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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone.

Before anybody asks me about my clutch....

My bike has only 10 000 miles (16000 kms).
I have 0 strange vibrations, doesn't matter in which rpm range. Motor runs really vibrations-free, just the normal things you can expect from a 1000cc v-twin.
It makes the typical "maracas" sound and disappears when I pull the lever. But that doesn't annoy me, it will stay so till vibrations represent more cons than pros.

STPS is right on the mark.

After 2000kms of (always) hard riding I did noticed that the way the motor pulls the bike is pretty jerky when cruising or smooth on the throttle.

The best way I could describe it is, it feels like a "sequence of timed pullings". You can feel like three of this "pushes" every second, when you are cruising around 60mph, like injection related, I dont know.

When I disengage the clutch, everything dissapears, so it must be something that happens inside.

Something that I noticed too is, third gear produces inmediatly like a resonance noise under the fairing cowl... Weird thing is, I think my ex gsxr1000 k2 did the same....


So guys, if anyone can tell me if all this is normal or not... much appreciated
 

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Back up what oldbaldsob has said for sure..... you mentioned the STPS was correct, thats the Secondary TPS for the upper butterflies.....that needs setting AFTER you have done what oldbaldsob has said.

A lot of us have found that the TPS is best at -C00 at 1400 rpm, and when you gently increase revs the dash line will climb to the top at around 1750.....

Personally, the STPS is ideal by winding the secondary butterflies fully open, then unplugging the connector and adjusting for a reading of 4.38 ohm between the black and yellow wires
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited by Moderator)
Have you adjusted your throttle position sensor? Jerkiness at low RPM is is a common symptom of TPS problems that should vastly improve after TPS adjustment. It would be a good idea to balance the throttle bodies first prior to doing the TPS adjustment. Here is the TPS adjustment thread. Here's the throttle body synchronization thread. Good luck!:cool:
TPS line was in the middle 2 weeks ago.

I will try do the Throttle body synchronization and then tps again.
Back up what oldbaldsob has said for sure..... you mentioned the STPS was correct, thats the Secondary TPS for the upper butterflies.....that needs setting AFTER you have done what
oldbaldsob has said.

A lot of us have found that the TPS is bestt at -C00 at 1400 rpm, and when you gently increase revs the dash line will climb the top at around 1750.....

Personally, the STPS is ideal by winding the secondary butterflies fully open, then unplugging the connector and adjusting for a reading of 4.38 ohm between the black and yellow wires
I said STPS but i had just in mind my old gsxr 1000 k2.

I meant TPS.

I will try first to synchronize the throttle bodies abd then tps with 1400rpm.

I will take a look to the stps too.
 

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I'm on my third clutch basket with the first two stockers lasting about 14,000 miles each before they became so obnoxious I had to pull them out. Current basket is a Werks and it's been great!! When running the stock basket it's entirely possible to kill one bad in 10,000 miles depending on how hard it's been run and HOW it's been run. Full throttle shouldn't be applied below maybe 4000 and be careful with it down to around 3000 but don't lug it any lower or the powerful pulses made by the big jugs really start to beat on the poor basket. The clutch is basically the same as 'Busa uses so it's big enough to handle the horsepower but the individual torque pulses are greater on the SV so the springs in the cushioning system take a beating.

If the clutch is making noise at idle in neutral that goes away when you disengage the clutch...the basket is asking you to replace it. :) Worn basket makes 'judder' up to 4000 or so and your cruise feeling could very well be the clutch. While we're at it...a check on the magneto magnets is always a good thing being with age we're seeing a bunch coming loose. When this happens they'll all slide together making an unbalance that can excite things it shouldn't. Clutch vibrations are an insidious thing as they begin slowly and accumulate gradually which is not readily apparent until they get so bad you finally say 'Hey..somethings wrong here'. The real revelation is when you put in the fresh basket then marvel at how smooth the SV motor actually is. 'Normal vibes for a Big Twin' really doesn't apply with the SV...when tight they run so much smoother than many other V-Twins without balance shafts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm on my third clutch basket with the first two stockers lasting about 14,000 miles each before they became so obnoxious I had to pull them out. Current basket is a Werks and it's been great!! When running the stock basket it's entirely possible to kill one bad in 10,000 miles depending on how hard it's been run and HOW it's been run. Full throttle shouldn't be applied below maybe 4000 and be careful with it down to around 3000 but don't lug it any lower or the powerful pulses made by the big jugs really start to beat on the poor basket. The clutch is basically the same as 'Busa uses so it's big enough to handle the horsepower but the individual torque pulses are greater on the SV so the springs in the cushioning system take a beating.

If the clutch is making noise at idle in neutral that goes away when you disengage the clutch...the basket is asking you to replace it. :) Worn basket makes 'judder' up to 4000 or so and your cruise feeling could very well be the clutch. While we're at it...a check on the magneto magnets is always a good thing being with age we're seeing a bunch coming loose. When this happens they'll all slide together making an unbalance that can excite things it shouldn't. Clutch vibrations are an insidious thing as they begin slowly and accumulate gradually which is not readily apparent until they get so bad you finally say 'Hey..somethings wrong here'. The real revelation is when you put in the fresh basket then marvel at how smooth the SV motor actually is. 'Normal vibes for a Big Twin' really doesn't apply with the SV...when tight they run so much smoother than many other V-Twins without balance shafts.
I definitely will check the magnets in winter.
That with the clutch basket, I have really no problems with vibrations, its just what I described, the way it pulls sometimes (cruising, low on gas) is a bit jerky.

I will check first throttle bodies and then recheck tps.
 

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One of the symptoms of a waning fuel pump (or clogging filter) is that the bike runs better with a full tank and seems to struggle when it's getting low. With an electric pump the amount of fuel in the tank shouldn't matter so that's a big red flag.
 

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One of the symptoms of a waning fuel pump (or clogging filter) is that the bike runs better with a full tank and seems to struggle when it's getting low. .........
Agree totally, though, i will add this....i had that symptom on mine, and when i fitted the bypass fuel filter set up, that issue went away...on my bike at least....
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So guys, throttle bodies were near perfect. I can only think about the fuel pump hp filter now....
16000km/10000 miles in nearly 20 years could be the reason.... I have nothing to lose.

In the vstrom post I found different information from the creator.
He states first a 4-5mm hole, then he says 2-3mm.

Pictures are more like 4-5mm, so what's the correct diameter?

Do I need to replace the pump?


Thx
 

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Diameter isn't critical at all...4-5mm will work just fine. The pump is likely OK if it's still running. You could do the 'fuel volume' test before the bypass and after to verify its' health. I'm really doubting that the filter is causing your issue...when the filter clogs the power just goes away especially up on top unless it's SO clogged the pressure is dropping badly. The filter bypass is a good thing..even if it doesn't fix your problem...it's worth doing. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Diameter isn't critical at all...4-5mm will work just fine. The pump is likely OK if it's still running. You could do the 'fuel volume' test before the bypass and after to verify its' health. I'm really doubting that the filter is causing your issue...when the filter clogs the power just goes away especially up on top unless it's SO clogged the pressure is dropping badly. The filter bypass is a good thing..even if it doesn't fix your problem...it's worth doing. Good luck!
I want to do the mod anyway, I need to discard possible candidates.

Clutch and rotor will be redone in winter. I already found a workshop here in Germany who does the clutch job for 300€ shipping included.
 

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The best filter for the jobin terms of capacity and dimensions is the Mahle KL145....not cheapest thing out there, but good....
I have recently found that the 31.760.00 UFI Fuel Filter is the same, and seems to be a good deal cheaper.
One thing to remember, once the bypass is done properly, when you disconnect the fuel line under the tank, fuel will freely run out, so pinch the
hose with a fuel line clamp first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The best filter for the jobin terms of capacity and dimensions is the Mahle KL145....not cheapest thing out there, but good....
I have recently found that the 31.760.00 UFI Fuel Filter is the same, and seems to be a good deal cheaper.
One thing to remember, once the bypass is done properly, when you disconnect the fuel line under the tank, fuel will freely run out, so pinch the
hose with a fuel line clamp first.
I already ordered that UFI for 16€ shipped. What is the best way to put the filter inline? Is the fuel line made of rubber? I am considering buying fast fuel line connectors like the attached picture for the rubber lines
 

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I just used normal EFI rated fuel hose clamped to the original quick connect fittings.
VERY carefully cut the OEM (stiff) hose off the fittings. kinda like peeling a grape, as there is an oring under it, that is well worh keeping intact .....then using (i think) 5/16" EFI hose
and EFI hose clamps, the ones wth a cross over band.
I made the hose to replace the oem one wise in a point to point length, then laid the filter in the poisiotn to determine where to cut the hose to graft it in.... cut long, not short, you can always
trim more off.
See where i laid mine in this link HP fuel filter bypass
 
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