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I fixture up the OEM high pressure filter units with a pump. I reverse flow them through my hot ultra sonic with a water based cleaner. I am still on the same filter for 152,000 miles. I have a new one I will swap in at some point when convenient.
-ms
You Mr Schmidt are just way too teched up.... ha ha....I did do that a long time ago, but very low tech....flushed with fuel system cleaner, soaked for 24 hours first, then forced it through "gently" with air pressure, refilled and again....amazing how much crap came out....

I just like the idea of the external unit, as "outa sight outa mind" doesn't help with the internal unit...

On a side note, it would be good to be able to get rid of the internal one (the reg being the issue)....would gain probably 400ml of fuel space....
Here's the link to what I'm using:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/193218340414

Meant to respond earlier but work is nuts right about now.
 

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When you do this mod, do you leave the original HP filter in place?
Yes, but, you need to drill a 2mm hole into the filter housing to bypass it. If you don't there won't be enough pressure in the system for the engine to run. BEFORE YOU DRILL OUT ANYTHING LOOK AT THE DL1000 FORUM LINK SO THAT ITS DONE CORRECTLY.

It's a simple process if done correctly, however, it's also easy to screw up if you don't research what you should do first. Read the write up twice then do the work. I'm a big advocate of measure twice cut once since I have a book of regrets for doing things the opposite way haha.
 

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I saw the write up and the diagram showing where/how to drill. Seems easy enough (I'm fairly mechanically inclined). I figured the original filter would stay in place, but thought I'd double check.

I'm still on the fence about doing this mod, but seems like a good time to do it while replacing some of the lines.

How often are you changing that Mahle filter? Seems like it could go a long time...
 

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The filter housing has to stay for 3 reasons....

1. It is how the pump is held in position
2. The fuel pressure reg is mounted on that housing...and so is the fuel level sender.
3. It also provides a "manifold" to direct the fuel from the pump to the outlet.

I incorrectly said the other day that removing the filter would add 400ml of fuel to the tank,
but in effect, it would only be less than 100ml, as the filter is full anyway, and it would only
be the space taken by the plastic walls of the housing that would be robbing space....
 

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I saw the write up and the diagram showing where/how to drill. Seems easy enough (I'm fairly mechanically inclined). I figured the original filter would stay in place, but thought I'd double check.

I'm still on the fence about doing this mod, but seems like a good time to do it while replacing some of the lines.

How often are you changing that Mahle filter? Seems like it could go a long time...
I actually did the change a few weeks ago so for now I haven't had to service the filter.
 

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Unless you know you are gettin gdubious fuel, then if you cant get 10k miles or better, maybe 15k, then i would be surprised..... the original filter lasts without "noticeable" issues for enormous mileage, so changing it out at 10-15k miles is gonna be perfectly good......
 

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I was thinking a larger filter like the Mahle would probably be good for at least as long as the stock filter. I'm sure its filter surface area is much larger than stock and it's not uncommon to get 60K-100K out of a fuel filter that size on a car (heck, most people never change them!).

The Holley/Earl's filter I posted seems it should easily go 10K-15K between cleanings. I'd be hesitant to push that one much farther, though.
 

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That might depend, on whether you backflushed, or cleaned out the highpressure filter. The bypass may allow sediment to migrate from the stock filter to the new bypass.
 

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Yeah the Earls will need servicing every second service, but, at least it is washable.....
If you have a spare filter block, you can leave it in a cleaning solution for ages between services and
it will be ready to go next time around, almost no downtime at all then
 

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That might depend, on whether you backflushed, or cleaned out the highpressure filter. The bypass may allow sediment to migrate from the stock filter to the new bypass.
I definitely flushed the system. I emptied out all of the fuel since I'm getting the tank and fairings painted Porsche Miami Blue. I've gone this far on my project so I might as well get it exactly how I want it haha. Wish I could make this thing pump out 130hp without dropping a bunch of extra cash.
 

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I recently did the filter bypass. Initially, I bought a wixx 33095 which is small, but read that it's not recommended for Fi use so I decided to buy a larger filter, the Mann Mwk44 filter which is a cross reference to the Mahle kl145(80psi, 10 microns). Needs attention to find the correct size of the fuel hose to ensure the tank can be up and down without kinking the fuel hose. I even plan to add a protective on top of the fuel line just for safety. Used proper Fi clamps.
 

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Neat install.....

I have not got around to doing this yet, but, i was considering using a neat fitting spring on the hose to prevent the kinking....

And, what the hell is that air filter setup? LOL
 

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Ahhh, i see said the blind man....

How much extra induction noise do you get from that ?
 

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Ahhh, i see said the blind man....

How much extra induction noise do you get from that ?
A lot! I wear ear plugs so it is not an issue anymore. Nice quality filter. Just needs attention when washing the bike as it's easy for water to get on top of the filter.
 

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First 1000 km with the filter modification and all is good. I noticed a small fuel consumption increase but it must be that the internal filter was already restricting the flow. I plan to replace filter at 10k. And then every 20-30k.. I even ordered this for wrapping the rubber fuel line for extra protection...
 

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First 1000 km with the filter modification and all is good. I noticed a small fuel consumption increase but it must be that the internal filter was already restricting the flow.
The reduced fuel flow may have had an effect on the fuel usage i would say.....

Standard air boxes with the snorkel fitted usually out perform a more open fileter assembly with power and fuel because
the airflow from the snorkel "fills" the air box above the filter more evenly, because without that, the throttle body that has the most direct flow
tends to get the best of the air......that is what i have been told and have read elsewhere....
 
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