference on the gauges and a small tweak of the adjustment screw but it's certainly made a difference. I'm not saying it's perfect, I still think it is a bit underwhelming on power but it doesn't feel as flat in the 3000RPM area.
Did you do the STPS setting as well ? No need for engine running.... just wind the actuator motor open by hand till the butterfiles are open completely and unplug the STPS and check ohm's between black and yellow wires.... 4.38ohm is the target..... adjsut to suit.....if you cant get there, by a reasonable figure.....then its toast.....possibly....i rescued one by spraying it first with brake clean, then after
allowing it to dry, a dash of WD.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Did you do the STPS setting as well ? No need for engine running.... just wind the actuator motor open by hand till the butterfiles are open completely and unplug the STPS and check ohm's between black and yellow wires.... 4.38ohm is the target..... adjsut to suit.....if you cant get there, by a reasonable figure.....then its toast.....possibly....i rescued one by spraying it first with brake clean, then after
allowing it to dry, a dash of WD.....
I didn't do that, thanks for the information. I'll have a look next time I get some "quality time" available. Must admit I did think after that I should re-check the TPS as I balanced the TBs after this and found today that I had to wind the idle down a bit after a decent ride, this may have shifted the positon of the throttle spindles and hence altered the TPS reading. I'm assuming this system uses throttle plate posiiton to control idle rather than a bypass system but I've not had chance to "explore" it yet.

STPS was definitely shifting around though, I did see that.
 

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You need to do the balance, then the TPS...... set the idle, and then see how all settles.... If yuo set the TPS, then balance, the TPS will go out of wack....

The STPS butterflies will shift aorund, thats normal.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You need to do the balance, then the TPS...... set the idle, and then see how all settles.... If yuo set the TPS, then balance, the TPS will go out of wack....

The STPS butterflies will shift aorund, thats normal.....

Agreed, but I think the TPS needs to be the last link in the chain, after setting idle speed as I'd expect the throttle position to change. It's not a great problem though as it only needs putting into dealer mode.
 

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these bikes are short stroke machines with high redlines compared to other twins, they are not stump pullers at low rpm. they pull well from 3500rpm and up. get a fuel controller from doebeck (dale at holeshot.com will give you settings if you buy from him) they are plug n play, no laptop maps they are load based and only work when extra fuel is called for...which work excellent with no stumble or fueling problems. they are 90 degree twins like a ducati not a harley.
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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these bikes are short stroke machines with high redlines compared to other twins, they are not stump pullers at low rpm. they pull well from 3500rpm and up. get a fuel controller from doebeck (dale at holeshot.com will give you settings if you buy from him) they are plug n play, no laptop maps they are load based and only work when extra fuel is called for...which work excellent with no stumble or fueling problems. they are 90 degree twins like a ducati not a harley.
The Doebeck controllers only allow one to enrichen fuel mixtures. SVs often need to leaned out significantly in certain regions of the mapping.

-MS
 
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