SV Portal Forums banner

21 - 33 of 33 Posts

·
Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
Joined
·
1,258 Posts
Apart form the possible magnets out of place/missing..... sounds like the TPS and even the STPS are out of wack.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Hmmm. Increased vibration.

What did they report regarding the charging?

Do you have a Digital Multi-meter (DMM) of your own. Even an inexpensive one can give insight into non-standard charging behavior, a symptom that may indicate one or more magnets have delaminated from the rotor.
I didn't take a note of it when he told me, but I believe he said 12.something at rest and 14.something (maybe 14.3) running. I can call him back to get the exact numbers, I suppose. I don't have a DMM, but I'm sure a relative has to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Apart form the possible magnets out of place/missing..... sounds like the TPS and even the STPS are out of wack.....
I will probably do the TPS this weekend. I'm not familiar with the STPS and when I searched it brought up a bunch of hits for STV like this one here. Could you point toward the right thread?
 

·
Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
Joined
·
1,258 Posts
If you are getting under 13 at idle, you got issues....... 13.2 ish mi and around 14.5 above 2500.....

STPS is the Secondary Throttle Position Sensor..... (on the upper butterflies) i set them by ohms..... adjust the balance of those TOP butterflies so they are both dead flat....then you turn the STV motor by hand
until they are wide open..... (all with ignition off of course) then unplug the STPS harness.... look at the sensor socket and it is a triangle with 2 ever so slightly longer sides.... keep the short sid eat the top.
Connect mutlimeter to the right hand top one, and the bottom one.... pos top and neg bottom (it think, but if it gives a neg reading, swap em) and look for 4.38 ohms..... adjust to suit.....
If you cant get it, then the sensor is toast....

Set your TPS as per instructions you have already found i assume.....
 
  • Like
Reactions: RC.

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
If you are getting under 13 at idle, you got issues....... 13.2 ish mi and around 14.5 above 2500.....

STPS is the Secondary Throttle Position Sensor..... (on the upper butterflies) i set them by ohms..... adjust the balance of those TOP butterflies so they are both dead flat....then you turn the STV motor by hand
until they are wide open..... (all with ignition off of course) then unplug the STPS harness.... look at the sensor socket and it is a triangle with 2 ever so slightly longer sides.... keep the short sid eat the top.
Connect mutlimeter to the right hand top one, and the bottom one.... pos top and neg bottom (it think, but if it gives a neg reading, swap em) and look for 4.38 ohms..... adjust to suit.....
If you cant get it, then the sensor is toast....

Set your TPS as per instructions you have already found i assume.....
Sorry, by "at rest" I meant bike off. Not at idle. Thanks for the info on the STPS.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
If you are getting under 13 at idle, you got issues....... 13.2 ish mi and around 14.5 above 2500.....

STPS is the Secondary Throttle Position Sensor..... (on the upper butterflies) i set them by ohms..... adjust the balance of those TOP butterflies so they are both dead flat....then you turn the STV motor by hand
until they are wide open..... (all with ignition off of course) then unplug the STPS harness.... look at the sensor socket and it is a triangle with 2 ever so slightly longer sides.... keep the short sid eat the top.
Connect mutlimeter to the right hand top one, and the bottom one.... pos top and neg bottom (it think, but if it gives a neg reading, swap em) and look for 4.38 ohms..... adjust to suit.....
If you cant get it, then the sensor is toast....

Set your TPS as per instructions you have already found i assume.....
I checked the battery with a multimeter and it's showing 12.82 at idle and it takes until 5,000rpm until I hit 14.6, so I guess I've got issues there.

Then I did the TPS. Decided I would see what effect that had before attempting the STPS.

[EDIT]

I did a few things and then a little later I fired it up and went to reset the idle. It then had the same problem where the idle would fall, and eventually the bike died. I took the multimeter to it again and I was only getting 12.3 at idle and 12.71 at 5,000 rpms. It slowly rose to 13.0 after keeping it pegged there for what seemed like a while. So I definitely have issues.

Oh, and I lost the rubber cap to the end of the "dealer mode" wiring bit. So I'm doing an A+ job over here, lol.

[EDIT]

Then I put these little copper spacers that came with the battery on the other side of the plate that screws onto the battery terminal like a sandwich for good measure, and did another 20 mi. ride on the highway home. When I got back it was idling at all lights at 1450rpm exactly with no drop. Still buzzing though. Fingers crossed for the time being until I get this electrical thing figured out.

[EDIT] (I need to start timestamping this)

I took the bike out later that night and the idle did start to fall again as I was parking it at my destination. I can't catch a break here.
 

·
Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
Joined
·
1,258 Posts
sorry, "little copper spacers" ?

Between the leads and terminals themselves ?

I am wondering, the terminal blocks on the battery are lead type ?
If so, give them a scrub with some coarse sandpaper....
When batteries are made, somethimes they spray the terminals with a solution to stop them
from corroding and it is good enough to stop current movement...

Found this one a couple of batteries in the past....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
sorry, "little copper spacers" ?

Between the leads and terminals themselves ?

I am wondering, the terminal blocks on the battery are lead type ?
If so, give them a scrub with some coarse sandpaper....
When batteries are made, somethimes they spray the terminals with a solution to stop them
from corroding and it is good enough to stop current movement...

Found this one a couple of batteries in the past....
...Wish I had some photos. On the ETX14 battery the "posts" are like blocks as you say and then there are the plates that you screw to them. The plates have a crimp at the very end, instead of just lying flat. It doesn't do anything, but I put the copper spacer things that come with it (I believe it said they are for side mounting or something) just for the heck of it. They are on the red piece in the pic here. I don't think there is any coating on it from the factory, but it might not hurt to give everything a little buff. Please excuse all the non-technical speak.
 

·
Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
Joined
·
1,258 Posts
Ha ha... electrical speak ? Shit, all i know, is if the smoke gets out of the box, it dies.......all electrical stuff needs smoke to stay inside it...

Those side mounts are generally for Harley installs (mainly) the less you can have bolted on there the better IMHO.... Definetly give that terminal block
a good scrub and try again.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Same stuff with buzziness and idle drops to engine cutting out if I don't rev at stoplights. I've been riding about once a week lately. I went to take her out today and the battery was completely dead. Something is draining it. At this point I'm going to have to hope I can put a charge into it just to ride it out to a relative's garage to address later. I'm definitely not going back to the shop I used.
 

·
Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
Joined
·
1,258 Posts
You Tube a draw test to see how much power is being leached from the battery while its sitting turn off....
Ideally an amp meter is best, but you should be able to get a clue with a mutli meter...
Take the neg lead off, and then use the amp/multi meter to connect the neg terminal to the frame and see
if there is any movement of power....then pull fuses and suchlike till the draw stops.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
You Tube a draw test to see how much power is being leached from the battery while its sitting turn off....
Ideally an amp meter is best, but you should be able to get a clue with a mutli meter...
Take the neg lead off, and then use the amp/multi meter to connect the neg terminal to the frame and see
if there is any movement of power....then pull fuses and suchlike till the draw stops.....
Parasitic draw test, eh? Will have to look into that. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
So before I put my bike into storage last year I did a little more tinkering. I don't think I ever did a proper draw test, but my cousin helped out with the electrical gremlin search. I got a new starter solenoid relay and installed that... it made no difference. I found evidence that the mechanic I took my bike to was less than worthless and downright negligent, as my radiator almost fell off on a shakedown run as it was hanging by one last loose bolt. The others were never reattached. Who knows if the shop owner's helper even correctly installed the iridium plugs that I gave them when I told them to check the vacuum leak, which I'm not certain they even did... But that's another story. Spring's around the corner over here and I'm still stuck! I'll likely need to go deeper and check the flywheel magnets, stator, etc... This is just an epilogue from last season, not a cry for help! I hope y'all in the colder climates are ready to wake those beautiful beasts from slumber and ride on.
 
21 - 33 of 33 Posts
Top