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KNEE DRAGGER
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I know this is an old post from 2016, but I'm curious to find out if you ever got hold of that letter.


The letter was pretty vague if I remember. I think it was more addressing the stator unit itself and not the rotor.
This was a long time ago! I forget a lot of things.
-ms
 

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Late to the party,
I had an '06 with 40k miles when I sold it. It was all miles on track and Sunday morning rides. Never an issue.
Just picked up an '07 with 15k miles and now you guys make me nervous. I am finally taking it out for it's first ride this weekend and then I will check the magnets as I have to rebuild the calipers might as well do other stuff.
 

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21k miles I had a fire under the seat at the stator power cable coupler.... Took off the magneto case, and my magnets were all loose. :(
 

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Since I didn't post it in this thread originally, I might as well add mine to the master list...

Bought an '06 model in August 2019 that had pretty much sat covered since new and was still in mint, unused condition. Went to do the 600 mile service on it in September and decided to check the magnets at that time. Sure enough...one was already loose and migrated. Glad I caught it early.

Clearly, this is an age-related thing as much as anything else. The factory epoxy simply gets brittle and weak over time. Shame Suzuki didn't use a better retention method.

Original thread: https://www.sv-portal.com/forums/4-...-glad-i-checked-low-mileage-magnet-issue.html
 

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Well decided to check mine today and 1 is destroyed, 1 is badly cracked and the other is chipped, so only 3 left. The amazing thing is, the bike was running fine and only decided to check them because I wanted to be sure.
I have managed to source a second hand one, but am curious if anyone has just bought the magnets from somewhere?
Bike is a 2003 with 13k on the clock.
 

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Anyone got some tips on how to hold the rotor to torque it up without the official Suzuki (read very expensive) tool?
 

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Anyone got some tips on how to hold the rotor to torque it up without the official Suzuki (read very expensive) tool?
I use a 1 3/16” wrench, open end. You can buy them at any auto parts store 8n the USA, or on Amazon. I think it’s a 30mm in metric.
 

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Anyone converted a rotor and stator on a K3 to a K5? it looks like I have been sent a K5 rotor and it fits but doesn't work with the K3 stator. So just wondering if I got a K5 stator, would it fit and work accordingly?
 

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Anyone converted a rotor and stator on a K3 to a K5? it looks like I have been sent a K5 rotor and it fits but doesn't work with the K3 stator. So just wondering if I got a K5 stator, would it fit and work accordingly?
The rotors are a straight change over, I would say there is a problem with tour stator winding's.
 

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The rotors are a straight change over, I would say there is a problem with tour stator winding's.
No the one I have been sent (which I think is from a K5) is different. It fits, but the gap between the stator and the magnets is greater. Only a few mm, but enough to half the charge. I was only getting 25v ish from it had 5k rpm.
 

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These are the ones I have, and as you can see my original on the bottom is deeper and wider. The inner measurements are the same but the out is 5mm less on the top one, so the pick up is 5mm to far away. This is enough for it to only give me 25v and 75v. Don't really understand why, but that is my issue. The stator looks ok and the resistance is also fine.
 

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These are the ones I have, and as you can see my original on the bottom is deeper and wider. The inner measurements are the same but the out is 5mm less on the top one, so the pick up is 5mm to far away. This is enough for it to only give me 25v and 75v. Don't really understand why, but that is my issue. The stator looks ok and the resistance is also fine.
I would be checking the part number they sent you because the only difference with the later is the weight and the later had no oil drain holes.
 

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The part numbers are different and it is going back. The difference is the outer diameter which means the pickup is 5mm further away and have had this confirmed it is the reason for my low voltage.
 

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The part numbers are different and it is going back. The difference is the outer diameter which means the pickup is 5mm further away and have had this confirmed it is the reason for my low voltage.
The only difference in the part numbers should be the last 2 digits, 00 compared to 10.
 

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Yes the last 2 written on the part is different.
The 03/04 rotor is no longer available, it was superseded by the 05+ one. They are identical to look at bar the drain holes between the magnets. The part numbers are identical except the last 2 digits which refers to a part revision.
Maybe they have sent you one from a DL or a 650.
 

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The 03/04 rotor is no longer available, it was superseded by the 05+ one. They are identical to look at bar the drain holes between the magnets. The part numbers are identical except the last 2 digits which refers to a part revision.
Maybe they have sent you one from a DL or a 650.
Don't know what it is off. It is going back today.
 
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