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My bike at low speeds has been surging, even at idle it was slightly erratic I had a guess it might have been fuel filter, bit surprised at the crud at the bottom of the pump housing, mostly a rusty paste. I've had the housing soaking in evaporate to clean it up, was thinking about sealing the bottom with a tank sealer to stop any further rusting. With a new filter in I'm looking forward to a clean ride again. Bike is nearly 95000klm is it common for the housing to rust like this?
 

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My bike at low speeds has been surging, even at idle it was slightly erratic I had a guess it might have been fuel filter, bit surprised at the crud at the bottom of the pump housing, mostly a rusty paste. I've had the housing soaking in evaporate to clean it up, was thinking about sealing the bottom with a tank sealer to stop any further rusting. With a new filter in I'm looking forward to a clean ride again. Bike is nearly 95000klm is it common for the housing to rust like this?
Looks normal to me. At least this was the condition of my lower pump housing when I cleaned it for the first time. Same mileage. I don't think it will ever rust because this part is at the lower spot of the tank and thus always in gas. But you could sand it down and spray it with something resistant to gas.

I am afraid that the high pressure filter (filter inside the pump housing) is clogged by now. The low pressure filter can be easily cleaned or even replaced. Should be cheap.

For the high pressure filter there are 3 solutions:

1. Buy new pump (very expensive)
2. Try to clean the internal filter using an ultrasonic cleaner
3. Do the filter bypass and you fix the issue once and for all. Lots of information about this on the forum. Just search for filter bypass.
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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Looks normal to me. At least this was the condition of my lower pump housing when I cleaned it for the first time. Same mileage. I don't think it will ever rust because this part is at the lower spot of the tank and thus always in gas. But you could sand it down and spray it with something resistant to gas.

I am afraid that the high pressure filter (filter inside the pump housing) is clogged by now. The low pressure filter can be easily cleaned or even replaced. Should be cheap.

For the high pressure filter there are 3 solutions:

1. Buy new pump (very expensive)
2. Try to clean the internal filter using an ultrasonic cleaner
3. Do the filter bypass and you fix the issue once and for all. Lots of information about this on the forum. Just search for filter bypass.


Why would you need to buy a new pump, you can just buy the high pressure filter module with regulator as an assembly.
-ms
 

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Looks normal to me. At least this was the condition of my lower pump housing when I cleaned it for the first time. Same mileage. I don't think it will ever rust because this part is at the lower spot of the tank and thus always in gas. But you could sand it down and spray it with something resistant to gas.

I am afraid that the high pressure filter (filter inside the pump housing) is clogged by now. The low pressure filter can be easily cleaned or even replaced. Should be cheap.

For the high pressure filter there are 3 solutions:

1. Buy new pump (very expensive)
2. Try to clean the internal filter using an ultrasonic cleaner
3. Do the filter bypass and you fix the issue once and for all. Lots of information about this on the forum. Just search for filter bypass.


Why would you need to buy a new pump, you can just buy the high pressure filter module with regulator as an assembly.
-ms
Yes I didn't state that correctly, i meant a new assembly, the plastic piece, no pump motor is required. But yet it's expensive.
 

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The filter can be back-flushed if you can sort out some way of pressurising a fuel system cleaner fluid.....you will be shocked how much crap comes out.....

Mine was so bad originally that i had to get the injectors cleaned professionally....the guy said they were squirting and it took some time to get them to run free...then he couldn't believe whole well they flowed.....had a lot of carbon build up in my combustion chambers that slowly burnt out and big improve in power

Or, there is a fuel filter bypass thread on here that shows you how to install an external and significantly cheaper canister filter, best one because of size is a Mahle KL145 or Mann MWK44....

These are only 50mm diameter.........

I have planned to do this for some time, but just haven't got around to it......
 

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I've recently replace a fuel filter on my 12 years old VStrom 1000 (it wasn't in bad condition) , they are cheap to buy on line. there are also a few videos to help doing this on UTube.
 

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The plastic mesh strainer is easily cleaned.....and just give the sump of the pump base a good clean...

As far as scottishbloke saying the filter is cheap online, what sort of money ? And where ? Fowlers in the UK quote around 230 pound for 03-05 and 380 pound for an 06 up one...
 

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Here is my configuration using a Mann filter. I went crazy and installed a heat shield on top of the fuel hose.

I believe the filter bypass is the best long term solution. You can easily change the filter once in a while and assure that you always have a clean filter.

IMHO, I don't find any negatives with this solution. You just need to use the correct hose type, quality made clamps and a good filter.

Ps. In the pic you can see my newly installed 54mm throttle bodies 😄
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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Here is my configuration using a Mann filter. I went crazy and installed a heat shield on top of the fuel hose.

I believe the filter bypass is the best long term solution. You can easily change the filter once in a while and assure that you always have a clean filter.

IMHO, I don't find any negatives with this solution. You just need to use the correct hose type, quality made clamps and a good filter.

Ps. In the pic you can see my newly installed 54mm throttle bodies 😄


And you swapped manifolds or modified your current ones so they do not restrict the 54mm units? 54mm units on 03/04 manifolds can have a tiny bit of over hang into the larger bore throttle body. I always modify or swap manifolds when converting.

Did you also make note of the vacuum aperture size delta on the vacuum nipples?

-ms
 

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Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
Joined
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Here is my configuration using a Mann filter. I went crazy and installed a heat shield on top of the fuel hose.

I believe the filter bypass is the best long term solution. You can easily change the filter once in a while and assure that you always have a clean filter.

IMHO, I don't find any negatives with this solution. You just need to use the correct hose type, quality made clamps and a good filter.
Thats what i want to do on mine......

What would be really cool, would be to be able to mount the filter inside the tank, but, the regulator needs to get its feed from the housing
of the OEM filter, and the fuel light thermistor needs to remain.... ( i dream out loud sometimes.....)
 

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Here is my configuration using a Mann filter. I went crazy and installed a heat shield on top of the fuel hose.

I believe the filter bypass is the best long term solution. You can easily change the filter once in a while and assure that you always have a clean filter.

IMHO, I don't find any negatives with this solution. You just need to use the correct hose type, quality made clamps and a good filter.

Ps. In the pic you can see my newly installed 54mm throttle bodies 😄


And you swapped manifolds or modified your current ones so they do not restrict the 54mm units? 54mm units on 03/04 manifolds can have a tiny bit of over hang into the larger bore throttle body. I always modify or swap manifolds when converting.

Did you also make note of the vacuum aperture size delta on the vacuum nipples?

-ms

I didn't bother with swapping or modifying the manifolds.. From the measurements I got, the difference is really small so it should not noticeably affect performance I think. Unless you think I should do so. If yes how do you modify them and maintain a smooth surface?

Regarding the second point, I am not sure what you mean. If I remember correctly I reused my existing vacuum lines (from the old throttle bodies) since my 03 uses only one IAP sensor. Are the vacuum lines of different diameter? Should I have used the vacuum lines of the newer bodies?
 

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Here is my configuration using a Mann filter. I went crazy and installed a heat shield on top of the fuel hose.

I believe the filter bypass is the best long term solution. You can easily change the filter once in a while and assure that you always have a clean filter.

IMHO, I don't find any negatives with this solution. You just need to use the correct hose type, quality made clamps and a good filter.
Thats what i want to do on mine......

What would be really cool, would be to be able to mount the filter inside the tank, but, the regulator needs to get its feed from the housing
of the OEM filter, and the fuel light thermistor needs to remain.... ( i dream out loud sometimes.....)
I guess you could think about
fabricating something to hold the pump regulator and thermistor, but for me it doesn't worth the effort.
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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Thats what i want to do on mine......

What would be really cool, would be to be able to mount the filter inside the tank, but, the regulator needs to get its feed from the housing
of the OEM filter, and the fuel light thermistor needs to remain.... ( i dream out loud sometimes.....)


You mean like earlier Suzuki fuel injected bikes. They had replaceable filters in the tanks.

-ms
 

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You mean like earlier Suzuki fuel injected bikes. They had replaceable filters in the tanks.

-ms
Yeah, more conventional types of filters...... me thinks that designers/engineers try to get too cute with stuff sometimes....mind yoiu, they dont care, its not like they
have to fix/maintain/pay with these things......
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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Yeah, more conventional types of filters...... me thinks that designers/engineers try to get too cute with stuff sometimes....mind yoiu, they dont care, its not like they

have to fix/maintain/pay with these things......


In my opinion it was done for several reasons.

Simplification - Earlier systems had return lines and external pressure regulators. New systems are both internally regulated and return fuel internally. This means less fittings, simpler delivery to the throttle bodies, and less complicated fuel tank.

These simplifications allows for a much more compact fuel delivery system and less parts.

Both of the above are also cost control measures I assume also. Manufacturing and supply chain is then much simpler.

All these things add up over time to help keep costs down, make the bike lighter and in most cases much easier to service. The older FI bikes you used to have to drain the tanks out to remove and such.

-ms
 

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Here is my configuration using a Mann filter. I went crazy and installed a heat shield on top of the fuel hose.

I believe the filter bypass is the best long term solution. You can easily change the filter once in a while and assure that you always have a clean filter.

IMHO, I don't find any negatives with this solution. You just need to use the correct hose type, quality made clamps and a good filter.

Ps. In the pic you can see my newly installed 54mm throttle bodies 😄


And you swapped manifolds or modified your current ones so they do not restrict the 54mm units? 54mm units on 03/04 manifolds can have a tiny bit of over hang into the larger bore throttle body. I always modify or swap manifolds when converting.

Did you also make note of the vacuum aperture size delta on the vacuum nipples?

-ms

I didn't bother with swapping or modifying the manifolds.. From the measurements I got, the difference is really small so it should not noticeably affect performance I think. Unless you think I should do so. If yes how do you modify them and maintain a smooth surface?

Regarding the second point, I am not sure what you mean. If I remember correctly I reused my existing vacuum lines (from the old throttle bodies) since my 03 uses only one IAP sensor. Are the vacuum lines of different diameter? Should I have used the vacuum lines of the newer bodies?
Any input on this Michael? There is plenty of time now with the quarantine to improve things on the SV 😄
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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Any input on this Michael? There is plenty of time now with the quarantine to improve things on the SV 😄


I always check or port match the manifolds. Any over hang has the potential to cancel out any improvements or maybe even make worse.

As far as the vac ports, no one ever seems to notice the difference in aperture size. Is it an issue? I don’t think in most cases it is but you are basically changing the filtering of the signal into the sensor.

-ms
 

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2003 SV1000S
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I always check or port match the manifolds. Any over hang has the potential to cancel out any improvements or maybe even make worse.

As far as the vac ports, no one ever seems to notice the difference in aperture size. Is it an issue? I don’t think in most cases it is but you are basically changing the filtering of the signal into the sensor.

-ms

Question....is the STVA on the 54mm bikes different ? Meaning, differnet plug, values ? IF so, does the 03 STVA bolt straight on ?
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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