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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I pulled my left engine cover to do the jb weld on my flywheel. My bike is away for the winter and I figured now to do it. I am going to get a puller to take it off and jb weld it in the house where its warmer. So I got the cover off and this is what I have. My question, since it seems as only one magnet has moved a little bit. Should I try and remove it and re attatch it or leave it as is and just jb weld as is? What might be the easiest way to remove a magnet without damaging it. Any info and comments or opinions appreciated.
TIA
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Yeah.....just gently prise it off, see if you can force it outwards into your hand, rather than lifting the end....clean and prep the rotor for filling the gaps.....then clean the back of
the loose magnet and rotor with some grit paper, cleaning again.....and put the thinnest smear of JB on the back, clamp it in place for 4 or 5 hours and while you are waiting
for it to set, fill the rest of the gaps.......
 

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Yeah.....just gently prise it off, see if you can force it outwards into your hand, rather than lifting the end....clean and prep the rotor for filling the gaps.....then clean the back of
the loose magnet and rotor with some grit paper, cleaning again.....and put the thinnest smear of JB on the back, clamp it in place for 4 or 5 hours and while you are waiting
for it to set, fill the rest of the gaps.......
Over the years have you tried one of the mosfet regulators with much success or just JB weld and keep riding with the std regulator ?
 

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Over the years have you tried one of the mosfet regulators with much success or just JB weld and keep riding with the std regulator ?
First, you have to apply a good amount of heat to get that magnet off. Be extremely careful, since those magnets are brittle and will fragment with an application of force, especially prying with something like a screwdriver.

I've only heard of a few people using a MOSFET regulator/rectifier to make the alternator run cooler. They say that it completely solves that magnet problem.

One problem is that the Shindengen reg/rec that folks recommend isn't a plug and play replacement. It takes some splicing and bracket fabrication. I've heard of this MOSFET reg/rec replacement that is supposed to be plug and play, but I haven't heard back from anyone who has tried it:

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I pulled my left engine cover to do the jb weld on my flywheel. My bike is away for the winter and I figured now to do it. I am going to get a puller to take it off and jb weld it in the house where its warmer. So I got the cover off and this is what I have. My question, since it seems as only one magnet has moved a little bit. Should I try and remove it and re attatch it or leave it as is and just jb weld as is? What might be the easiest way to remove a magnet without damaging it. Any info and comments or opinions appreciated.
TIA
Stave
once I get the rotor off, would it work to put it in an oven at say 400 degrees for an hour or so to soften the magnet glue?
 

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Yeah, that'll do it....but remember to take the one way clutch off the back of the rotor.......no need to roast it too....

Be aware that the other magnets may come loose with it.....

Oh, and remember that the magnets are north south poled.....so, make sure they go back in the same direction as removed
 
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once I get the rotor off, would it work to put it in an oven at say 400 degrees for an hour or so to soften the magnet glue?
From my experience about 170°C is what it takes for the stock glue to let go.
If you have a heat gun apply heat from the outside of the flywheel only at the area covered by the magnet. 5 mins or so should be enough.
Too much heat weakens the magnetism permentely, so need need to shove it on the oven at far too high temperature for too long.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
From my experience about 170°C is what it takes for the stock glue to let go.
If you have a heat gun apply heat from the outside of the flywheel only at the area covered by the magnet. 5 mins or so should be enough.
Too much heat weakens the magnetism permentely, so need need to shove it on the oven at far too high temperature for too long.
I have the flywheel off. I only have to shift 1 magnet about 1/8 " I was thinking of not even messing with it and just JB weld as is. I may try the heat gun since I have 1.
 

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I have the flywheel off. I only have to shift 1 magnet about 1/8 " I was thinking of not even messing with it and just JB weld as is. I may try the heat gun since I have 1.
You need to at least reglue the one shifted and fill the gaps as Missing Link mentioned - otherwise it will be a ticking bomb.
 
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I have the flywheel off. I only have to shift 1 magnet about 1/8 " I was thinking of not even messing with it and just JB weld as is. I may try the heat gun since I have 1.
You do realise that it has altered the balance of the rotor ? I know its only a little, and adding the extra JB in that larger gap may not help as it is different in weight to the
equivelant portion of magnet it is substituting.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
After looking further I seen 2 other magnets shifted slightly. The heat gun worked great and I was able to remove all 6 magnets in about 10 minutes. It actually looks like oil is getting behind the epoxy ,with the hub being so smooth there is no adhesion. I'm gonna clean and prep it all and J B weld the magnets in place, then fill the gaps after the magnets set.
. Automotive tire Hood Blue Motor vehicle Wood
 

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After looking further I seen 2 other magnets shifted slightly. The heat gun worked great and I was able to remove all 6 magnets in about 10 minutes. It actually looks like oil is getting behind the epoxy ,with the hub being so smooth there is no adhesion. I'm gonna clean and prep it all and J B weld the magnets in place, then fill the gaps after the magnets set.
. View attachment 117803

Good move......the thinnest of thin smears without gaps on the backs of them is all you need......and make sure you get them going north south north south all the way round.....
 
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Ok so I'm looking at this job as I've just discovered this common issue with the bike, I plan to pull my cover soon to check. When people are referring to "gaps" are you stating the gaps between the magnets, or gaps as in any gap between the magnet and the surface of the rotor?
 

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I'm not aware of this magnet thing, what are the symptoms? My '03 feels pretty smooth (sv1000s). At 85 mph or so I notice just a slight vibration but nothing serious. I've noticed it more with the new Corbin seat as it sits lower & is thinner.
 

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I'm not aware of this magnet thing, what are the symptoms? My '03 feels pretty smooth (sv1000s). At 85 mph or so I notice just a slight vibration but nothing serious. I've noticed it more with the new Corbin seat as it sits lower & is thinner.
Unfortunately, there usually aren't symptoms until you suffer a dead battery from charging system failure. And by that time, you usually have at least one magnet that has shattered possibly damaging or destroying the stator and other magnets. Also shattered magnet debris has the opportunity to enter the oil passageway. All scary stuff. Best to JB Weld all the magnets while they are still intact.(y)
 

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Ok so I'm looking at this job as I've just discovered this common issue with the bike, I plan to pull my cover soon to check. When people are referring to "gaps" are you stating the gaps between the magnets, or gaps as in any gap between the magnet and the surface of the rotor?
Yes, the gaps between each magnet and the ones next to them.
 

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I'm not aware of this magnet thing, what are the symptoms? My '03 feels pretty smooth (sv1000s). At 85 mph or so I notice just a slight vibration but nothing serious. I've noticed it more with the new Corbin seat as it sits lower & is thinner.
An ounce of prevention......cause the tears you shed otherwise cause corrosion in other parts of the bike......check it out.....like oldbaldsob said, it gets real ugly ......
 
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