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Is there a Fan relay somwhere?
No, it's controlled with the thermo-switch and powered over the green connector and fused with a 15A fuse...

D.
 

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This is the connector on the K3 wiring:
Gas Font Auto part Electric blue Plastic
Cable Gas Electric blue Auto part Electrical supply

Cable Automotive lighting Gas Wire Electrical supply
Automotive lighting Cable Gas Electrical wiring Wire


Is the K5+ any different?

D.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Same plug for all years, even the SV650 seems to have it.
---PS: this is a fix the problem thread. If the plug was the problem it would burn up sooner. Mine is 33250 with original plug.

I have a thought....
-whenever the green connector fails, the bike is running.
-failure can happen at any time or not at all.
-mileage does not matter.

With that in mind...
Electric motors increase in amp draw as they are used.
Electric motors increase in starting amp draw as they are used.

And then...
Spike amp draw (old fan) on a 15 amp fuse added to the draw from headlights and fuel pump and other ignition little bits could easily exceed the rating of the green connector. (the wire going into the green connector is only rated for about 30A).

I am going to add a relay to the fan.

I am willing to bet that people who ride in warmer climates find the green connector failing sooner, whilst people like me who only have their fan kick on if you idle too long may never see it. I believe it could be a usage hour issue with the fan, and there is really only one way to find out. (unless sombody who has a faild connector wants to wire it back and put a relay on the fan)
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Relay installation complete, tested, and explained!

This guide will show you how to install a relay that will reduce the electrical load to "THE GREEN CONNECTOR" by half! That way, instead of just bridging the connector, you are solving the problem all together.

1- remove your seat and pull out the fuse box. Locate the single orange wire that feeds to the fuses labeled fan, ignition, and signal.

2- Cut that orange wire about half way between the fuse box and where it comes out of the loom. Strip the wires back about 3mm.

3- set up a relay as shown in the second picture. You will need one meter worth of 14 gauge wire, and a relay rated for 40A at 12V (standard light/horn relay from the auto parts store)

4- make orange wire connections, be sure to slip shrink wrap over the wires BEFORE soldering them. 86 goes to the orange wire coming from the loom, 30 goes to the orange wire on the fuse box.

5- Mount the relay somewhere nice, I just attached it to the plastic under the main relay (see picture with my dirty finger pointing to it). Now route the last two wires 87 to the positive battery terminal and 85 to the negative.

6- solder on ring terminals to those two wires, shrink wrap over the wire first! Now bolt them down to the battery.

You now have a safe green connector! The problem being fixed, not just bypassed.
 

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can you add a schematic? not sure I understand what you did here
cheers,
He used the 'original' Orange wire off the ignition switch to power a relay, which then supplies power to the stuff that the orange wire originally did (ignition, turn signals and cooling fan). I changed the schematic (red):

Rectangle Building Schematic Font Slope


That's not such a bad idea, but personally I'd rather do that to headlights to also enjoy potentially lower voltage drop and brighter lights.

A fuse should be added to the wire going from the battery to the relay though.

D.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Not quite, I think.... lemme see if I can edit the drawing too... brb

Yea, I put the relay in just before that orange line goes into the fuse box, that way the relay only take power from ignition, fan, and turn signals. (feed to fuses 4,5, and 6)

Next post has the drawing...
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Try this diagram, its only the section around the fuse box so that people can look at it better. I will do a nice edit on the full drawing showing my edit to the Rectifier regulator as well. Just wanted to get this out for opinions. I made a 100 mile run on this setup yesterday with no problems. Going to do 1,600 miles next weekend :bigclap:

I also want to note that all connections are soldered, I would not dare to trust a push on to something that important.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Here is the full edit of my wiring diagram, including the relay and the Rectifier Regulator. The only part that I may change, is the 30A fuse. I may change it to a slow blow 30A, not sure if I can find one that fits in the factory fuse holder. But for now, it is working just fine. Didn't blow anything with every thing running at once.
 

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Merely adding this post to show the pics all at once as opposed to clicking on each individual image.

<img src="http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63500&d=1269012848">

<img src="http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63501&d=1269012848">

<img src="http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63502&d=1269012848">
 

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once the green connector is removed from the bike there is no way you can have any further problem with it.
Whilst this idea works , simply removing the green connector does as well it is the green connector at fault not the wiring lay out.
 

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once the green connector is removed from the bike there is no way you can have any further problem with it.
Whilst this idea works , simply removing the green connector does as well it is the green connector at fault not the wiring lay out.
I do have to report a blown fuse about 2 years after fixing the green connector. Related? I don't know. I was on a very long ride, came to a gas station, tried to start her up again and *nothing*... Found out it was a blown fuse. Didn't bother figuring out what happened and just replaced the fuse... everything ok since but I haven't fixed anything! So it could pop again... I'll have to go back home to see which fuse it was.
 

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I do have to report a blown fuse about 2 years after fixing the green connector. Related? I don't know. I was on a very long ride, came to a gas station, tried to start her up again and *nothing*... Found out it was a blown fuse. Didn't bother figuring out what happened and just replaced the fuse... everything ok since but I haven't fixed anything! So it could pop again... I'll have to go back home to see which fuse it was.
I discovered what blew out my fuse and it had nothing to do with the green connector. A resistor for my cheap handle-grip warmers fell off and left wires dangling around. Somehow they've only shorted out on my frame twice in a year (the 2nd time is when I discovered the problem).
 

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Getting stranded is the least of my worries... I don't want to end up like the OP (Jeff) and lose power in the corner and crash. I replaced mine some time ago with no ill effects. Mine was like new still.

Chris
Dittos. I replaced my green connector with individual 30A spade connectors, wrapped in heat shrink tubing and then wrapped with cold-shrink tape as a post in the green connector thread advised. This was at 30K miles and the OE green connector was in perfect shape. I never looked back, never second-guessed the job. I sleep well, now, too.
 

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Relay installation complete, tested, and explained!

This guide will show you how to install a relay that will reduce the electrical load to "THE GREEN CONNECTOR" by half! That way, instead of just bridging the connector, you are solving the problem all together.

1- remove your seat and pull out the fuse box. Locate the single orange wire that feeds to the fuses labeled fan, ignition, and signal.

2- Cut that orange wire about half way between the fuse box and where it comes out of the loom. Strip the wires back about 3mm.

3- set up a relay as shown in the second picture. You will need one meter worth of 14 gauge wire, and a relay rated for 40A at 12V (standard light/horn relay from the auto parts store)

4- make orange wire connections, be sure to slip shrink wrap over the wires BEFORE soldering them. 86 goes to the orange wire coming from the loom, 30 goes to the orange wire on the fuse box.

5- Mount the relay somewhere nice, I just attached it to the plastic under the main relay (see picture with my dirty finger pointing to it). Now route the last two wires 87 to the positive battery terminal and 85 to the negative.

6- solder on ring terminals to those two wires, shrink wrap over the wire first! Now bolt them down to the battery.

You now have a safe green connector! The problem being fixed, not just bypassed.

OMG, this is what you did. I thought I'd use a 4X4 relay the green connector's 2 1/2's plug to. Anyway this is a super easy mod, and I have an as yet un affected green connector seeing as it only has 975 dry and gentle dust free miles on it before a lot of unplugging, cleaning and replugging ensued with a frame swap and this and that.
OK I'll get on this shortly, BTW I am also running LED dominators and no running lights so I dont have a massive draw at all. I may still do this mod, but I'd be shocked if I am pulling 2 amps - maybe check with amp clamp or voltage drop at key turn and back calculate from there.
 
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