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Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
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..................... (I used JB Weld SteelStik, less than $5) which secures/stabilizes the entire ring with minimal labor...................
Has the SteelStik have the same properties as the JB Weld ? In as much as the heat, and oil resistance ?
It certainly would be much easier and cleaner for the filling.....but i would be hesitant to use it is a glue, unless it can be very finely spread....
(just a had a picture of a tile grout comb on a smaller scale, that would do it well....)
 

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Has the SteelStik have the same properties as the JB Weld ? In as much as the heat, and oil resistance ?
It certainly would be much easier and cleaner for the filling.....but i would be hesitant to use it is a glue, unless it can be very finely spread....
(just a had a picture of a tile grout comb on a smaller scale, that would do it well....)
None of my magnets had come loose, so the SteelStik putty was ideal for filling the gaps between:



Degreased with a vengence (acetone, brake cleaner) first then packed it into the spaces to eliminate anywhere to "go"... the entire stack would have to shear.

Properties of SteelStik:

  • PRODUCT FEATURES AND STRENGTH: J-B Weld SteelStik has lap shear strength of 900 PSI, can withstand continuous temperatures up to 350F (176C ) and intermittent temperatures of 450F (232C), and is chemical resistant against petroleum, hydraulic fluids and other chemicals when fully cured. SteelStik can be molded, shaped, sanded, drilled and tapped.
  • SURFACE APPLICATIONS: Iron & Stainless Steel, Copper & Brass, Aluminum & Bronze, Fiberglass and Plastic & PVC.
My old oil-boiler might challenge that continuous-temperature guideline at the cylinder head, but I can't imagine that the SV bottom end gets anywhere close to 350°F.

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Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
Joined
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1,389 Posts
  • My old oil-boiler might challenge that continuous-temperature guideline at the cylinder head, but I can't imagine that the SV bottom end gets anywhere close to 350°F.
Would agree on the lower end temps, mechanically, but, electrically, and i will wait also for schmidt314 and / or RecoilRob to chime in, the temps can get pretty high in the rotor/stator under load....
Not sure how much......
Its a good start not having to glue any magnets in though. Something in the back of my mind is making me think that checking the fill after a few thousand miles would be good, just to see if there is any cracking, as the stick is forced to be a shape, where the JB Weld is still quite fluid and assumes a shape because of that......

Time will tell hey....
 

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I'm with you guys 100%, but I've found most mechanics to be stuck in their ways (a nice way of saying have "guru complexes") and think they know better. He was completely dismissive of it. So wish me luck with this one, lol. I don't have the tools, space, or expertise to do it myself.
I almost hope (not for your sake) that the whole thing self destructs the day before warranty runs out and he has to fix it again. Lets see how tall his high horse is then.
 
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