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Hi guys, new to the forum. I'm looking at getting rid of the btl in some sort of way. Ive been searching through a lot of forums and it seems like you either weld it or swap it from a first gen dl. My question is if you weld the btl are you able to run the stock springs? Any idea on if the dl swap is better/worse than welding? Mainly looking to do the swap so its not such a pain to launch the bike. I have an 03 sv1000s if that makes any difference. From other posts I've seen that id need:
09160-25056 X1 Washer that goes behind the center clutch hub
21410-06G00 X1 Center clutch hub
09181-25223 X1 spring washer seat
21462-06G00 X1 Pressure plate
21412-06G00 X5 Spring bolts
21413-06G10 X5 Clutch springs
21414-29F00 X5 Clutch spring washers

All helps appreciated. Thanks.
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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5,108 Posts
Hi guys, new to the forum. I'm looking at getting rid of the btl in some sort of way. Ive been searching through a lot of forums and it seems like you either weld it or swap it from a first gen dl. My question is if you weld the btl are you able to run the stock springs? Any idea on if the dl swap is better/worse than welding? Mainly looking to do the swap so its not such a pain to launch the bike. I have an 03 sv1000s if that makes any difference. From other posts I've seen that id need:
09160-25056 X1 Washer that goes behind the center clutch hub
21410-06G00 X1 Center clutch hub
09181-25223 X1 spring washer seat
21462-06G00 X1 Pressure plate
21412-06G00 X5 Spring bolts
21413-06G10 X5 Clutch springs
21414-29F00 X5 Clutch spring washers

All helps appreciated. Thanks.
I have converted a bunch of bikes to Gen1 and Gen2 DL1000 clutches.

Welding up works, but you should use a stiffer spring.

The Gen1 DL swap is much lighter but will have a heavier clutch pull. We used this set up in a drag race bike and it worked awesome and launched the way the owner wanted.

Along with that parts list, you might include a gasket and center nut.

If interested, I might have one more batch of parts in the shop to do the Gen1 conversion.

PM me if interested.
-ms
 

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Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
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I ran with a 1st gen DL hub and got a WERKS rebuild on my basket.....best money I have spent on the bike....
Yes, the lever is a bit firmer, but after a few days I didn't notice it.
 

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Hi guys, new to the forum. I'm looking at getting rid of the btl in some sort of way. Ive been searching through a lot of forums and it seems like you either weld it or swap it from a first gen dl. My question is if you weld the btl are you able to run the stock springs? Any idea on if the dl swap is better/worse than welding? Mainly looking to do the swap so its not such a pain to launch the bike. I have an 03 sv1000s if that makes any difference. From other posts I've seen that id need:
09160-25056 X1 Washer that goes behind the center clutch hub
21410-06G00 X1 Center clutch hub
09181-25223 X1 spring washer seat
21462-06G00 X1 Pressure plate
21412-06G00 X5 Spring bolts
21413-06G10 X5 Clutch springs
21414-29F00 X5 Clutch spring washers

All helps appreciated. Thanks.
I was thinking about doing the same on my SV while ago using the dl 1000 parts. Mike's comment about stiff clutch pull feel, made me step back on doing it for now.
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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I was thinking about doing the same on my SV while ago using the dl 1000 parts. Mike's comment about stiff clutch pull feel, made me step back on doing it for now.
Then do the Gen2 clutch! Really easy pull on lever!
-ms
 

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I was thinking about doing the same on my SV while ago using the dl 1000 parts. Mike's comment about stiff clutch pull feel, made me step back on doing it for now.
The clutch DOES get stiffer...but nothing out of the ordinary and if you hadn't ridden with the stock lever effort you wouldn't even know it because it's no different than many other bikes. Now if you have some physical limitations to your grip strength then you'd probably be better with the 2nd Gen swap but the early version makes the clutch feel great IMHO.
 

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Hice la operación inversa en mi DL, monté un núcleo SV, la diferencia en el mango es apreciable. Si el núcleo DL es demasiado duro, monta una bomba de embrague radial ducati o aprilia brembo, la palanca será de mantequilla.
 

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2003 SV1000s (YC2)
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I was thinking about doing the same on my SV while ago using the dl 1000 parts. Mike's comment about stiff clutch pull feel, made me step back on doing it for now.
I have the gen 1 DL hub on my 03, combined with a lighter 05+ rotor the difference is very noticeable.

Sure the lever is a bit heavier than using aftermarket springs in the SV hub but I don't think it's excessive.
 

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Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
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1,257 Posts
Hice la operación inversa en mi DL, monté un núcleo SV, la diferencia en el mango es apreciable. Si el núcleo DL es demasiado duro, monta una bomba de embrague radial ducati o aprilia brembo, la palanca será de mantequilla.

Arcore, ha ha..... please translate... HA HA
 

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Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
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1,257 Posts
I was thinking about doing the same on my SV while ago using the dl 1000 parts. Mike's comment about stiff clutch pull feel, made me step back on doing it for now.
As RecoilRob said, it is stiffer, but, only because you are used to the assisted clutch set-up on the SV..... His comment regarding physical strength is quite valid .......
If you are of "normal" physical prowess, then it wont be a problem.....
 

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Arcore, ha ha..... please translate... HA HA
Sorry, I don't speak English, I use the translation tool and I don't see when it hasn't worked, it's complicated. if the clutch lever is too stiff with the DL core fitting a ducat or aprilia brembo radial clutch pump will make the lever soft as butter
 

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Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
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1,257 Posts
Sorry, I don't speak English, I use the translation tool and I don't see when it hasn't worked, it's complicated. if the clutch lever is too stiff with the DL core fitting a ducat or aprilia brembo radial clutch pump will make the lever soft as butter
Excellent trans;ation....

Yes, that is a good way of making it a little easier...the master cylinder needs to be a tiny bit smaller bore to make it easier..... not too much though, because lever travel will increase becuase you
still need to move the same amount of fluid.....
 

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The DL hub swap does have increased lever pull force. But thousands of DL owners live with it! There is a mod that helps a bit. I came up with this many years ago. Mainly it allows you to grip the lever better, which allows you to pull on it better. It also puts the take-up point closer to where other bikes are!

Clutch lever mod
 

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I ran with a 1st gen DL hub and got a WERKS rebuild on my basket.....best money I have spent on the bike....
Yes, the lever is a bit firmer, but after a few days I didn't notice it.
So both a complete clutch (basket, hub, clutch plates and springs) from a DL1000 1. gen (2002-2012?) and also had the same clutch basket reworked?
It is due to lower rotational mass or do the DL clutch come with other goodies?

I'm currently searching for a clutch basket on eBay and local SV communities. That basket Iwould probably send to the UK to Sharealike and have fixed while i'm still able to ride my bike.
Might as well widen the search to DL1000 baskets if it will be a nice upgrade.
 

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So both a complete clutch (basket, hub, clutch plates and springs) from a DL1000 1. gen (2002-2012?) and also had the same clutch basket reworked?
It is due to lower rotational mass or do the DL clutch come with other goodies?

I'm currently searching for a clutch basket on eBay and local SV communities. That basket Iwould probably send to the UK to Sharealike and have fixed while i'm still able to ride my bike.
Might as well widen the search to DL1000 baskets if it will be a nice upgrade.
You don't need the basket from the DL, you need the hub, springs, and a few other odds and ends. I think the list is above, for example you also change the large spacer washer behind the basket.

The SV basket does need to be reworked for better longevity to fix the inherent problem which it shares with the DL basket. Realshelby is better qualified to weigh in on the differences, if any, between baskets and the modification needed. He did the work on mine which is still great years later.

The reduced weight is coming from the one piece aluminum hub of the DL.
 

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You don't need the basket from the DL, you need the hub, springs, and a few other odds and ends. I think the list is above, for example you also change the large spacer washer behind the basket.

The SV basket does need to be reworked for better longevity to fix the inherent problem which it shares with the DL basket. Realshelby is better qualified to weigh in on the differences, if any, between baskets and the modification needed. He did the work on mine which is still great years later.

The reduced weight is coming from the one piece aluminum hub of the DL.
Thanks for explaining. Dosn't seem too expensive to swap the parts.
I'm planning for rework of the clutch basket next winter, so might as well gather the needed parts and do this while the case is open anyway.
 

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So both a complete clutch (basket, hub, clutch plates and springs) from a DL1000 1. gen (2002-2012?) and also had the same clutch basket reworked?
It is due to lower rotational mass or do the DL clutch come with other goodies?

I'm currently searching for a clutch basket on eBay and local SV communities. That basket Iwould probably send to the UK to Sharealike and have fixed while i'm still able to ride my bike.
Might as well widen the search to DL1000 baskets if it will be a nice upgrade.
You want to run the "SV" style clutch basket. It has different, stronger damping springs and a stronger top plate. The SV has over 25 more horsepower and needs these stronger springs to absorb the torque pulses. I have had customers install a DL basket in an SV then send it in for modification. They get the Hell beat out of them internally as they hit the stop posts too often due to the weaker DL springs.
The DL hub is more simple, less parts and what parts are there are all aluminum compared to the steel components in the SV BTL inner hub assembly. The DL must use stronger pressure plate springs, as that is the only force used for clamping pressure. Even with the SV's extra power, there is no problem with clutch slippage. In my opinion the stock pressure plate springs are actually a bit on the stiff side for either bike. BUT....that also means the clutch discs rarely show excessive wear!
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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5,108 Posts
You want to run the "SV" style clutch basket. It has different, stronger damping springs and a stronger top plate. The SV has over 25 more horsepower and needs these stronger springs to absorb the torque pulses. I have had customers install a DL basket in an SV then send it in for modification. They get the Hell beat out of them internally as they hit the stop posts too often due to the weaker DL springs.
The DL hub is more simple, less parts and what parts are there are all aluminum compared to the steel components in the SV BTL inner hub assembly. The DL must use stronger pressure plate springs, as that is the only force used for clamping pressure. Even with the SV's extra power, there is no problem with clutch slippage. In my opinion the stock pressure plate springs are actually a bit on the stiff side for either bike. BUT....that also means the clutch discs rarely show excessive wear!
We have drag raced with stock DL1000 clutch guts in an SV1000 without issue.

For anyones information
Stock SV clutch spring rate 16.6 N/mm
Stock SV clutch spring free length 27mm
Spring preload with BTL unloaded 9mm
Spring preload with BTL loaded 13.5mm
Total clutch pack force BTL unloaded 896.4N
Total clutch pack force BTL loaded 1344.6N

Barnett SV1000 clutch spring rate 31.0 N/mm
Barnett clutch spring free length 25.15mm
Barnett clutch spring preload with BTL unloaded 7.15mm
Barnett clutch spring preload with BTL loaded 11.65mm
Total clutch pack force BTL unloaded 1329.9N
Total clutch pack force BTL loaded 2166.9

DL1000 info
Stock DL clutch spring rate 8.7 N/mm
Stock DL clutch spring free length 62.5mm
Spring preload 30.4mm
Total clutch pack force 1322.4N

-MS
 

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You want to run the "SV" style clutch basket. It has different, stronger damping springs and a stronger top plate. The SV has over 25 more horsepower and needs these stronger springs to absorb the torque pulses. I have had customers install a DL basket in an SV then send it in for modification. They get the Hell beat out of them internally as they hit the stop posts too often due to the weaker DL springs.
The DL hub is more simple, less parts and what parts are there are all aluminum compared to the steel components in the SV BTL inner hub assembly. The DL must use stronger pressure plate springs, as that is the only force used for clamping pressure. Even with the SV's extra power, there is no problem with clutch slippage. In my opinion the stock pressure plate springs are actually a bit on the stiff side for either bike. BUT....that also means the clutch discs rarely show excessive wear!
Thanks for further explanation!
I just had a look at at diagrams from spare part catalogue, older post here, and at a danish SV forum. I think it all makes sense to me now.
A local supplier of Suzuki spare parts have a old stock that needs to go - a DL1000 gen 1 hub is 40% off. Think I'll grab it and put it on the shelf for next winter.
 
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