[LB83]

I recently upgraded to an SV1000s (2005) because I wanted more power than my previous SV650s (2001).

With the 650 there was like a problem where it was down on performance very noticably especially in mid-range and top-end power (60 - 70% of power is my guess)
I figured it was the bike or carbs that would've been the problem here. Anyway, now having the 1000 ofcourse is a lot more powerful, although during my last ride It felt like it was having the same symptoms as the 650 had. Noticably lower mid-range and top-end power.

Due to the fact it's showing the same symptoms I am ofcourse wondering if I am doing anything wrong with the bike, as in my riding style for instance that makes it behave like that.
I have to say I do blip the throttle a lot, even at low speeds or in traffic (cuz of the sound ofcourse). Could that be the issue here? Some rides it feels like full power, but last ride it was definitely lower on power. And by intermittently I don't mean every other minute or so. For example yesterday I recall it rode fine the whole 50km (30 miles) I rode. But today it felt slower the whole ride, at least when I went WOT.

I just wonder if it's me or the bike's 'fault'. The bike is completely stock apart from LeoVince slip-ons. 56k km/35k miles on the clock.
I look forward to any response, thank you in advance.

 

[Missing Link]

Firstly, welcome..... we have an intro thread if you want to drop by that and say hello...

How many km's on the bike? Does it have any tuning hardware like a Power Commander or similar? What fuel are you running ? I ask about the fuel, because it is the only common denominator
between the 650 and the 1000, unless you are under some curse, and only an exorcism will cure that....
Going back to the sicfiddy, had you ridden another comparible 1st gen 650 to measure your bike against ? It may be that it just cause its a 650....a friend had one, and he had a lot of fun with his.

There are a few tings to work through slowly, and usually one thing at a time, that way you get to know what each change makes to the bike.
Fuel supply is one....remove the tank and remove the pump and filter and check for blockages on the pick-up. Run quality injector clean through it after that, and before if you want.
Check air filter condition, hopefully no rats nests in there. Check you charging rate on the battery......minimum 13.2 ish at idle and 14.5v at 2000 and above is good, check for irregular readings
too.
Thre are settings to do , but get these few done first and go from there

 

[LB83]

Hi Link, thank you.

56k km on the odometer, no tuning hardware afaik, I only fill up with 98 octane.
The thing is, there were times were my 650 rode as it's supposed to. The torque/power loss just occured at some point, on a random day. So I was able to compare it to before, and it felt noticably slower. When I brought it to a dyno however, it said 75-ish hp, which are the normal numbers for a 650. When riding it tho, I didn't feel like 75 at all, more like 50 or 55. But when I had the valves clearances adjusted, suddenly it rode fine again, but it only stayed like that for 5 days, and slowly returning to the slower performance after that.

With the 1000 tho, it's showing the exact same symptoms now, only difference is ofcourse that it feels like an 85hp bike instead of 50hp on the 650. But percentage wise it's the same (60-70%). So I'm really wondering if I'm handling the bike in a bad way. When I ride I let it idle for about a minute I would say before leaving. Also by blipping the throttle often am I flooding the cylinders or something?

On the other hand I'm not really a mechanic. Apart from the basic stuff like oil and filter or airfilter change I'm not experienced enough to do the really technical stuff nor having the tools or knowledge for it.

Fuel supply is one....remove the tank and remove the pump and filter and check for blockages on the pick-up. Run quality injector clean through it after that, and before if you want.

Like this for instance, Is this doable for a noob with basic tools and stuff? I'm willing to do it, but also don't want to break anything ofcourse.

 

[Missing Link]

The throttle blipping isn't an issue on an EFI bike.....carby bikes, especially if you do it and then shut it off can get a little wet.

THe pump removal is not difficult. But, if you are a little on the noob side, maybe graba mate who knows a little to work beside you
to guide you. Once you have done a bit of work like this, you get to see how the bike is put together and what you can achieve.
Otherwise, find a mechanic who gives a sh%t about what he is doing and not what he is earning and get her looked at.

There are other things like the TPS and STPS that need to be checked and adjusted, and those are also not hard, but
you need multi meters and the like for that.
There is lots of info on here about those things, and you can pass that info on to a mechanic.

 

[estevns]

One thing which comes to my mind. Any chance your bike have been imported from France or Netherlands?
I'm not sure about the exact law, but something with bikes being restricted to 100hp. For SV1000 and probably many other Suzuki's it's just a matter of removing a pin (can't remember which one by fact, but 23 comes to mind) from the ECU. That pin simply goes to ground.

Source: my own bike comes from the Netherlands.

Does not explain power coming and going, only if it felt a little down on power at the higher end.


As Missing Link already mentioned, I would also look at fueling or electrical.

 

[LB83]

Thank you for your responses. For the pump yes, I will see what I can do myself. As for the TPS and throttle body synch, a mechanic will probably have to do that because I don't have those multimeters. It's also been quite a long time since the plugs have been changed, although I guess this doesn't really explain the power coming and going tho.

 

[Missing Link]

Crappy plugs can do more than you think. And, another little trick, especially as the bike gets on a bit, is trimming 5mm off the end of the plug leads. The plug caps unscrew from the lead
and you snip a bit off, wash ou tthe plug cap with brake clean and screw it back on..... first time i did that i was quite sruprised how mch nicer the bike ran.
The TPS / STPS adjustments are very important to get right. Its worth buying a dealer mode switch to suit your bike, or make one, and you can do the TPS easily yourself, as the dash
gives you a reference point. The STPS has to be done with a multimeter....buy one, they are cheap compared to a mechanic.

 

[GDCobra]

The STPS has to be done with a multimeter....buy one, they are cheap compared to a mechanic.

Absolutely agree and you'll know the job has been done right and it's a great opportunity to 'bond' with your bike!

 

[SV_Steve]

Only just saw this
Have had tps issue on car recently and sounds similar
Throttle responds to point the no more
This was resistance style tps
This type superseded by magnetic types then by alternative approaches altogether
More pedal does nothing as engine management doesn’t get signal past certain position putting upper limit on fuel flow and power
Actual physical throttle wider than indicated and may decrease output as actual charge leans out
Would indicate tps replacement
With these sorts of things diagnosis can be the most problematical thing and mechanic can be good value money and time wise though it can be frustrating in hindsight how obvious it looks and $$ disproportionate
Basically if bike not worked on before would hope parts like this last the life of bike
Second best is it’s a common issue common symptoms and common fix

 

[Missing Link]

........................Have had tps issue on car recently and sounds similar......................

Had a BA Falcon and the TPS on it was fun....could be cruising on the freeway and the engine would just turn off.
Other times it wold drive you up a slope all by itself....was a known issue, swapped it out for a upgraded version.

 

[LB83]

Tbh I really think it could be something like that. I mean it makes sense because it pulls like the throttle is opened for only 60-70%. And down low you don't notice it because you wouldn't (or atleast I wouldn't) pull the throttle wide open from close to a standstill.