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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have been reading the threads as I bought a low mileage K7 for daily commuting.
Since I don't have much technical skill and can't afford much down-time with the bike (a man's gotta work), I was wondering which of the known gremlins have been ironed out since earlier models.
(PS. the bike is still completely stock, except for slight modification of baffles on stock pipes.)

In short, what mods and fixes should I focus on for the K7?

Thanks in advance for all input.
 

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Rotor magnets coming loose is probably one of the biggest and most expensive problems with your bike. I also have a k7 and the magnets let go at 23000km. If it happens it may just show up as a charging/low battery issue...or much worse if the magnets disintegrate. I permanently fixed mine but it was a lot of work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Spongebob

Thanks Spongebob, so the magnets are a universal issue.

My bike is on 17800km now, so I'll keep an eye on that.

Did you solve the problem via one of the threads (DIY), or did you get it seen to at a dealer?
 

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No I engineered a fix that involved attaching a laser cut plate to the rotor with fingers that bend down between the magnets then get surrounded by epoxy. Have a look aty other posts to see.
 

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I am suggesting that you remove the "Dreaded Green Connector" electrical junction, which has a nasty habit of failing in the worst of circumstances (getting dark, far from home, a blizzard coming...). This can be practically a no-expense fix, using four individual spade connectors of 30A capacity, covered with heat shrink tape. Many articles on this forum re "how to". If you self-admitted limited skills won't permit this, perhaps a friend who has done this job can help. Perhaps someone from this forum who lives not far from you and who has done this job, as I have to mine (at a cost of about one US dollar for the four spade connectors) and an hour of time.

That same knowledgeable helper can show you how to remove the alternator rotor cover and examine the rotor for loose magnets. Not all SV-1000s develop the loose magnets. The cause for failure is not clear as of this writing, but the factory epoxy that holds the six magnets to the rotor seems to lose strength as it ages (at my age, I am very familiar with strength loss with age!!). My rotor's magnets still are intact at 41,000 miles, but I have a voltmeter fitted to my SV and can tell very quickly if my alternator is acting up. A look at the magnets every year (better every six months) is a recommended strategy for early detection of a loosening magnet or two. It's a very easy check; 10-15 minutes once you know how.

Best wishes with your new SV. They are an excellent, but very under-rated, bike.

Ralph
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Ralph

Many thanks for the advice Ralph.

I had a quick once over this morning after my commute, I've had the bike for a week now, and have just noticed what must be clutch fluid weeping through the lower left side of the case.

Will keep an eye on the fluid level until I can afford to have it looked at. I did find the thread regarding this, as well as Spongebobs ingenious fix for the magnet problem.

I also noticed this morning, under moderate to hard acceleration that I have a nasty rattle and vibration in the front end. Checked all fairing bolts and clips, but nothing loose...I'm hoping the issue lies around the yoke and not with the motor.
 

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A look at the magnets every year (better every six months) is a recommended strategy for early detection of a loosening magnet or two. It's a very easy check; 10-15 minutes once you know how.


Ralph
Exactly why I added the plate to mine, no way I'd want to be pulling the side cover perhaps twice a year. At that rate you'd need thread recoils before long. I fitted a new gasket and torqued EVERYTHING to spec, that side cover comes off over my dead body!
 

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Exactly why I added the plate to mine, no way I'd want to be pulling the side cover perhaps twice a year. At that rate you'd need thread recoils before long. I fitted a new gasket and torqued EVERYTHING to spec, that side cover comes off over my dead body!
Is that a clear plastic plate, or a small circular inspection cover that allows you to check inside without removing the entire alternator cover? Inquiring minds want to know.

My only hesitation in having such a plate is that if it doesn't allow for actual hands on inspection of the magnets one cannot tell if the factory adhesive is getting soft.

I re-fit my bike's alternator cover very carefully and use minimal torque on the fasteners; just enough to keep it snug against the gasket. No hammer- driver need apply!
 

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No I modified a new rotor by adding a laser cut disk to the outer face, if you check my posts under "permanent magnet fix" you will find how I did it.
 

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Known Issues of K7

Purchased with 19,000 mi. on the clock and had the clutch basket remanufactured by Real Shelby - Excellent work! This removed the hard, throbbing vibration known as clutch chuddar, however, this fix revealed a higher frequency vibration which tends to numb my fingers within 30 min. of riding. This symptom remains. Additionally, my battery no longer charges as it once did, necessitating a Battery Tender when it's parked. I suspect the magnets have shifted, causing both the vibration and the charging (or rather the lack of it) issues. Note: it's not wheel balance related as I can cruise at 80mph / 5000rpm and simply pull the clutch to feel it turn to glass like smoothness. The vibration is present from idle to redline, forcing me to make plans to address this and restore ride ability to this otherwise most enjoyable bike ever! Cheers all round!
 

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Spongebob: Of course, I did read your posts about how to ensure a permanent fix for potential loose magnets. How quickly I forgot. I thought you did a masterful job of analyzing the problem and doing a real engineer's job of fixing it. Pity Suzuki doesn't offer to buy your rights to the design (should it be patentable) but maybe they fear this would amount to an admission of poor design on their part??

Ralph
 

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I never did anything about my K5's green connector, and it had 16,000 miles on it when I got it. The part that surprised me was that the PO had put 100W bulbs in there! It was running twice the load in the headlights and the green connector never went wrong? I sold the bike to a friend and it now has about 30,000 miles, still on the green connector.

I know it is a weak point, but I wouldn't just bypass it, instead I'd get this from Eastern Beaver:

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html#h4dual

That way the load doesn't go through the green connector nor the OEM wiring harness, which has been proven to reduce voltage, and light output, even with the green connector bypassed. That way you avoid green connector issues and also get better lighting.
 

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Spongebob: Of course, I did read your posts about how to ensure a permanent fix for potential loose magnets. How quickly I forgot. I thought you did a masterful job of analyzing the problem and doing a real engineer's job of fixing it. Pity Suzuki doesn't offer to buy your rights to the design (should it be patentable) but maybe they fear this would amount to an admission of poor design on their part??

Ralph
Thanks mate, I appreciate your kind words! Tell you what, my bike has never run so well, roars into life every time now even after a couple of weeks sitting in the shed.
 
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