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Hi all, and especially Jim from fastfromthepast.

I ordered these last week and today they arrived - I'm in Aus so used to slower postage than that, fantastic service Jim.

It's 8pm, just got home from work and I'm so pumped I'm going to the bike now to mount them. Fingers crossed all the OEM lines are long enough to make it work!

Will post pictures when it's done.

Cheers,

Winks
 

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New Purchase

Just Purchased a set of these from FastFromThePast.com. Been looking for some risers and these seemed like the best option for price and adjust ability. Im hoping I don't have to replace any stock cables:supsmiley: I'll post pics as well on installation. Jim, if you want to throw in free overnight shipping for a plug let me know .....nuge..nuge..wink..wink..

Psy
 

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I just bought an '03 SV1000S in the US. My wrists and shoulders were starting to bother me from the 30 minute ride home from where I purchased the bike. These are exactly what I'm looking for, I don't understand why the helibars cost so damn much. Is it safe to assume all stock SV1000S forks in the US are 46mm ?? Let me rephrase that, should I be buying the 46mm risers for my bike?
 

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I just bought an '03 SV1000S in the US. My wrists and shoulders were starting to bother me from the 30 minute ride home from where I purchased the bike. These are exactly what I'm looking for, I don't understand why the helibars cost so damn much. Is it safe to assume all stock SV1000S forks in the US are 46mm ?? Let me rephrase that, should I be buying the 46mm risers for my bike?
That's right.

I've just finished my own swap over, and credit to Jim and Fastfromthepast, they're great.

I think helibars, etc are so expensive because they can be adjusted more - with these I've found there is only 1 of the 4 set-up options that can be used, and from that position, adjustment is limited by the fairing in front and tank behind.

But for the money, A+++++, and I am heaps more comfortable!
 

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bar risers

Winkle02 I think you are confusing Heli bars with Converti Bars. The heli's are not adjustable in any way. The Converti bars are more adjustable than the Tarozzi but way more $$.

Helibars will provide 2" of rise (not sure of the pull back distance)
Tarozzi provide 70MM of rise ( 2.8 ") again not sure of the pull back distance.

Other than the price the big benefit I can see with the Tarozzi bars over the Heli's is the ability to adjust the angle the bars come off the fork tubes. Looks like you can position them more level (similar to Superbike bars), Cables and Fairing allowing. Mine should arrive today so I'll take some pics of the install for any interested.

Psy
 

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Winkle02 I think you are confusing Heli bars with Converti Bars. The heli's are not adjustable in any way. The Converti bars are more adjustable than the Tarozzi but way more $$.

Helibars will provide 2" of rise (not sure of the pull back distance)
Tarozzi provide 70MM of rise ( 2.8 ") again not sure of the pull back distance.

Other than the price the big benefit I can see with the Tarozzi bars over the Heli's is the ability to adjust the angle the bars come off the fork tubes. Looks like you can position them more level (similar to Superbike bars), Cables and Fairing allowing. Mine should arrive today so I'll take some pics of the install for any interested.

Psy
Yeah sorry mate, Convertibars is what I was thinking of. Helibars are just like our stock clipons (unadjustable) but further up and back.

For bar ends you can order some through Jim - being on the other side of the world though I just went to my local bike store and got a pair for $20.

Hope your install went well!
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I ordered bar ends at the same time from the supplier.....he recommended the 300grammes to counter any vibration....I chose a set which are almost same as stock ...only in chrome which I think look class....but I suppose any type will do according to personal taste.
 

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Sunofagun... those dont look too shabby...

The Heli-Bars look more OEM once they are fitted, but dont provide too much adjustment... Just up and Down the forks and angle in and out from the tank... My biggest beef with the Helibars is I can not rotate my brake-lever clockwise enough to suit my riding position.. right wrist ends up going numb after about an hour... And I spent WAY more than $130 on the Helibars...

These look pretty damn good... Let the forum know how longer jaunt fair for those of you that already have them.....
 

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Sunofagun... those dont look too shabby...

The Heli-Bars look more OEM once they are fitted, but dont provide too much adjustment... Just up and Down the forks and angle in and out from the tank... My biggest beef with the Helibars is I can not rotate my brake-lever clockwise enough to suit my riding position.. right wrist ends up going numb after about an hour... And I spent WAY more than $130 on the Helibars...

These look pretty damn good... Let the forum know how longer jaunt fair for those of you that already have them.....
I did a quick 300k the other day, and found it much better than stock - takes most of the weight off my wrists. Also, interestingly, makes me a bit more confident as it takes the riding position a little more upright and feels more like a naked.

I'm still fine tuning the position of handles, etc, but for the money I spent, I'm stoked!
 

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Doh!

"Get some Ends same time as the bars".....Face palm! I can be so dense sometimes. I'll have to order some from Jim as well (all ebay stuff looks so cheap). Bar ends in the Pics of the bars mounted on page 1 are so close to stock look I thought they were and never thought about it. Btw what size socket is needed to take that star shaped nut off the top triple?

Psy
 

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1"

AngelofDebt

Stock Clipons have about a 1" rise, so Helibars should give you an inch and these Tarozzi should give you almost 2" of rise. May not sound like a lot but I think the biggest benefit will be the ability to slightly adjust the angle they sit at. I hope to flatten them a bit. Nice to see another Atlantic Canadian on here!

Psy
 

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Bar risers installed

I have yet to take the pics however I felt I had better update the thread and add my 2 cents for any out there considering these. I'll start by saying that Im very picky and over all I feel these are an improvement. Having said that Im not convinced they are a better option than the heli bars even at the price. Having not tried the heli bars some of the following is speculation. The bars are quality built and much thought went into making them as universal and adjustable as possible which are strengths indeed but its those same qualities that my complaints arise. The bars themselves are chrome and my controls no matter how tight I turn the bolts/screws they will not stay put on them. They are pretty good but I still feel it takes less then desirable force to rotate them on the bar. In a addition the OEM bars had holes machined in them to match up with posts inside the switch housings to keep them in position. I ended up cutting these off and no SAFE amount of torque on the screws will keep them in place. I am VERY interested to hear how others solved this problem. Same feeling with the bolts holding the uprights in position and the fork clamps, clamped. they are Steel bolts in aluminum and I have tightened them as much as I dare but if I put a very good amount weight on my hands I can feel the bars move out of the position I placed them in. Finally the position the bars can be placed is SEVERELY limited by the front brake line and Throttle cables. However this is not the Bars fault in any way and they are not advertised to work with stock cables. Longer cables would alleviate this problem. I took 31/2 hrs. to find a position where the throttle cables will not bind on full lock and this is not what feels best to my hands which is unfortunate and the throttle cables are still stretched to the edge of my comfort zone. I will now be shopping for some longer cables. So in light of the cost of the bars and the additional money spent on Compatible bar ends and longer cables and the time it took to fab a mount for the Brake master cylinder I will most likely be close to the cost of the helibars which are designed for this bike and I assume will not suffer from any of my quibbles. Finally let me state again the quality of the bars is great and ordering from Jim Hinshaw is quick and smooth, I'm just thinking I might have preferred a more "plug and play" bar swap. If you on the other hand lust after cheap adjust ability, do not mind the work you are going to do with this swap and you want SS brake lines anyways this option may still be for you as I believe it will offer you more flexibility, just keep in mind my other points.

Psy
 

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I recently put a Gixxer 1000 front end on my bike, so I had to get different clip-ons to suit the fat forks.
I bought clip-ons with 3.5 " of riser from "Swatt" .
The cables, wiring and such all work - except the brake lines, but I had anticipated that and ordered longer stainless braided lines.
The end result is at least 1" higher, and maybe 1/2" less reach (closer to the seat).
One of these pics shows the levers very close to the fairing, but this is not an issue, there is clearance where needed for the fingers.
Overall, I am very please with the finished project, I have a much more comfortable riding position for my old bones and yet it still works at the track!
The pics are not the best, but...

 

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I have yet to take the pics however I felt I had better update the thread and add my 2 cents for any out there considering these. I'll start by saying that Im very picky and over all I feel these are an improvement. Having said that Im not convinced they are a better option than the heli bars even at the price. Having not tried the heli bars some of the following is speculation. The bars are quality built and much thought went into making them as universal and adjustable as possible which are strengths indeed but its those same qualities that my complaints arise. The bars themselves are chrome and my controls no matter how tight I turn the bolts/screws they will not stay put on them. They are pretty good but I still feel it takes less then desirable force to rotate them on the bar. In a addition the OEM bars had holes machined in them to match up with posts inside the switch housings to keep them in position. I ended up cutting these off and no SAFE amount of torque on the screws will keep them in place. I am VERY interested to hear how others solved this problem. Same feeling with the bolts holding the uprights in position and the fork clamps, clamped. they are Steel bolts in aluminum and I have tightened them as much as I dare but if I put a very good amount weight on my hands I can feel the bars move out of the position I placed them in. Finally the position the bars can be placed is SEVERELY limited by the front brake line and Throttle cables. However this is not the Bars fault in any way and they are not advertised to work with stock cables. Longer cables would alleviate this problem. I took 31/2 hrs. to find a position where the throttle cables will not bind on full lock and this is not what feels best to my hands which is unfortunate and the throttle cables are still stretched to the edge of my comfort zone. I will now be shopping for some longer cables. So in light of the cost of the bars and the additional money spent on Compatible bar ends and longer cables and the time it took to fab a mount for the Brake master cylinder I will most likely be close to the cost of the helibars which are designed for this bike and I assume will not suffer from any of my quibbles. Finally let me state again the quality of the bars is great and ordering from Jim Hinshaw is quick and smooth, I'm just thinking I might have preferred a more "plug and play" bar swap. If you on the other hand lust after cheap adjust ability, do not mind the work you are going to do with this swap and you want SS brake lines anyways this option may still be for you as I believe it will offer you more flexibility, just keep in mind my other points.

Psy
1. Controls - I drilled holes in the bars for my controls, which solves your problem. If you've already cut your tabs off, I'd suggest wrapping some electrical tape or rubber around the bar where your control goes - that will solve your problem.

2. Movement - I've had this problem too, but just didn't have it tightened enough. I've since snugged it up more, and it's fine now. There is the question about TOO much torque being applied to the forks I guess, but unless you crush the forks out of shape and weaken them, I can't imagine it being a huge issue?

3. Cable length - you should route the throttle cables out of the RIGHT hand hole in the frame (stock it comes out of the left then wraps around to come to the right handle bar) - my throttle cables are loose when configured like that. Brake lines have enough slack - I have braided lines and just had to route the left one under the steering stem, but otherwise, heaps of room. Not an issue unless you leave all the lines in their stock positions.

4. Cost - time is a valid cost, and I can't tell you how much your time is worth. However the $Bars + $Bar Ends = <<<<< $Helibars. To mount the brake master cylinder I bought a longer bolt and some washers for the bar mount (ie. the little allen head bolts that hold the bar in place on the riser), and mounted it there (ie. basically same place as stock) - no custom bracket needed. If you take the stock bracket and mount it upside down, it works fine (ie. the side that's normally attached to the reservoir attaches to the allen bolt of the bar, and the side that normally attaches to the stock clip ons attaches to the reservoir).

Issues solved? Worked for me...
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I too drilled bars to suit controls. Have experienced no problems with bars moving. Regarding cables is it possible that there is a difference on a K3 and K4. I have seen some K3 bars on ebay which definately looked lower than my stock bars....I didnt have to reroute any cables. Would it help if you slide the bars down the forks...say 10mm? Setting the bars did take a while but i found the best way was to position the forks in full lock then position bars/levers against the fairing (also considering the angle of the levers). I have to say I am still very pleased with the Tarozzi bars for the money.
 

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Bar risers

Thanks for your input guys. I almost drilled the bars but I didn't have a vise to hold them securely and I was afraid of screwing up the position. I warped some tape under them with no benefit but I think some thin rubber would do the trick. I also thought of trying to rout the throttle cables out the right of the steering head but I thought they would have a wicked right bend at the throttle bodies to do that. If you have had no problems routing the throttle cables out the right side I may give it a try.


"There is the question about TOO much torque being applied to the forks I guess"
I was more worried about the steel bolt striping out the aluminum clamp.

"Would it help if you slide the bars down the forks...say 10mm?"

Already done.

"Cost - time is a valid cost, and I can't tell you how much your time is worth. However the $Bars + $Bar Ends = <<<<< $Helibars. To mount the brake master cylinder I bought a longer bolt and some washers for the bar mount (ie. the little allen head bolts that hold the bar in place on the riser), and mounted it there (ie. basically same place as stock) - no custom bracket needed. If you take the stock bracket and mount it upside down, it works fine (ie. the side that's normally attached to the reservoir attaches to the allen bolt of the bar, and the side that normally attaches to the stock clip ons attaches to the reservoir).
"

I used a Dremel to cut off the bent portion of the stock bracket and mounted it on one of the bolts as well very similar as stock.
The cost was getting close to the Helibars when including the purchase of longer lines.
Hey I'll work at a DIY solution to safe cash any day but I just wanted others to know that this upgrade may not be a simple "plug and play" swap for everyone.

Psy
 
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