[Masta' C]

Just got around to the 600-mile service (more like 800, ha ha!) on my time capsule of an '06. At the recommendation of a few forum regulars, I decided to pull the stator cover and add a little JB-Weld to the magnets as a preventative measure while I was changing the oil.

Well, I'm glad I did! One magnet had already migrated and I could tell the factory epoxy was getting orange and rather brittle throughout. This bike hasn't seen any real world use in its lifetime until the past month, so the degradation was clearly age related, not so much heat.

Tried to do the JB-Weld thing, but that was a mess. I did use it successfully to reseat the single displaced magnet, but there was no way I could get it to flow in between the magnets because the JB-Weld just migrated out of the channels due to the pull of the magnets, even when I let it set up for a while first. As a last resort, I ended up buying and trying QuikSteel putty, which claims a similar chemical resistance to JB-Weld and has a higher strength and temp rating than JB-Weld's similar steel bonding putty. We'll see how it holds up! It molded to the channels nicely, so I think it will be fine...

 

[Missing Link]

You would have needed to set up some barriers/fences (plastic) front and rear for the JB to fill the gap, and you
would need to do one at a time, with the fill point at the lowest position, let it go firm, and then turn the crank
till the next one was at the bottom.....

 

[oldbaldsob]

I used JB Weld epoxy (the two part mix) and as you said, it migrated a lot between the magnets. But I didn't let that stop me. I just put a crap ton of it on the flywheel, let it harden for a day, then rotated the engine to do the other half of the flywheel. Then I used a Dremel with a sanding attachment to grind off a lot of the JB weld to expose my magnet surfaces and made channels between them. Before and after pics in this post. You'll probably be okay with the route you went though. The next time you change the oil, you could pop off the case cover just to double check it.

 

[Masta' C]

Wow, considering the mess you started with, yours cleaned up nicely! Good coverage, too...I think yours would survive a nuclear blast direct to the engine cases!

The putty was actually really nice to work with. I'm kind of surprised I haven't seen it used or recommended more often. Regular JB Weld was great for reseating the magnet, but for filling the channels, I really don't think the putty can be beat! Turns a day long process into a 20-minute job. That said, I haven't seen anyone using the QuickSteel product, so I may be a bit of a guinea pig.

I have attached a pic showing the "putty job" prior to final cleaning, which I also did with a dremel. Fast and easy, looks great in the end and cures quickly.

With the magnets effectively glued to each other, there's simply no way they can migrate or pull inward toward the stator, but I'll definitely check everything at my next oil change. I gave each magnet a tug to check their adhesion, but didn't intentionally try to remove them.

Interestingly, my hub didn't have any (drain?) holes in it as I've seen on your bike and others.

 

[oldbaldsob]

....Interestingly, my hub didn't have any (drain?) holes in it as I've seen on your bike and others.

I think only 2006 and 2007 SV1000s had the holes in the flywheel. My 2006 didn't have them either. https://www.sv-portal.com/forums/1852321699-post38.html

 

[Missing Link]

So that pic is of the Quick Steel putty ?

Looks slick...

 

[Masta' C]

So that pic is of the Quick Steel putty ?

Looks slick...

Yes it is! Looked even better after a couple quick passes with a dremel and a sanding bit.

The putty is seriously easy to mold in place, just have to be fairly quick about it. I found the 5-minute working time was fine.

 

[realshelby]

Interestingly, my hub didn't have any (drain?) holes in it as I've seen on your bike and others.

Not sure exactly when Suzuki made the change, but the oil holes were eliminated in both SV and DL 1000 rotors. Sometime around 2005 seems to fit. All replacement rotors have no holes.

 

[Missing Link]

As an aside to this, well not completely aside....

Who, where , how, apart from Factory Pro, can a 4 degree advance key be got ?
And, why does the later flywheel/rotor cost so damn much ? Tried finding a second hand one, but....arrgghh

 

[schmidt314]

As an aside to this, well not completely aside....



Who, where , how, apart from Factory Pro, can a 4 degree advance key be got ?

And, why does the later flywheel/rotor cost so damn much ? Tried finding a second hand one, but....arrgghh

Early and late rotors are the same cost.
-ms

 

[Missing Link]

Wasn't really pointing at the later one being more exxy, just that it is exxy..... HA HA...

Any clues on the 4 degree key anyone ?

 

[Delaney2001]

Is so disgusting that Suzuki did not do a recall & fix on these. I went through 2 on mine. 1 thank goodness I got covered under warranty.

They really are amazing bikes. Miss mine!

 

[the-atc-kid]

I agree... Especially since it happened to so many bikes

 

[Masta' C]

Yeah, this is an incredibly well-documented problem. Shame on Suzuki.

I caught mine "early", so I'd definitely recommend this be one of the first things anyone picking up a used SV checks for.

 

[the-atc-kid]

I will DEFINITELY be doing this before my next rides on the 1000's, when the weather warms up. Is this a 650 issue as well?

 

[b4ke]

The quick steel version of job weld has a short lifespan.... it starts to degrade within 3 months.... so I would check it after 90 days. You will definitely notice a difference in coverage, color and condition from when you first did it. Hopefully it will not have come loose.

 

[Masta' C]

The quick steel version of job weld has a short lifespan.... it starts to degrade within 3 months.... so I would check it after 90 days. You will definitely notice a difference in coverage, color and condition from when you first did it. Hopefully it will not have come loose.

What!? Really? I haven't seen any reviews that speak to short-term degradation and guys use this stuff on motors all the time. What about it degrades?

And what do you mean about "coverage"? Unless it is exposed to double the temps it should be seeing at the stator side, I can't see it losing form or melting. Thoughts?

 

[b4ke]

Personal experience with that material.... multiple times I have used it to patch metal components, and every time within a few months I had to grind it off and do it again. I figured maybe it was me the first time, but many times I have had to do the same job with the quicksteel. That is without even subjecting it to high heat.... I can’t imagine how compromised heat would make it considering just a short time duration did it in for me. That’s why I was hopeful for you. Sorry if my experience is an outlier, but considering my materials proficiency, that is doubtful.

 

[b4ke]

Oh yeah, and relative to coverage.... It shrinks over time, enough so in my experience to recede from my initial application.

 

[Masta' C]

Holy crap! That's not good! And certainly not what it is advertised to do.

I'll pull the cover in a few weeks and update the thread if I find any issues. I feel pretty good about my fix, but we'll see...