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· Waiting to go for a boat ride
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Those are repackable... Are you repacking them with grease every so often?

I have had mine out to P/C the wheels and repacked them then.

Did they replace all three?


Cheers
 

· Big teeth-what big teeth?
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2,036 Posts
Interesting - I have done 26,000 miles and am still on the stock bearings. Saying that I've probably just jinxed myself and they will seize on the way home from work... :rofl:
 

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interesting, I never thought that's a wear item.
how about those ceramics bearing? are they worth the trouble to change them? i read articles from magazine about how it reduces friction and some motorcycle net up to 4rwhp, which is insane.
 
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· Waiting to go for a boat ride
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13,307 Posts
gunluvS14 said:
interesting, I never thought that's a wear item.
how about those ceramics bearing? are they worth the trouble to change them? i read articles from magazine about how it reduces friction and some motorcycle net up to 4rwhp, which is insane.
Have you priced those things???

Only TLRman has the dosh for that...:buggerd:
 

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1,018 Posts
idk, how about shine some light on me and tell us how much they cost? i really have no idea.
 

· Registered
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17,500+ miles on the original bearings and they seem fine. I take care to grease them up well when I have the rear wheel off though... and I make sure the dust covers are clean and then lightly greased too.
 

· Waiting to go for a boat ride
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13,307 Posts
gunluvS14 said:
idk, how about shine some light on me and tell us how much they cost? i really have no idea.
Here is the first one I found...

<TABLE><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=right>
</TD><TD vAlign=top colSpan=2><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top noWrap>Buell Firebolt Ceramic Bearing Wheel Kit Item #: 20-1399X2</TD><TD vAlign=top noWrap align=right> $599.95 </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>:surprise:
 

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Do you need any special tools to repack the wheel bearings. I assume you need to at least remove the dust seals so you can get the new grease in but don't know for sure. The only stock bearing I have on my SV is the one pressed into the cush drive. I try to force new grease into it without removing the dust seal cuz I really don't know how the seal comes off and goes back on so I was afraid to remove it. Be great if someone could post a how to on proper repacking of the wheel bearings.
 

· Waiting to go for a boat ride
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13,307 Posts
I put a dolop(sp?) of grease in my hand and smash the bearing into the grease and rotate and smash and rotate and smash until I have gone all the way around the bearing. The do make bearing repackers for open bearings and it presses the grease throught the one side and squirts out the other side but only for the open bearings. The hand method has always worked well for me though.;)
 

· Back to standard...
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1,583 Posts
After 8000m sprocket bearing failed and got some play, probably due to previous owner riding with kinked chain. Replaced for totaly sealed one as stock bearings are not of a sealed type.
 

· XLR8
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3,199 Posts
You can get non-stock bearing sets from any bearing distrubutor. They will be better quality and cheaper than stock. You can get them with seals on both sides. Timkin is a common brand. I couldn't find the sizes in the shop manual, they should be marked on the bearing sets.
The ceramics are not worth the money and are designed for higher rpm/load applications. Just check http://www.yellowpages.com/ for a distributor near you.
 

· Waiting to go for a boat ride
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13,307 Posts
My brother is now powder coating his wheels and just bought new sealed bearings for them. I guess I don't understand why they don't put them in at the factory? Is it a $$ savings or another reason like the sealed ones don't last as long because the grease bakes out of them with high mileage???

I guess he will be the guinee (SP?) pig.:whistle:
 

· Back to standard...
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Hey spankme. Where the hell do you get those avatars from?
 

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steering, stem, bearings, tapered, notched,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/caffeineracer/

During hard braking the steering stem stretches and the balls roll up the bearing races.
Since the bearing doesn't continue to rotate in the same direction the balls are always in the same position on the race during braking. After a while the ball rolls a groove/dent into the race and your steering can become notched in the straight ahead position. It helps to keep your steering bearings preloaded and to rotate the ball cage to a new wear area when you grease the bearings. But those things didn't help me much, these worn out bearings only have 19,000 miles on them.
This is where tapered bearings come in, they can't roll up the race and have a much larger contact area to spread the load over.
I've never had to replace tapered steering stem bearings.

(the following is to the best of my knowledge, have not recieved bearings yet)
steering stem tapered bearings
Allballs part# 22-1003
same as GSX1300 99-06

~Jeffers
 
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