That's right.I just bought an '03 SV1000S in the US. My wrists and shoulders were starting to bother me from the 30 minute ride home from where I purchased the bike. These are exactly what I'm looking for, I don't understand why the helibars cost so damn much. Is it safe to assume all stock SV1000S forks in the US are 46mm ?? Let me rephrase that, should I be buying the 46mm risers for my bike?
Yeah sorry mate, Convertibars is what I was thinking of. Helibars are just like our stock clipons (unadjustable) but further up and back.Winkle02 I think you are confusing Heli bars with Converti Bars. The heli's are not adjustable in any way. The Converti bars are more adjustable than the Tarozzi but way more $$.
Helibars will provide 2" of rise (not sure of the pull back distance)
Tarozzi provide 70MM of rise ( 2.8 ") again not sure of the pull back distance.
Other than the price the big benefit I can see with the Tarozzi bars over the Heli's is the ability to adjust the angle the bars come off the fork tubes. Looks like you can position them more level (similar to Superbike bars), Cables and Fairing allowing. Mine should arrive today so I'll take some pics of the install for any interested.
I did a quick 300k the other day, and found it much better than stock - takes most of the weight off my wrists. Also, interestingly, makes me a bit more confident as it takes the riding position a little more upright and feels more like a naked.Sunofagun... those dont look too shabby...
The Heli-Bars look more OEM once they are fitted, but dont provide too much adjustment... Just up and Down the forks and angle in and out from the tank... My biggest beef with the Helibars is I can not rotate my brake-lever clockwise enough to suit my riding position.. right wrist ends up going numb after about an hour... And I spent WAY more than $130 on the Helibars...
These look pretty damn good... Let the forum know how longer jaunt fair for those of you that already have them.....
1. Controls - I drilled holes in the bars for my controls, which solves your problem. If you've already cut your tabs off, I'd suggest wrapping some electrical tape or rubber around the bar where your control goes - that will solve your problem.I have yet to take the pics however I felt I had better update the thread and add my 2 cents for any out there considering these. I'll start by saying that Im very picky and over all I feel these are an improvement. Having said that Im not convinced they are a better option than the heli bars even at the price. Having not tried the heli bars some of the following is speculation. The bars are quality built and much thought went into making them as universal and adjustable as possible which are strengths indeed but its those same qualities that my complaints arise. The bars themselves are chrome and my controls no matter how tight I turn the bolts/screws they will not stay put on them. They are pretty good but I still feel it takes less then desirable force to rotate them on the bar. In a addition the OEM bars had holes machined in them to match up with posts inside the switch housings to keep them in position. I ended up cutting these off and no SAFE amount of torque on the screws will keep them in place. I am VERY interested to hear how others solved this problem. Same feeling with the bolts holding the uprights in position and the fork clamps, clamped. they are Steel bolts in aluminum and I have tightened them as much as I dare but if I put a very good amount weight on my hands I can feel the bars move out of the position I placed them in. Finally the position the bars can be placed is SEVERELY limited by the front brake line and Throttle cables. However this is not the Bars fault in any way and they are not advertised to work with stock cables. Longer cables would alleviate this problem. I took 31/2 hrs. to find a position where the throttle cables will not bind on full lock and this is not what feels best to my hands which is unfortunate and the throttle cables are still stretched to the edge of my comfort zone. I will now be shopping for some longer cables. So in light of the cost of the bars and the additional money spent on Compatible bar ends and longer cables and the time it took to fab a mount for the Brake master cylinder I will most likely be close to the cost of the helibars which are designed for this bike and I assume will not suffer from any of my quibbles. Finally let me state again the quality of the bars is great and ordering from Jim Hinshaw is quick and smooth, I'm just thinking I might have preferred a more "plug and play" bar swap. If you on the other hand lust after cheap adjust ability, do not mind the work you are going to do with this swap and you want SS brake lines anyways this option may still be for you as I believe it will offer you more flexibility, just keep in mind my other points.