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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I posted this thread on svrider as well. I'm curious about this issue as it seems to be somewhat common...:confused:

Guys I need some opinions/help here. I've got an 03 sv1000s and I'm still learning about the bike (new rider in general). Only had it about a month and I've put maybe 150 miles on it since I've had it (been too cold obviously).....BUT the dang thing is super jerky in 1st gear to the point that it is causing chain backlash/jerk (I guess that is what it is called.)

It is smooth as can be in every gear BUT 1st when driving. If I start in first going super slow (almost to the point of it not staying up on it's own) and don't get the rpms to where they would be for when you shift into 2nd then it is fine....BUT once they get up to shifting RPM's the dang thing starts jerking like crazy to the point it jerks on the main sprocket. Almost like if you was trying to throttle up in a gear too high for your speed/rpms....BUT WORSE...LOL.

Also when I'm first shifting down into 1st or up into 2nd from NEUTRAL when STOPPED it shifts hard. When I shift down into 1st the bike will lunge just a bit (logic says worn or clutch needing adjustment), BUT not when I shift into second. Also if I shift down into 1st FIRST then straight up into 2nd it shifts smoothly into 2nd. From the neutral position when stopped is where it shifts hard from. Harder down into 1st than up to 2nd....Also when I shift up into 2nd from Neutral SLOWLY I can feel it bouncing off my foot very fast like it is trying to shift into 2nd but can't. I have to give it a quick but firm shift to get it into second when doing it this way. I obviously don't shift slow, but I tried this to feel it shifting and this is when I noticed it. Doesn't seem right to me.

When I'm driving it I have no shifting or clutch issues AT ALL...other than the first gear jerkiness. I have to start in 2nd, but when driving it is smooth as butter with no clutch chadder or slippage, jerkiness, NOTHING!!

Any help for a Newbie rider would be appreciated. I've read on how to do the TPS mod, BUT I need to learn how to adjust clutch and whatnot FIRST if that is an issue too. Or the ENTIRE issue...lol I really hope it isn't a bad gear/s issue..:eek:hmy:
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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I posted this thread on svrider as well. I'm curious about this issue as it seems to be somewhat common...:confused:

Guys I need some opinions/help here. I've got an 03 sv1000s and I'm still learning about the bike (new rider in general). Only had it about a month and I've put maybe 150 miles on it since I've had it (been too cold obviously).....BUT the dang thing is super jerky in 1st gear to the point that it is causing chain backlash/jerk (I guess that is what it is called.)

It is smooth as can be in every gear BUT 1st when driving. If I start in first going super slow (almost to the point of it not staying up on it's own) and don't get the rpms to where they would be for when you shift into 2nd then it is fine....BUT once they get up to shifting RPM's the dang thing starts jerking like crazy to the point it jerks on the main sprocket. Almost like if you was trying to throttle up in a gear too high for your speed/rpms....BUT WORSE...LOL.

Also when I'm first shifting down into 1st or up into 2nd from NEUTRAL when STOPPED it shifts hard. When I shift down into 1st the bike will lunge just a bit (logic says worn or clutch needing adjustment), BUT not when I shift into second. Also if I shift down into 1st FIRST then straight up into 2nd it shifts smoothly into 2nd. From the neutral position when stopped is where it shifts hard from. Harder down into 1st than up to 2nd....Also when I shift up into 2nd from Neutral SLOWLY I can feel it bouncing off my foot very fast like it is trying to shift into 2nd but can't. I have to give it a quick but firm shift to get it into second when doing it this way. I obviously don't shift slow, but I tried this to feel it shifting and this is when I noticed it. Doesn't seem right to me.

When I'm driving it I have no shifting or clutch issues AT ALL...other than the first gear jerkiness. I have to start in 2nd, but when driving it is smooth as butter with no clutch chadder or slippage, jerkiness, NOTHING!!

Any help for a Newbie rider would be appreciated. I've read on how to do the TPS mod, BUT I need to learn how to adjust clutch and whatnot FIRST if that is an issue too. Or the ENTIRE issue...lol I really hope it isn't a bad gear/s issue..:eek:hmy:
As you have discovered the clutch is hydraulic. It is important thought to make sure you have fresh fluid and it is correctly bled up. Clean out the area behind the slave of all the chain goo and other crap and make sure it is all in spec there too. It does not sound like you clutch is dragging, so it is probably fine.

The clunking going into gear might not be abnormal. Please do not do what you were saying and super slowly trying to slide it into gear. The feeling that you describe is the tranny dogs slamming into each other and slipping over. You do not want to beat the sharp edges off the dogs, it will cost a bunch to fix. Some clunk is expected from neutral. Basically all the gears are floating and spinning at many different speeds. When it goes into first, gear the gear engage running a different speeds and are also stopped. Several factor like oil brand and type, oil temp can change this in some cases. If I get a bike that seems to be clunking more than normal I check the following things first
1. Chain and sprocket health. Chain tensioned correctly and not excessively stretched. No tight or loose spots when spun with wheel in the air. Sprockets are in good shape.
2. Check counter shaft sprocket to assure it is tight and torqued correctly.
3. Check rear sprocket nuts.
4. Check sprocket carrier bearings.
Any of the items will cause excessive backlash and can cause even more engagement clunk.

The jerkyness you describe can also be caused by several of the above item too. I would check all 4 items above and then add to check the wheels bearings. Just get some miles on it also.

From here I would highly recommend making sure the regular service stuff has been completed. New plugs, synch throttle bodies, set TPS, check plug cap resistance and connection to wire. Throw a can of Sea-Foam in the tank at your next fill up. Then there are other things to check also such as mapping, gear position switch and more.

Good luck
-MS
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
As you have discovered the clutch is hydraulic. It is important thought to make sure you have fresh fluid and it is correctly bled up. Clean out the area behind the slave of all the chain goo and other crap and make sure it is all in spec there too. It does not sound like you clutch is dragging, so it is probably fine.

The clunking going into gear might not be abnormal. Please do not do what you were saying and super slowly trying to slide it into gear. The feeling that you describe is the tranny dogs slamming into each other and slipping over. You do not want to beat the sharp edges off the dogs, it will cost a bunch to fix. Some clunk is expected from neutral. Basically all the gears are floating and spinning at many different speeds. When it goes into first, gear the gear engage running a different speeds and are also stopped. Several factor like oil brand and type, oil temp can change this in some cases. If I get a bike that seems to be clunking more than normal I check the following things first
1. Chain and sprocket health. Chain tensioned correctly and not excessively stretched. No tight or loose spots when spun with wheel in the air. Sprockets are in good shape.
2. Check counter shaft sprocket to assure it is tight and torqued correctly.
3. Check rear sprocket nuts.
4. Check sprocket carrier bearings.
Any of the items will cause excessive backlash and can cause even more engagement clunk.

The jerkyness you describe can also be caused by several of the above item too. I would check all 4 items above and then add to check the wheels bearings. Just get some miles on it also.

From here I would highly recommend making sure the regular service stuff has been completed. New plugs, synch throttle bodies, set TPS, check plug cap resistance and connection to wire. Throw a can of Sea-Foam in the tank at your next fill up. Then there are other things to check also such as mapping, gear position switch and more.

Good luck
-MS
Ok I did notice an issue when I had it up in the air on stands. Like either a frozen chain link OR bad drive sprocket maybe. Or both.

When I would roll the wheel I could feel a bind or a weird catch when spinning the wheel freely at a certain spot. I know something isn't right. I could also tell that when I adjusted the chain it looked pretty darn old AND the chain when I tightened it (1" slack) it was slightly passed the last adjustment mark. I doubt it has ever had a new chain.

I couldn't sleep because the issue was buggin me so I went out to my shop and cycled a few reservoirs full of fluid through the cylinder. As soon as I let my clutch lever out maybe 15mm or so the bike tries to move so it seems my clutch is good.

I'll go ahead and order a new chain and sprockets and get that sorted out first.
 

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Moving at the speed of...
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If the chain is in bad condition, other service items might also be neglected. It might be worth treating the bike to some decent quality motorcycle oil and a new filter. After all the clutch is running in this oil and it could be making the plates stick a little.

You are usually better off having the chain adjustment towards the slack end of the adjustment specification for slick shifting i.e just a tad over an inch of slack. Make sure you have this slack when the chain is at the tight spots. Better still splash the cash and get yourself a new chain and sprockets.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah the chain was better after I lubed it and tensioned it properly but that slight catch/hang up is still there.

I'm gonna change oil, new sprockets/chain, and TPS adjustment after the holidays. Well the oil change and chain stuff anyways.
 

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No mention of miles on the bike. It sounds like a worn out front sprocket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Little over 20,000 miles. If remember correctly the sprockets have been changed already for lower gearing. One or both anyways and I don't remember when.

Gonna put all new stock back on anyways because I prefer highway gearing.
 

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While you are changing the chain/sprockets, be sure to check the rubber cushions in the rear wheel as they tend to get loose with time and miles. With the bike in gear on the pit stand, if you can see any movement between the sprocket and rear wheel it's time to do something about the drive rubbers. Mine were getting loose, but still seemed to be sound...just not as tight as they'd once been, so some shims were donated from old oil bottles and slid between wheel and rubber. This snugged them right up.

When they get loose you'll also likely be able to wiggle the sprocket side for side a bit...if so, time for shims or new rubbers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thx for the tip....I would have had no idea to check those out. I'm sure they could use some shims.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well heck my little dash mark before the C hit the top at like 1600 rpms....soooo I'll leave her be.
 

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I got a mt01 a few years back, chain looked good and correctly tensioned, rear sprocket good but could tell it wasn't right when riding, checked chain on paddock stand and there was a tight spot. Then checked front sprocket.. It's never been changed, it was on soooooooooooooooooo tight had to cut the nut off as worried I'd snap drive shaft.the sprockets was the worst worn ive ever seen in 40 years of biking.

Another thing with the SV.. The little lever arm that comes down from the gear lever shaft has to be dead vertical in neutral position. I had all sorts of gear change problems with mine , would never have believed the position of this arm would have made much difference, still can't believe it but it does. So put bike in neutral, look at the little arm that comes down off the gear shaft from the gearbox and make sure its 100% vertical.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I got a mt01 a few years back, chain looked good and correctly tensioned, rear sprocket good but could tell it wasn't right when riding, checked chain on paddock stand and there was a tight spot. Then checked front sprocket.. It's never been changed, it was on soooooooooooooooooo tight had to cut the nut off as worried I'd snap drive shaft.the sprockets was the worst worn ive ever seen in 40 years of biking.

Another thing with the SV.. The little lever arm that comes down from the gear lever shaft has to be dead vertical in neutral position. I had all sorts of gear change problems with mine , would never have believed the position of this arm would have made much difference, still can't believe it but it does. So put bike in neutral, look at the little arm that comes down off the gear shaft from the gearbox and make sure its 100% vertical.
Okay I checked this and the arm that connects to the shifting rod is NOT dead vertical. It is off to the right maybe 12 degrees (the spot that attaches to the rod). I'm assuming I need to adjust it a spline or 2..??
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Okay I adjusted it and although the shifting from neutral to 1 and 2 feels cleaner/crisper now it still has that weird hang up thing it does every now and again. I have a feeling like quite a few are saying that the problem lies within the front sprocket and chain.

I'm just waiting on my sprockets and chain to get here then I'll change everything along with a fresh oil change, shimmed bumper thingies, and see if that fixes it.

thx again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Okay pulled old sprocket and chain and the chain was HORRIBLE. Lots of stiff links. Countershaft sprocket wasn't worn all that much, BUT I'm putting a 17T back on instead of the 15T that was on there. I'm gonna put a new fresh 42 in the rear.
 

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The SV1K has lots and lots of torque to pull it around, so gearing it down so far doesn't really make sense to me. I've run 18/40 for most of the miles and it gets down the road just fine.:) Plus it'll then cruise at Super-highway speeds while staying in the 4500-5000 rpm range. Going from a 15T to 17T countershaft sprocket is a good move, but 18T will get the speedometer closer and almost right on the money if you run the 40T rear sprocket.

Remember that the chain doesn't like making tight turns and the front sprocket is where most of the harm is done to it. The 18T is easiest on the tight turn and also helps keep the chain up and off of the swingarm slider which is very likely destroyed on yours from the tiny sprocket it was running. Now is the time to check it.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The slider is still ok. I don't think the different sprockets were on there all that long as they had very little wear. The chain was a standard (non O'ring) chain that didn't look like it had ever seen any lube.

I've already put the 17T on and I'm just waiting for my rear sprocket (42T) and new X-ring chain to get here.
 

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I tried + 2 teeth on the rear sprocket for about 12000 miles but have gone back to standard gearing now. My SV is making 114 rw bhp and 74 ft lbs so can pull standard gearing fine.
 
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