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So, I have to ask. If the wiring melts at these connectors and then renders partial if not major functions of electrical systems from working, then what's the point of having fuses on these bikes?
 

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So, I have to ask. If the wiring melts at these connectors and then renders partial if not major functions of electrical systems from working, then what's the point of having fuses on these bikes?

Primary reason for a fuse is for circuit protection.
A fuse will blow if :

The circuit is overloaded,for example, 20 amps passes through a 15 amp fuse - it will blow ( the center of the fuse strip will get hot,droop and then melt leaving the blow ends drooping down ).

A short circuit or accidental ground will let a very high current pass through the fuse and blow it ( the fuse strip melts so quickly it vaporizes and splatters the inside of the fuse body and leaves a silvery/black tarnish inside )

In the case of the melted connector causing the lights to fail or the 'green connector' issue, unless it shorts to ground it wont blow the fuse.

I think its down to Suzuki using 'marginal' gauge wire and the connectors situated where they are - it gets very hot in that area behind the head stock.

With the headlamps being permanently on and pulling 4.5 amps each( for a 55W bulb), over time the connector will get hot and eventually melt.
 

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My lights off too

I've started the SZ for the first time in a couple of month and my headlights are off like others describe in this thread. Was the connector block to blame before I start pulling the airbox off ? Any further updates would be appreciated.

Alan
 

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sorted sorted sorted.

quick post as still put bike back together.

if you lift tank take air box completely off , just behind the head stock there are 3 connectors green , yellow , and black i found a heavily burt connection yellow wire just cut it out and al sorted. RESULT
ALTERNATIVE SOLUTION

I had the same problem as most of you all: everything works except for the standard low light. To jump to the result: for me the WHITE wire in the YELLOW connector was fried. I could access it by just taking the lid of the airbox, instead of taking off the entire airbox (with all it's hard to reach connections).
 

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thats a pretty connector you have used to fix that.... What brand is it?

I dont have an issue with my headlights as suuch, but, my marker lights are useless..... If i put fresh incandescent or lED globes in them, they die within a few weeks......
I am not very good with electrics, so i am not sure if they run through that yellow plug by themselves or if they draw directly from the headlight wire......
It is strnage.....like i said, they work fine for a few weeks then die....have replaced the globe sockets as well.....

EDIT... just looked at a wiring diagram.... has a B/W wire, which is common to all globes, so its an earth or negative.....the other wire is BR....assume Brown? Which from your picture there isnt a brown..... suppose i will just have to trace it ....
 

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thats a pretty connector you have used to fix that.... What brand is it?

I dont have an issue with my headlights as suuch, but, my marker lights are useless..... If i put fresh incandescent or lED globes in them, they die within a few weeks......
I am not very good with electrics, so i am not sure if they run through that yellow plug by themselves or if they draw directly from the headlight wire......
It is strnage.....like i said, they work fine for a few weeks then die....have replaced the globe sockets as well.....

EDIT... just looked at a wiring diagram.... has a B/W wire, which is common to all globes, so its an earth or negative.....the other wire is BR....assume Brown? Which from your picture there isnt a brown..... suppose i will just have to trace it ....
Yes those connectors are great! Easy to use, easy to reach and you can connect & disconnect as many times as you want.
117607
IMG_9478 copy.jpg
 

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Ahhh.... so, you insert the bare wire and then lock it down...... i assume you would solder the wire to help it keep its uniformity.....
 

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Ahhh.... so, you insert the bare wire and then lock it down...... i assume you would solder the wire to help it keep its uniformity.....
That is indeed how it works.
For me this was perfect solution since i barely had any space where the wires are: no room for a tool to clamp the wire of room to be soldering. This was perfect.
 

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That is indeed how it works.
For me this was perfect solution since i barely had any space where the wires are: no room for a tool to clamp the wire of room to be soldering. This was perfect.
If you can possibly get to it again, it maybe worth plugging the wire entry points with dielectric grease to stop water getting in there....
 
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