[Missing Link]

..................Is there a tool to be used for pulling the rotor ? .........................

You can go to a bolt place and get a M20 x 1.5 pitch bolt, lube the threads and screw it into the rotor and it wil pop it off no probs, just gotta hold the rotor from turning.
It isnt totally needed to remove it to JB the thing, unless the rotor neededs replacing.

 

[Jokester]

I thought we had to clean off the oil on the rotor else how would jb weld stick ? I suck at epoxying. I am excellent at certain things, and suck at other despite repeated tries.

 

[Jokester]

K&J Magnetics: AX2C45-N (kjmagnetics.com)

Would something like this be an idea and we can actually also get these with bolt heads that are countersunk into the magnet. You can bolt the thing on to the rotor (which we have to drill and tap)
N50 is really equal to 10X the power of our ferrite magnets, which typically are ~N5. They also look much thinner, but that also puts them further away from the stator, which may be a good thing. I'd count on a big increase in magnetic lines of force, even if not quite 10 fold. Really 10 fold would be shocking to this puny electrical system to say the least. I'd go to a 6 pole over the 8 they have shown if I get even a 2 fold. You dont want to be making twice the current or voltage, that will fry the wiring harness. - Well on second thought - maybe not. The BMW R series bikes make 700 watts. What is the stock alternator wattage on the SV ? 200 ? The BMW doesn't have any different wiring than the sv, Just a bigger battery, and maybe a R/R designed to use or lose more wattage. Putting the r/r in open air does wonders for its ability to lose it. So does going to those zener diode ones.

 

[Missing Link]

Looking at those K&J magnets i would say the radius is way off. THey auited to 1-1/8" outer radius.....would have to assume they would "rock" on the stator wall as they would have too much curve in them.....

 

[Jokester]

Yea, they wont fit but that was just an example, BTW they will fabricate the magnet of your design, but likely wont be cheap. Or you can actually use this instead, with light creative fabbing of your own -
K&J Magnetics: BX082CS-N (kjmagnetics.com)
But now these are much smaller, and when mounted into the rotor will have a ton ton ton of NSNSNSNSNSNSNSNS pairs over the stock 6 magnet set. So you may make a ton of juice. The more magnetic lines of force you cut and the stronger the lines are the more voltage and current you'd make. Anyway they are flat and when placed into a drum they'd have the opposite problem to rocking. We can simply take care of that with a washer under them. Then again, you'd have to drill and tap a million holes in the rotor.

 

[Missing Link]

.............................K&J Magnetics: BX082CS-N (kjmagnetics.com)
......................... Then again, you'd have to drill and tap a million holes in the rotor.........................

Cant remember who wide the oem magnets are, but, you could lay them side by side, and upside down on a bed of JB, the countersink holes would serve to anchor them.
Basically put a plastic dam wall on the outisde of the rotor and fill it with JB and the press the magnets in, clear the excess away and then sand clean when hard. Even better if the
rotor could be put in a lathe and spun at about 300 rpm for a few hours to centralise and even the JB out....
The height in the middle of the magnet is the critical part, wouldl it be too close to the stator, or, too far away? I am not an electrical whiz, so i have no idea what effect either of those
condtions would create.

 

[Jokester]

The drilling and tapping method if I go that way would be done by someone who works at a huge factory making RC car parts. I'm not trusting myself with JB weld after going through all that effort. Its gonna be bolted in. No JB weld with in a 100 miles of my bike (if the bolt in idea takes off) and if it actually works in the bike, I'll be putting his contact info and he will be doing it as a service to you guys if you want.
If you're talking stock magnets being bolted in, they are too soft to be drilled without getting to where they may disintegrate. I only trust bolting in a magnet that is manufactured to take a bolt.
Now on the electricity and magnetism part - The magnetic lines of force go north to south.Since these magnets are places NSNSNS facing the coil magnetic lines of force look like a bunch of nnnnnn wrapped into a circle that the coils cut as the rotor spins. However the strongest part of a magnet is the edge but the spread to its nearest opposing pole is short and the stator may not be able to cut it. So the most effective part is the middle of the magnet while its edge is the strongest and causes the most trouble.
If I fab it, I'll put much stronger magnets but will do them further apart so the edge to edge field will dominate the lines of force and it anyway cant move cos we're bolting them in.
To that end, does anyone have a knackered rotor I can show my friend and have him contemplate it - he can scan it and conjure up what can be done once we have the magnets and the #6 screws. I am still working on getting this bike of mine to run, hold the gauge up and have a headlight before even taking it on a shakedown run.