[GuyGraham]

I just replaced my bearings and the sprocket carrier bearing is a 62/32 2RS (32x65x17).

But I a little bit confused about the wheel bearing seal - the Suzuki part number is '09284-37001' and this part number is used by a number of Suzuki bikes. Looking at Ronayers, the K3 fiche doesn't tell the seal dimensions, but the K6 fiche does (it's the same part number) - 38X58X7.

The confusing part is that the bearing outer diameter is 52mm and that the spacer (part no. 64741-35F00) OD is 37mm.

How can a seal with OD of 58 mm fit into the same space as a 52mm bearing?

And shouldn't the spacer fit snuggly into seal? OD of the spacer is 37mm, ID of the seal is (supposed to be) 38mm - that would be a 0.5 mm gap.

The thickness is also confusing - the remains of my old seal (which I really demolished pulling it out) seem to be 8mm thick...

Has anyone actually measured a new seal? I guess Ronayers (or Suzuki) got it wrong on the K6 fiche...

D.

fiche is wrong - I'd already discovered this


this is correct

Front Wheel 6205
Front Wheel Seals 32 x 52 x 7
Rear Wheel 60/28
Rear Wheel Seal 37 x 52 x 8 (microfiche is wrong)
Sprocket Carrier 60/32
Sprocket carrier Seal 39 x 65 x 7

 

[nigel]

The main problem is that the bearings are not up to the load produced by the sv they were originally fitted to the gsxr600 and the sv has much more torque. As they are so cheap and easy to fit I suggest that everyone change them every 10k-15k as a matter of course because it is not a question of if they will break up but when they will break up and it is sods law that they will let go at the most inconvenient time leaving you in the sh1t. The alloy spacers and seals have nothing to do with it, all the spacers and seals that I have seen have been in perfect nick, it is just down to badly specced bearings.

 

[danci1973]

fiche is wrong - I'd already discovered this


this is correct

Front Wheel 6205
Front Wheel Seals 32 x 52 x 7
Rear Wheel 60/28
Rear Wheel Seal 37 x 52 x 8 (microfiche is wrong)
Sprocket Carrier 60/32
Sprocket carrier Seal 39 x 65 x 7

I'm sure the sprocket carrier bearing is 62/32 - I have just fitted one.

But thanks for clearing the seal confusion.

The main problem is that the bearings are not up to the load produced by the sv they were originally fitted to the gsxr600 and the sv has much more torque. As they are so cheap and easy to fit I suggest that everyone change them every 10k-15k as a matter of course because it is not a question of if they will break up but when they will break up and it is sods law that they will let go at the most inconvenient time leaving you in the sh1t. The alloy spacers and seals have nothing to do with it, all the spacers and seals that I have seen have been in perfect nick, it is just down to badly specced bearings.

These bearings -the exact same Suzuki part number (09262-28043) - are also fitted to the GSX-R1000 K1-K8 and the Hayabusa, all of which produce more torque then the SV.

On my bike they lasted for 82000km and I replaced them just for the peace of mind, not because they went bad.

D.

 

[Bayouboy]

...I'm sure the sprocket carrier bearing is 62/32 - I have just fitted one. ...D.

+1

I replaced mine a while ago with a double sealed KOYO bearing (part number 62/322RSC3).

 

[D.T.]

I removed the rear wheel off of my Yamaha today and de-glazed the hub and drum brakes. They were squealing. Whilst I was in there I found the bearings were a bit rough, so I decided to buy 2 new ones (6203) at Grainger. $8.71 each. Good deal I thought. Then I looked in my Dennis Kirk catalog. All 3 bearings and 2 new seals for $21.99 (Moose). Grainger wants $19 just for the sprocket carrier bearing (6304). WTH.

Then I looked for the SV and All Balls makes kits also for the 1000. $19 for the front and $41 for the rear wheel.

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produ...TLA0WTKSM4VMDK0NCIV0?store=&skuId=122376&mmy=

Just thought I'd share. Gotta shop around ya know. Usually Dennis Kirk is expensive as hell.

EDIT: I just found the 6304 bearing for $14.49. Cheap! Know where? OEM Yamaha. WTH once again.

EDIT: All balls has fork seals and steering head bearings too! Cheap!

http://www.goallballs.com/Product_lookup_results_shop.asp

 

[rabidhedgehog]

Well, it's my turn to replace bearings...

Last Friday I noticed the rear wheel felt a little... crunchy. Pulled wheel and found right side bearing was shot. Used hammer and punch to remove. It came out in 3 pieces - outer race fractured. Thankfully it didn't seize. :sweatdrop:

Set off to find bearings but ending up ordering All-Ballz kit. Outer seal in kit is 9mm thick, not stock 7mm, and it won't stay in. Reused old seal while I find a new one. Ordered front kit too since I'll be replacing tire in few weeks.

Guess I shouldn't complain too loudly - stock bearings lasted 81,000 miles and didn't seize. It could have been worse...

 

[isengajo]

81000 Miles? Wow! nice!

 

[Matt Chappell]

I've tried searching on the site, but to no avail, so here's my bearing question:
Has anyone heard of 'Slinky Glide' bearings. They are being advertised on the 'Wemoto' site.
I may be in need of rear linkage bearings soon and I'm looking for decent quality bearings for less than 'stealer' prices. Any thoughts?

 

[daytonatrans]

Hi I am new here and started a thread last night about my problem with bearings on my rear wheel, I have changed 4 bearings in 400 miles and its the sprocket side main wheel bearing that keeps doing itself in. Bearings were expensive and told they were very good the bearings I removed were rubber sided and the ones I replaced were steel on both sides, can anyone tell me whats going on that the same bearing after 200 miles keeps doing its self in. suzuki sv1000 2003 changed all dust seals and only riding on dry road and zero washing with any kind of hose so it is not water problems

 

[bioboy]

Hi I am new here and started a thread last night about my problem with bearings on my rear wheel, I have changed 4 bearings in 400 miles and its the sprocket side main wheel bearing that keeps doing itself in. Bearings were expensive and told they were very good the bearings I removed were rubber sided and the ones I replaced were steel on both sides, can anyone tell me whats going on that the same bearing after 200 miles keeps doing its self in. suzuki sv1000 2003 changed all dust seals and only riding on dry road and zero washing with any kind of hose so it is not water problems

How is your cush drive, does everything seem nice and tight when you move the spocket in relation to the wheel. Have you checked the chain alignment with a laser or other similar device, the alignment marks stamped on the swingarm can be out. Are you damaging the bearings when knocking them home, make sure you have something (a suitably sized socket) that fits nicely on the outer race. Are the bearing seats nice and clean with no bits of crap that may make the bearing sit at a slight angle.

Something must be seriously out of alignment for the bearing to only last 200 miles or the bearings are being damaged whilst fitting.

Good luck finding your problem.

 

[sephrin]

mine are still stock from factory at 46,800 miles. no steering issues at all.

 

[peterrose]

As stated elsewhere on here, my rear wheel brake side bearing has just gone again, first time at 30,000 miles, just theone bearing although changhed all 3 to be safe.

and now again, same bearing, brake side, at 50,000 miles.

Think maybe i could be over tightening the rear axle nut, only thing I can think of but why have no other bikes i've owned in 37 years of riding had this problem ?

the bearing was VERY WELL greased when I went to remove what was left of it, but it had again broken up big time.

60 by 28 by 12mm double sided seal ones to replace them with.

 

[Sancho Panza]

When I worked in a bike shop and we ran out of Kawasaki bearings we used Honda bearings of the same size. Their single and double shielded bearings used a steel shield, obviously with a rubber seal, and were good quality, if a bit pricier than the Kawasaki items. I'm not sure if Honda do them in our size, but if they do, it might be worth trying them.

 

[falconbobb]

i carried in a front wheel to have tire changed at cycle gear and discovered when they put it on the wheel balancer that they cranked down the center spindle holdy thingy on the balancer and pushed my bearings against the center collar so tight that they would not turn. i found it by luck , thought id grease the bearings at the same time (only 2000 miles on the bike then )
i had to take a drift punch and drive the collar from the inside to push one of the bearings outward so the collar was free to move

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

 

[Chainsaw Willie!]

Think maybe i could be over tightening the rear axle nut, only thing I can think of but why have no other bikes i've owned in 37 years of riding had this problem ?

How would over-torquing a motorcycle axle bolt take out the bearing?
The load of the axle bolt compression should only go into the center of the bearing and then into the spacer in the middle of the wheel. You would have to compress the center spacer to side-load the bearing. How strong are you? Did you install a cardboard toilet paper roll for a center spacer? The threads on the nut would damage long before compressing this solid metal tube.

If the bearing were not seated properly (not fully in position - not deep enough) then the inner bearing and the spacer would not mate-up, THEN the axle tension could side load the center of the bearing. That center spacer should not be able to float around easily if everything is correct and the bearings are seated.

I would suspect:
Incorrect hardware stack - parts loaded on axle in wrong order, left/right outer spacers swapped...
Bearing not completely seated by incomplete installation.
Bearing not completely seated due to contaminant in cup.
Bearing not completely seated due to damaged mating surface.
Center wheel spacer mating surfaces were damaged during catastrophic failure of of first set of bearings.

If I had repeated early wheel bearing failures I would assume it was not wheel bearing quality.

It is more likely:
an error in the method of removing the old bearings causing damage to the wheel cups or spacers.
An error in method of installation of the new bearings.
Damage to the wheel or re-used parts from the original bearing failure.

That one fella a few posts back having bearing failures at less than a 400 mile interval... I would suspect he completely failed to install the center spacer! Something is seriously wrong there. I really doubt you can buy bearings that bad.

If the problem, keeps repeating you should:
1. Make sure the wheel/bearing mating surfaces are clean and undamaged.
2. Replace ALL the parts that could possibly be damaged or out of tolerance, including all new spacers.
3. Verify you have the correct hardware stack.
4. RTFM

 

[Chainsaw Willie!]

Another thing that would kill 'em early is installing them with hammer blows that hit anything other than the very outer shell of the bearing. Even using an old bearing as a drift (which ya might think is the perfect sized tool) will transfer the force of a poorly aimed smack to the center of the bearing and damage it. Ya gotta be very careful, tapping lightly but rapidly, all around the circle so it goes in evenly instead of getting jammed at an angle, using some tool that doesn't transfer force anywhere but the outer perimeter.

 

[peterrose]

Well i hear what your saying william, we will triple check everything this time taking it all very slowly.

yes when the first bearing went it made a nice mess of things but I spent a long time cleaning out all burrs, lumps, etc, Nigel saw it, we fitted the new ones carefully using big sockets to evenly tap them in so no force went on the inner etc.

Interesting to note, the old ones we put in last weekend had done 30,000 miles, been hammer out of daves wheel, hammered into mine, taken out again cos we put a front wheel one in accidently, it was dark. and so had to be hammer out then we missed the cetral spacer so had to be hammered out and re fitted with central spacer ooor was it an old loo roll ? can't remember because by then we were knckered, stressed, drunk and it wa even darker so we couldn't see.

BUT, I put bike on the paddock stand today and spun the rear wheel, it was as smooth as silk, even after last weekends 500 mile run including hitting 140 ( true ) mph + on several occasions.

 

[D.T.]

My turn. I grabbed the rear wheel on the rear stand and tried to wobble it. Nice and tight. Grabbed the rear sprocket, and wobble wobble to beat hell. :crazy:

Remove the axle and notice a bit of wear on it right where the bearing adapter sits on it. This is part of the problem. I do have wobble in the sprocket bearing so I got it out. Found the dimensions...

http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/servlet/the-1811/62-fdsh-32-dsh-2RS-Radial-Ball-Bearing/Detail

Going to replace this bearing first and go from there. Rear cushions don't last long on this bike either! inch:

 

[xtremewlr]

My turn. I grabbed the rear wheel on the rear stand and tried to wobble it. Nice and tight. Grabbed the rear sprocket, and wobble wobble to beat hell. :crazy:

Remove the axle and notice a bit of wear on it right where the bearing adapter sits on it. This is part of the problem. I do have wobble in the sprocket bearing so I got it out. Found the dimensions...

http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/servlet/the-1811/62-fdsh-32-dsh-2RS-Radial-Ball-Bearing/Detail

Going to replace this bearing first and go from there. Rear cushions don't last long on this bike either! inch:

Complete rear wheel bearing set with seals for the SV1000 - http://www.allballsracing.com/25-1392.html

This would and will be my first choice for replacement wheel bearings.

 

[D.T.]

That's not a bad price for the whole deal since 1 Suzuki OEM bearing ONLY costs $37 bucks. hmy:

I'll try an industrial bearing shop first for just the bearing on the way to work today.

Oh yeah, I have about 50k miles on these bearings so not too shabby.