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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have cored it and put a perforated tube in the end cap and its nice and burbly good. And polished the cans.
However It looks too long to me. I would like to cut it just past the hanger ear, grind the rim of the snout plate (original exhaust tip) fit it tight back into the can and have it tig welded. I have an expert welder volunteer so I'm good there.
My question is, has anyone done it and what was the result ?
I'm actually happy with it now in terms of sound and feel, just the visual looks off, too much shiny eye catching going on.
Yea Black paint would probably be cheaper and better solution. But what's the fun in that, besides, its still available after the chop and reweld.
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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I have cored it and put a perforated tube in the end cap and its nice and burbly good. And polished the cans.
However It looks too long to me. I would like to cut it just past the hanger ear, grind the rim of the snout plate (original exhaust tip) fit it tight back into the can and have it tig welded. I have an expert welder volunteer so I'm good there.
My question is, has anyone done it and what was the result ?
I'm actually happy with it now in terms of sound and feel, just the visual looks off, too much shiny eye catching going on.
Yea Black paint would probably be cheaper and better solution. But what's the fun in that, besides, its still available after the chop and reweld.
The shorter the can, the much less life you will get out of the packing.

-ms
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There's no packing in it right now. AFAIK - not seen int in a while. BTW my perforated pipe is installed at a sort of downward angle, so the exhaust has to partially pass through the wall and the little holes and sort of get in the way of the gas passing through the main big through hole. But shortening it, I may get more to pass through the small holes and less through the bigger holes - lowering flow, but really that's 100X stock can to 99X stock can difference there. To my eye, its for looks only.
 

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Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
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Maybe photoshop the look first..... 6" is a lot of can to remove...picture it at 2" and 4" ...............and i would assume its gonna change the power characterisitics
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm thinking 1" or so after the footpeg carrier ear. As for power, I am likely cutting the flow a little from the setup I have now. Remember I have cored the can, and put a 6" perforated tube I welded into the endcap and its actually pointed downward so its not straight line flow now like an aftermarket can. Its got some exhaust gas that flows like a V and some gas that flows straight across and through the perforations that act to disrupt that V.
So when I unbolt the end cap and push that end cap in further the V gets a lot deeper and hence will flow less and the straight through that has to go through the perforations will be higher %. It will still be a lot less of a choke point than the stock 3 chamber. Now I would like this visually and more importantly that last 4-5" of the can is held higher up and further back in the bike. So its weight is more of a de-centralized mass than say that same weight out under your belly like in a tank bag.
Will any of this matter ??? No idea.
Will I still paint it black after this ??? No idea.
Will it looks better to my eyes ? - Definitely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Oh I just realized - The 2 baffle plates are still there in the can. Only the inside thing was removed. Or is this a different design than the GS I am used to - OK will check tomorrow. GS can is steel, and has 2 plates with exhaust entering chamber 1, 2 tiny tubes take it through chamber 2 to chamber 3, 2 tiny holes bring that back to chamber 2 and a tiny pipe take it through chamber 3 to open air. But SV is aluminum wall, cant be that way I'm sure. I'll look tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Has anyone cut their exhaust can ? I suspect my idea wont work or atleast not the way I have conceptualized it. The rolled edge at the tip is what is keeping that end cap plate in place. I need to cut it like 1" inside the tip. Then the welding will have to be 1" from the tip, making it looks just as dumb - and not at the edge, where it would look a lot better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK Looking at it, the chamber 1 to 2 Baffle is past the welded up ear. So cutting it 2" before that ear, and cutting the end 2" in from the open end will leave me with 3-4" or even as much as 6" which will leave me easily fitting the perforated pipe fitted end cap. OK off it goes to the chopping saw.
 
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