start with pull codes.... watch this video to see how. depending on the code it will lead you in a direction to fix it.
Its aliiiiiiiiiiiiiiive ... OK it ran in 2019 last. Just cable swap since then.
I have it running, and the gauge pod I scored off ebay for $45 seems to be blinking FI and has redlight on in that engine/oil/FI section. It says FI in the temperature location every few seconds.
No I didn't let it overheat or run it low on anything, I barely ran it to 170F and shut it down.
I have 100% h2o in the radiator that I filled today, and it was 90F when I filled it, and freezing temps will not appear for 6 months. Oil level is fine, all the rest is OK AFAIK.
So what could be making that red light and have it say FI ?
No I didn't let it overheat or run it low on anything, I barely ran it to 170F and shut it down.
I have 100% h2o in the radiator that I filled today, and it was 90F when I filled it, and freezing temps will not appear for 6 months. Oil level is fine, all the rest is OK AFAIK.
So what could be making that red light and have it say FI ?
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OK cool, will do this and post back.
I'll bet its C15 - cos the plug to radiator is unplugged. In fact I'm missing the fan entirely.
Is the water drain plug on this bike on the top 1/2 of the water pump housing ?
Is the code stored in the ECU or the gauge pod itself ?
That is not the drain. That is the bleeder. The drain is forward of the pump in the main cover.Is the water drain plug on this bike on the top 1/2 of the water pump housing ?
-MS
The bike does not store the codes to recall later from the regular method of service mode.Is the code stored in the ECU or the gauge pod itself ?
-ms
Thanks, I ran and drained and flushed it via that bolt, its the lowest point in the cooling system right ?That is not the drain. That is the bleeder. The drain is forward of the pump in the main cover.
-MS
Now I plan to run distilled water in it for a few miles and dump it and flush it with air when warm, then put that non green - I think its red antifreeze after the system is dry. Because I put some dirty water in it from my garden hose. Recommend it ? Or stay with the green ? Or suggest what is better. The bike is missing the radiator fan but its not going to need that for a bit, I am not riding it and into traffic etc etc for a while.
Oh so its reading the code as of now. OK I'll test in dealer mode tomorrow and post back.The bike does not store the codes to recall later from the regular method of service mode.
-ms
The green coolant is the recommended one, its in it from new......fill with clean water, run and flush, twice, the remove any old coolant....
OK _ C00 but the _ is a problem indicating something about the rear cyl isn't it ?Let me look in that link above.Oh so its reading the code as of now. OK I'll test in dealer mode tomorrow and post back.
Oh TPS - if its _ C00 TPS needs adjusting ? OMG. Never done that before, let me google that.
Best way to get the TPS done, is to set the dash line in the middle at idle....1400 ish.....and then ever so sowly increase revs to about 1750 and the line should jump to the top.....
Adjust until it suits..... works well and is super easy...
Adjust until it suits..... works well and is super easy...
Oh we can run the bike when in dealer mode ? I am actually completely lost here, I've never touched FI on anything. I am the resident carb expert on GSTwin and this is alien cos its not like a synch either. I dont even know what the underlying principle even is. or how a cable swap to longer cables threw it off. I took the TB's off - did that do it ?
It will only run in dealer mode ? Now thats new to me.....never heard of that before.
Was the bike running before you did the cable swap, without dealer mode ?
Was the instrument cluster replaced ? It has to be a kind for kind, market specific cluster..... and a 650 cluster wont suit a 1000 either.
Was the bike running before you did the cable swap, without dealer mode ?
Was the instrument cluster replaced ? It has to be a kind for kind, market specific cluster..... and a 650 cluster wont suit a 1000 either.
The bike runs just fine in non dealer mode. My question was that "can we run it in dealer mode ? ".
Bike ran fine before and after the cables swap. Just no more binding of cables now.
Yes I replaced the cluster with a 650 one.
Now the 650 cluster fits and works - but you're saying it shouldn't ? Or can it cause some quirks like what I'm seeing like TPS being at the lower _, tach gauge jumping to just 7k instead of all the way at plug in etc etc.
Bike ran fine before and after the cables swap. Just no more binding of cables now.
Yes I replaced the cluster with a 650 one.
Now the 650 cluster fits and works - but you're saying it shouldn't ? Or can it cause some quirks like what I'm seeing like TPS being at the lower _, tach gauge jumping to just 7k instead of all the way at plug in etc etc.
Yes, the bike will run fine in dealer mode....
A 650 cluster sould not work on a 1000......ECU differences, different CMP input to the ECU...... If they were the same, the part number would be the same.
A 650 cluster sould not work on a 1000......ECU differences, different CMP input to the ECU...... If they were the same, the part number would be the same.
The 650 cluster seems to work OK. I'll have to make the carrier bracket etc to make sure. For now, it plugs in and shows idle rpm and some idiot lights. That's as far as I've got there.
Reprogrammed dashboard from SV650 successfully works on SV1000The 650 cluster seems to work OK. I'll have to make the carrier bracket etc to make sure. For now, it plugs in and shows idle rpm and some idiot lights. That's as far as I've got there.
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