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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to start upgrading and get a little faster. I have a 2003 sv1000s. I been looking at the m4 exhaust but I am open to suggestions. I am also going to get a pc but not sure which one to buy. I was also thinking about the sprocket too. Where should I start first.
 

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Suspension 1st, Brakes 2nd (braided lines, HH pads), then maybe more power. Not that much power to be had.
Yup, manage a higher average speed with brakes and suspension and you don't need to accelerate so hard from a corner
 
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M4 makes a good exhaust system and it'll give you a little more power...and don't let anyone tell you there isn't quite a bit more hiding inside the engine cases...because there is! However..there's not much 'low hanging fruit' to pick so to speak, so if you want more power you're going to have to work a bit for it. The Sprint air filter element is a nice addition that frees up a bit of power. The stock K3-4 intake snorkel is really too long and they made it shorter in K5+ bikes to make better power. Be sure there's a snorkel in the airbox! Taking it out only makes more noise and actually hurts the torque production. Make sure the engine has fresh plugs and is tuned properly...including valve adjustment. Remove the STV plates...they're just restrictions and do nothing to help you. The K3-4 engines have a very heavy alternator rotor...K5+ have a lighter one by about 2 lbs which makes for a much snappier motor.

Most 'lack of power' complaints come down to fuel system problems....clogging inlet screen or HP filter. Beyond these simple things you're now looking at adjusting the cam phasing, cutting material off of the top surface of the jugs to raise compression while decreasing the squish clearance. Set the cams at 106/109 to start and with the M4 (and the rest of the other things) you'll have the majority of the potential to be had.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well I appreciate the info. There is a lot of nay sayers out there. Unfortunately I just replaced the rotor with an OEM part because I couldn't get any straight answers about another rotor that fit. I wish I would've known about the k5. That's 25% lighter. When I purchased the bike the snorkel was gone but I will definitely get one. What is your opinion about the inline for the hp filter. I saw a way to bypass the one on the fuel pump but I wasn't to sure. It seemed a little invasive
 

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The stock fuel filter is a tiny little wedge of paper element and they clog pretty easily .....so the bypass is a good thing. External filters are $10 or less while the factory wants $250+ for a new one! First job when even thinking about more power is to make sure you're getting full fuel pressure at all times...and the stock filter element is really working against us in this area.
Years ago I put a K&N filter monitor on my airbox to measure the restriction and found the stock filter to flow decently...but not as well as the K&N. Sprint makes a dry filter that flows as well or better and is easier to maintain...so that's what we're running now. And funny enough, when people remove the snorkel thinking they are removing a restriction the actual airbox restriction goes UP! It can fool you into thinking it's making more power by the increased induction roar and the way it feels when the engine comes up into the powerband but it's mostly from a reduction in bottom end that you're feeling and not an increase in top end.
 

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I wish I would've known about the k5. That's 25% lighter.
It is possible to macine he K3/4 version down to remove over 3 pounds of weight from it.

A member of the site, i think, estevns, has the tech drawing of that machine work posted on here somewhere. You can leave the magnets in place, which i hope you have JB welded, and
mask up the internals to keep the swarf off the magnets....
 

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You think I should still jb the magnets even tho it is a brand new rotor
Without any doubt...... its not distance that kills the gllue, its the oil and heat.....
 
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