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Discussion Starter #1
So, my bike has started to idle very low and then die out after I start it up. This has happened while I'm on the road, too.

I've increased the idle, only for it to fall and die out again. I've raised it even more to be safe, but then I'm idling close to 2,000rpm (which is very annoying at stoplights, especially with D&D pipes). I can't seem to get it to stay in that sweet spot of 1,500rpm. That's about where it used to be before it began to have this issue.

I'm thinking it might be time for a valve check and some new spark plugs. I've got a little over 26,000mi. on the clock and haven't done either (My mechanic whom I use for certain jobs actually told me not to check the valves unless I was having issues, when I inquired about it last year, or the year before).

I put a new battery in a few months ago.

Any guesses what the issue might be and what I should do about it?
 

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I would be starting with TPS settings. There are threads about how to do that on here.
You need to balance the throttle bodies first, then do the TPS and the STPS ...

THe next thing MIGHT be a blocked fuel filter......
 
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I don't know that the valves will be out of spec, they sometimes never need any adjustment. But they should be checked just the same.

26,000 miles on factory spark plugs is a lot. These will show a lot of wear.

I would certainly arrange for a valve clearance check, install new spark plugs, test/adjust the Throttle Position Sensor, carefully inspect the throttle body boots for being loose and/or having slipped out of place ( common vacuum leak, which could cause your problems....), then do a proper throttle body synchronization.

Typically the TPS unit only acts up when engine is hot. While it cannot be ruled out, I doubt it is causing your issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Good call on the TPS/throttle bodies, guys. I wasn't thinking about that. I did the TPS about ten years ago when I got the bike, and never thought to check it again.
 

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realshelby brought up a valid point, if it is sucking air in where it shouldn't it will be a pig for sure......
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Update: It also backfires a lot, is incredibly snatchy off throttle, and still will not maintain a constant idle. It's incredibly annoying to have to give it gas to keep if from dying when slowing down and gearing down for stoplights and sudden instances of gridlock on the highway. I've also noticed there are a lot of vibrations in the mirrors. And it just doesn't feel like the power is there, either. I will definitely try a TB synch and TPS adjustment. I got off to a false start on the TPS adjustment yesterday.
 

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[MENTION=16685]RC.[/MENTION], I'd check those valve clearances first. :niceone:
 

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Get the balance done as best you can, BEFORE the TPS.....the balance can upset the TPS.... Then, if it is running alot better after the TPS, then re-do the balance/TPS....

If the bike has been ou tof kilter for a while, then you combustions chambers can be sooted up, and once it is running well and you give her a good flogging, that crap
can be dislodged, and the bike may be a little off again, so a quick tickle will put it right for a long time
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Get the balance done as best you can, BEFORE the TPS.....the balance can upset the TPS.... Then, if it is running alot better after the TPS, then re-do the balance/TPS....

If the bike has been ou tof kilter for a while, then you combustions chambers can be sooted up, and once it is running well and you give her a good flogging, that crap
can be dislodged, and the bike may be a little off again, so a quick tickle will put it right for a long time
I was thinking along those same lines, but figured it was so much easier to do than a TB synch that I might as well just tinker with it to see if I could make any improvement in the meantime, but that blew up on me real quick. I'm going to hold off until the TBs are synched, as you say.
 

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Yeah, the valve check isn't a quick job unless you've done it many times. It took me the better part of a day to do mine on my '05 rebuild. But if you enjoy tinkering and getting to know your bike more intimately, getting hold of the online service manual, some valve shims (I got a nice set on eBay for around $50-$60), and diving in is a great way to learn and know that it's done right. All the money you save can buy a whole lot of beer! :beer:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah, the valve check isn't a quick job unless you've done it many times. It took me the better part of a day to do mine on my '05 rebuild. But if you enjoy tinkering and getting to know your bike more intimately, getting hold of the online service manual, some valve shims (I got a nice set on eBay for around $50-$60), and diving in is a great way to learn and know that it's done right. All the money you save can buy a whole lot of beer! :beer:
Thanks for that link. Can you share some info on the valve shim set?
 

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[MENTION=16685]RC.[/MENTION], I got a nice set of Hot Cams valve shims that have a few shims of each size in order to adjust the valves in the specified ranges. I'm keeping my 2 SV1000s forever so I'll never need to worry about trying to source specific shim sizes in the future. It looks like the Hot Cams shims have gone up in price since I got mine a couple of years ago. But I noticed there are some less expensive brands on eBay now. If you plan on keeping your SV1000 for many years and end up doing several valve checks, having a shim set on hand will easily pay for itself in terms of avoiding the hassle of trying to find specific shim sizes AFTER you've taken measurements. Been there, done that! :lol:
 

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got some of mines from hot cams yeaaars ago when i used them for ZRX1200 , sold it bought SV and TL and hey, they use same shims!
so it might be cheaper to look into what other bikes use same shims and find cheaper source.
as mentioned before...if you plan to keep your SV, its worh of the $ to buy a kit
forget dealerships!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks, guys. Good to know.

Meanwhile, the issues get deeper. I was filling up at a gas station last weekend, and when I went to start the bike to leave it did not start up.

Luckily there was a tire/maintenance shop right next to the gas station and I rolled it over there. A gentleman working there hooked it up to a jump pack and it started right up, but it stalled and died out just as I was getting ready to pull out into traffic. We repeated the process for good measure and before I could even throw the side covers and seat back on, and put my helmet and gloves on and get out of there, it died again. He tested the voltage and the battery was at 1.8v or something like that.

I just installed a new battery two months ago. So we called in the 90-day warranty to the auto parts store which luckily was about a mile down the road. A guy came out with a replacement battery and I swapped it out and continued on my way.

So now I'm left wondering if there's also an issue with the alternator... or the notorious green connector.
 

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[MENTION=16685]RC.[/MENTION], have you opened up the left side case cover to inspect your flywheel magnets? If some/several of those magnets are displaced and/or damaged, insufficient voltage will be generated which leads to rapidly discharging batteries.
 

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Did the guy who eplaced the battery check your charge rate before handing over a battery ?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Did the guy who eplaced the battery check your charge rate before handing over a battery ?
He did not. He brought the new battery, we swapped, and he took off.

[MENTION=16685]RC.[/MENTION], have you opened up the left side case cover to inspect your flywheel magnets? If some/several of those magnets are displaced and/or damaged, insufficient voltage will be generated which leads to rapidly discharging batteries.
Thanks for the tip. I will read up on that.

I actually don't have a garage or many tools at this point in time, so I'm primarily reading up on all of this stuff for when I do get access to one, or when I get in to a bike mechanic.

I appreciate all the advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So I took it to a shop (with a set of iridium plugs in hand) and had them check/synch the throttle bodies and install the new plugs. They checked the charging, too.

I picked it up today and drove it about 20 miles home on the highway and man was it buzzing! The pegs, the bars. The mirrors were shaking at a standstill. It runs great, but I've never felt vibration this strong before. I'm not really sure what to think of it.

Not that it has anything to do with it, but I'll do the TPS again when I get a chance.
 

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They checked the charging, too.

I picked it up today and drove it about 20 miles home on the highway and man was it buzzing! The pegs, the bars. The mirrors were shaking at a standstill. It runs great, but I've never felt vibration this strong before. I'm not really sure what to think of it.
Hmmm. Increased vibration.

What did they report regarding the charging?

Do you have a Digital Multi-meter (DMM) of your own. Even an inexpensive one can give insight into non-standard charging behavior, a symptom that may indicate one or more magnets have delaminated from the rotor.
 
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