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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, have been in this forum for some time now reading through the posts and I must say this is a lovely place with lots of knowledge to draw from. It's been a little over a year since I got my pride and joy 03 S and around the end of the summer, I noticed a leak on my left fork cap at the pre-load adjuster. Suspected a bad o-ring and took it apart to replace it. After replacing it the leak continued altho at a somewhat slower rate. I tried to find the correct specs for the o-ring tho to no success, so I was wondering if anyone hears happed to know them and how to zero out the fork caps for a correct reinstalment.

Thanks in advance.
 

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H.......................Suspected a bad o-ring and took it apart to replace it. After replacing it the leak continued altho at a somewhat slower rate. I tried to find the correct specs for the o-ring tho to no success.................

Unfortunately, the fork cap does not have seperately serviceable parts in the parts books, although, the service manual shows it apart and tells you to replace it (go figure)......... The o-ring is probably best specced by measuring the relevant sizes of where it works.....
So, not having disassembled one myself, i would leave it to you to make ourself a little diagram of that and find the optimal o-ring to suit it....a counter sales supplier
would probably do it in seconds for you if you brought the disassembled parts to them...
Reassembling it would probably be best done with a mix of a very light grease and fork oil to make it slippery as hell....
This is assuming of course that #2 in the service manual pic is the one leaking....#3 is the rebound adjuster o-ring

Having said that, the service manuals usually warn not to break down these assemblies, as they dont trust the reinstall..... who knows, the may freeze the o-rings to shrink them
so the install super easy without scoring them?

Have a look at the two pics i have attached

117404
117405
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply Missing Link, yes #2 is the one #3 is a metal ring with a cut in it more like what you see on the top of some forks that functions as a fiscal stop. At the moment I am making a ATRE (the one with the transistor and the 45k and 15k (and one with a 6.8k) resistors) as soon I have some time to suspend the bike I will take the cup apart and measure it to see if any of the o-rings from my kit will fit. On that subject when I asked for correct re-installment I was mostly referring to how to setup the compression before re-installing the flat head adjuster can be adjusted from the inside and I believe that by doing so you can play with the range of your maximum values on it. Any thots on that subjekt?
 

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#2 is the one #3 is a metal ring with a cut in it more like what you see on the top of some forks that functions as a fiscal stop. subject when I asked for correct re-installment I was mostly referring to how to setup the compression before re-installing the flat head adjuster can be adjusted from the inside and I believe that by doing so you can play with the range of your maximum values on it. Any thots on that subjekt?
I failed to notice that there is 2 of #2 in the service manual picture....the second, larger one is the cap o-ring obviously.... I know what you mean about the circlip, it stops the preload adjuster from winding out too far, but, there is an o-ring in there as well that works on the rebound adjuster screw.
When you say that the o-ring is leaking, how much is it leaking ? Is it just a vapour and dust is being attracted to it ? because, if it is a sizeable amount of oil, it might be that the oil level is too high....
refer to the diagram for the correct height. (standard level) Make sure that the inner rebound rod is not installed, as it will artificially raise the oil level.
Be sure the pump the puh rod up and down to remove any air if your are replacing the fluid alotogether.

Next, the nut on the push rod should be set at 11mm from the top of the threaded rod. (see diagram)


117406


117407
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
garazd said:
.......... I was mostly referring to how to setup the compression before re-installing the flat head adjuster can be adjusted from the inside ..........
My mistake I meant rebound adjuster screw.
Missing Link said:
I failed to notice that there is 2 of #2 in the service manual picture....the second, larger one is the cap o-ring obviously.... I know what you mean about the circlip, it stops the preload adjuster from winding out too far, but, there is an o-ring in there as well that works on the rebound adjuster screw.
When you say that the o-ring is leaking, how much is it leaking ? Is it just a vapour and dust is being attracted to it ? because, if it is a sizeable amount of oil, it might be that the oil level is too high....
refer to the diagram for the correct height. (standard level) Make sure that the inner rebound rod is not installed, as it will artificially raise the oil level.
Be sure the pump the puh rod up and down to remove any air if your are replacing the fluid alotogether.

Next, the nut on the push rod should be set at 11mm from the top of the threaded rod. (see diagram)
Click to expand...
In the beginning, it was a lot but after I replaced the o-ring it lessened and after a few weeks, it's like a film that collects dust tho it does not seem to stop. I have the Suzuki manual so this info is known to me, I am talking about the underside of the fork cup. Ther is an adjuster just like the rebound flathead on top tho in a recess and from seeing Dave Moss videos I know that you have to zero them out and then add some turns, the thing is in which direction and how much?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
.......... I was mostly referring to how to setup the compression before re-installing the flat head adjuster can be adjusted from the inside ..........
My mistake I meant rebound adjuster screw.
I failed to notice that there is 2 of #2 in the service manual picture....the second, larger one is the cap o-ring obviously.... I know what you mean about the circlip, it stops the preload adjuster from winding out too far, but, there is an o-ring in there as well that works on the rebound adjuster screw.
When you say that the o-ring is leaking, how much is it leaking ? Is it just a vapour and dust is being attracted to it ? because, if it is a sizeable amount of oil, it might be that the oil level is too high....
refer to the diagram for the correct height. (standard level) Make sure that the inner rebound rod is not installed, as it will artificially raise the oil level.
Be sure the pump the puh rod up and down to remove any air if your are replacing the fluid alotogether.

Next, the nut on the push rod should be set at 11mm from the top of the threaded rod. (see diagram)
In the beginning, it was a lot but after I replaced the o-ring it lessened and after a few weeks, it's like a film that collects dust tho it does not seem to stop. I have the Suzuki manual so this info is known to me, I am talking about the underside of the fork cup. Ther is an adjuster just like the rebound flathead on top tho in a recess and from seeing Dave Moss videos I know that you have to zero them out and then add some turns, the thing is in which direction and how much?
 

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Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
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My mistake I meant rebound adjuster screw.

In the beginning, it was a lot but after I replaced the o-ring it lessened and after a few weeks, it's like a film that collects dust tho it does not seem to stop. I have the Suzuki manual so this info is known to me, I am talking about the underside of the fork cup. Ther is an adjuster just like the rebound flathead on top tho in a recess and from seeing Dave Moss videos I know that you have to zero them out and then add some turns, the thing is in which direction and how much?
If you are wanting to know where the rebound screw should be set, say, like on a gixxer USD fork, then no, its not the same.
Most USD forks have to have the rebound screw set at a certain protrusion, which dictates when the cap (lightly) stops winding onto the damping rod.)

For the SV, to get it set-up, that 11mm measurement on the damper rod is a must, once you have firmed the cap on that and locked the nut up, the rebound screw
will have 3 turns in it from fully in, to fully out. If the left and right fork rebound screws are out of wack in that way, then one of them is not set at the 11mm.
Now, of course, it might be a tiny bit more than 3 turns with the 11mm setting, but the main thing is that both legs are the same.
Your manual will tell you what stock settings for the rebound and compression screw are, and the preload.

The part of your previous post in red i am curious about. It kind of reads like, apart from the rebound screw in the dead center of the blue preload adjuster, there is a seperate screw up top as well ? Or, if you turn the cap upside down, there is another screw slot ? If either of these are the case, i have never seen that on an SV
fork before.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The part of your previous post in red i am curious about. It kind of reads like, apart from the rebound screw in the dead center of the blue preload adjuster, there is a seperate screw up top as well ? Or, if you turn the cap upside down, there is another screw slot ? If either of these are the case, i have never seen that on an SV
fork before.
ok, thanks for clarifying that it's not the same as USD's. I will take it apart and snap some photos for you maybe my articulation is not coming thru as I would have wanted.
 
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