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2003 SV1000s (YC2)
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Standard air boxes with the snorkel fitted usually out perform a more open fileter assembly with power and fuel because
the airflow from the snorkel "fills" the air box above the filter more evenly, because without that, the throttle body that has the most direct flow
tends to get the best of the air......that is what i have been told and have read elsewhere....
I think that issue is more relevant when comparing stock with simply removing the snorkel but leaving the oem top and opening, which is still about the same size as the snorkel but with sharp edges.
 

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Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
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Finally did the Mahle KL145 filter mod......
I have to say, i love it..... the old filter must have been so crapped out.... the bike goes like a cut cat now....serious punch in the butt when you tap it open....

Cant recommend this mod highly enough

Just makes the TPS a bit a monster to adjust......

Also, because of the bypass job on the in tank filter, the fuel runs out when disconnected.......am going to make a small plug for the fuel line connector for that....

117559
 

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Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
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As an edit....... noticed that my idle speed has dropped about 200.... strange....
Also, fueled up today, having added 110km (65 or so miles) since the filter and reg job (sep post) and allowing for some fuel lost during the fit-up, had to put at lest 600ml more fuel
in than usual....... might be just an anomoly.......but i would have thought she would be better, or at least the same on mileage......

Will wait to see what the full tank gives me..... Then it may be balance / TPS / PC3 tune-up time.......

Have noticed a little more valve train noise since as well........:unsure:
 
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When my bike was totally stock it got its' best fuel economy just before I decided that the filter must be clogged. Giving the injectors full pressure and volume will often not increase your fuel mileage....especially if the rider is enjoying the newfound power he/she had been missing. It would be perfectly normal to need to alter the idle speed as the fuel being injected is likely at a higher pressure now and the SV's tend to be mapped on the fat side of Horrible Fat. This could also be your increased valvetrain noise...carbon buildup on the valve face and seat add clearance....might need to go out and wring it's neck a bit and see if you can't clean it up? I've installed water injection on vehicles before so I can give them a little squirt here and there and have found the steam keeps things nice and clean!
 

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Yeah, the valve train noise has settled a bit.....she didn't have to wait long before i gave her a flogging...... damn this is nice....

I am figuring i might trim the map down a little once i get a couple of reads on what fuel it is using...... does smell a bit rich....
 
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I just did the HP filter mod during the weekend - might have been a little early based on distance, but it's nice to be ahead of schedule.
However I think there is a little air trapped in the filter (K145, had it laying on the shelf brand new inbox form back when I had a BMW K100). Flicking on/off the fuel pump and it keeps priming forever. Usual it stops after 1-2 cycles (because of adequate pressure I believe).
 
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Disturbed, very...
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................... Flicking on/off the fuel pump and it keeps priming forever. Usual it stops after 1-2 cycles (because of adequate pressure I believe).
True...it should stop once pressure is reached....and laying on its side, the new filter will have a little air trapped in the highest side, but, really it shouldn't be a problem.
Most of that will disappear after a few good bumps....ha ha....

When you pulled the pump apart to do the drill work, did the corrugated seal between the pump and filter housing or, the fat o-ring between the base plate
and filter housing get damaged ?
Where they dislodged and maybe not installed again ?

When i pulled my pump apart, the base plate o-ring actually pulled off the base plate and was stuck up inside the filter housing, i retrieved it and put it back on the base
plate.....is it possible the same has occured, but, assuming this is the first time you have had this apart, you were none-the-wiser, and put it back together without the
o-ring in place ?

The other thing is the pressure regulator, is it fitted properly.....
 

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True...it should stop once pressure is reached....and laying on its side, the new filter will have a little air trapped in the highest side, but, really it shouldn't be a problem.
Most of that will disappear after a few good bumps....ha ha....

When you pulled the pump apart to do the drill work, did the corrugated seal between the pump and filter housing or, the fat o-ring between the base plate
and filter housing get damaged ?
Where they dislodged and maybe not installed again ?

When i pulled my pump apart, the base plate o-ring actually pulled off the base plate and was stuck up inside the filter housing, i retrieved it and put it back on the base
plate.....is it possible the same has occured, but, assuming this is the first time you have had this apart, you were none-the-wiser, and put it back together without the
o-ring in place ?

The other thing is the pressure regulator, is it fitted properly.....
To be honest I don’t remember at all - but putting it all together i remember that it felt like everything seated properly. At some point when the tank is nearing empty it might take it apart just to make sure everything is as it should be. Only thing i noticed was how surprisingly clean the inside of the tank and LP filter was. Maybe it has been cleaned before or maybe the previous owner just took good care and didn't dumb too much soil into the tank.
You are right about the ever priming fuel pump - when the bike is running it's probably close to 100% duty cycle anyway. Over time some more trapped air will escape, and with no trouble firing it back up the first time there shouldn't be any worries.
 
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If, before you hit the starter button, the pump just keeps priming, then it probably is going to be going elsewhere, i would definetly have a look in the tank again.....

The biggest culprit will be number 7, must be on the spigot and a teen bit of oil to lube it....or number 6, has to be fitted to the pump spigot.....
I saw a pump, not in an SV, that the guy had put the equivelant to number 7 up in the pump, probably cause it peeled off on removal, which mine did last time, and the put it together that way......
117635
 

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If, before you hit the starter button, the pump just keeps priming, then it probably is going to be going elsewhere, i would definetly have a look in the tank again.....

The biggest culprit will be number 7, must be on the spigot and a teen bit of oil to lube it....or number 6, has to be fitted to the pump spigot.....
I saw a pump, not in an SV, that the guy had put the equivelant to number 7 up in the pump, probably cause it peeled off on removal, which mine did last time, and the put it together that way......
View attachment 117635
Thanks. I was probably a little vague in my description. It does get to the point when the pump stops priming. However if I keep flipping the kill switch it will prime every time - maybe I'm wrong but to my memory it would not keep priming at each kill switch on/off before i fitted the filter. But nots really a problem. I've been commuting 250km this week and just had another 230km trip to the family vacation home. It's running perfectly fine.
However I will just check the pump assembly to be 100% sure every seal is in the correct place next time the tank is almost empty and I have a little extra time.
 

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Disturbed, very...
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.......................However if I keep flipping the kill switch it will prime every time - maybe I'm wrong but to my memory it would not keep priming at each kill switch on/off before i fitted the filter.....................
Thats normal..... don't worry about it....
I did notice, that my pump was a little more "vocal" ha ha, with the new filter.....possible that the filter itself was acting like a speaker and adding to the chorus.....
 
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KNEE DRAGGER
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Thanks. I was probably a little vague in my description. It does get to the point when the pump stops priming. However if I keep flipping the kill switch it will prime every time - maybe I'm wrong but to my memory it would not keep priming at each kill switch on/off before i fitted the filter. But nots really a problem. I've been commuting 250km this week and just had another 230km trip to the family vacation home. It's running perfectly fine.
However I will just check the pump assembly to be 100% sure every seal is in the correct place next time the tank is almost empty and I have a little extra time.
The priming of the pump is ECU controlled so it is set to a specific time, then shuts off. ECU then sends a signal when the bike spins over to start the pump again. The should prime each time you toggle the switch as long as it has been shut off for more than 3 or 5 seconds I believe. So if it primes and you just toggle the switch real quick it likely will not prime. Flip switch off for 3-5 seconds, and switch back on and it should run through the three second prime.

These bikes have no fuel pressure feed back sensing circuit to feed data back to ECU.

-ms
 

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Disturbed, very...
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Yeah, the valve train noise has settled a bit.....she didn't have to wait long before i gave her a flogging...... damn this is nice....

I am figuring i might trim the map down a little once i get a couple of reads on what fuel it is using...... does smell a bit rich....
Just a side note to this earlier post of mine.......

The old girl is definetly using more fuel...... say at 220km i would be at 11.7 litres almost always....but, that has gone to 12.8 - 13.2 dependant on wrist action......
Thought, yeah, i will check the tune ....but with a lot of stuff happening lately, i have only just got to it.

Dont know what might have happened, but my PC3 had NO map in it...not a zero map, as in unmodified, nothing, nada, zilch.....not even zeros in the cells, empty.... Weird as....

Now, about the same time as i did the filter, and from what i can remember, i think i did the fuel filter whilst the tank was up, is when my reg/rec connector blew, and the battery ran down to under 10v.....the battery survived the ordeal, and
after swapping in a spare while that charged, the bike was revived. Now, i have removed the battery leads plenty of times over the years, without any issues to the PC3, so, i am wondering why it may have lost the map...?
I reloaded it, turned the bike on and off several times, and it has stuck the map ok now.....
 
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I just did the high pressure fuel filter bypass mod and am glad to say it worked flawlessly.
I had an issue where my bike would lose power around 6/7000 RPM.
I replaced the fuel pump and backwashed the sending unit/filter a few months ago because I was having fuel issues.
It worked for a while but then I started losing power in the upper RPMS.
I drilled through the hp filter housing to bypass it and installed an inline filter. I guess the power loss was gradual because now my bike feels like a brand new machine. It’s doing power wheelies in first at half throttle, and pulling harder the higher I take the revs. My bike is an 05 with over 50k miles so this was probably way over due, but if anyone is having similar issues with a loss of power in upper RPMS I recommend this mod.
I just did the high pressure fuel filter bypass mod and am glad to say it worked flawlessly.
I had an issue where my bike would lose power around 6/7000 RPM.
I replaced the fuel pump and backwashed the sending unit/filter a few months ago because I was having fuel issues.
It worked for a while but then I started losing power in the upper RPMS.
I drilled through the hp filter ... Can you post pick of where you drilled my doing same thing thanks
 
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