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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, this is a continuation of my month long magneto extravaganza!!!

Received used magneto with loose magnets today so let the work begin.

I have compiled information that I have read on several posts along with some good info from an aircraft magneto repair guy of 40 years. So here goes!!

Tools required for procedure: dental picks, razor blade, emery cloth med and fine, hand sander, clean rags, Maxima contact cleaner, JB weld, 7 popsicle sticks, small plastic tray, OH YA BEER!!!:cheers:

1st - remove magnets, if there are some still adhered "not likely, Damn Suzuki epoxy" use heat on outside of rotor to loosen. I used a butane torch and the dental pick!

2nd -- clean hardened epoxy from magnets, use razor blade and fine emery cloth to get down to magnet. Use medium emery cloth on back side of magnets for maximum adhesion. Use Maxima contact cleaner to clean excess epoxy powder, oil etc off magnets, wipe off with clean shop rag.

3rd --- Clean rotor with contact cleaner to remove oil and grease. Use dental pick and razor blade to remove excess epoxy from inside of rotor. Use medium emery cloth on inside of rotor ( magnet contact area ) . clean with contact cleaner and wipe with another clean shop rag.

4th --- notice 6 small holes in rotor toward upper lip. These will be your spacers for the magnets ( magnets don't block holes! )... Also when removing magnets I noticed they came out a certain way. Due to polarity I scratched arrows on face of magnets pointing down toward bearing. Jim the aircraft guy told me to do this, didn't ask ?s just did it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
continued... BY the way did I mention BEER in the tool list...

5th ----- tools need for this part ( SEE PHOTO ) 1. Bessey 2 inch ratcheting clamp set (Qty 5 ) 2. JB WELD and red Loctite 271 oh yah and more BEER! :mobile:If anyone is wondering I picked up a case of Newcastle WEREWOLF limited edition .. Damn this stuff is good !!!:cheers:

6th ------ Mix JB WELD - use 1 of the popsicle sticks I mentioned earlier. Coat the back of the magnet with a thin layer enough to hide the entire back side of magnet. NOTICE don't use too much or it will end up all over the inside of rotor. Remember JB Weld can handle 4000psi and 550 degrees f. so don't over do it. Pay close attention to arrow on face of magnet and place first magnet between two holes in rotor. Use 1st Bessey clamp and try to get placement even between holes before you crank it down as tight as you can squeeze. repeat this process 5 more times. Now grab the other six popsicle sticks and trim of 1mm length wise on all sticks.. Now use them as spacers in-between magnets against rotor wall...

7th ------- :beer::beer::beer::beer:

Cure time is approx 24 hours!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here are the steps for the bearing removal from the rotor...

Step 1: after magnets are removed... Clamp rotor down ... I-didn't want to use my vise as the teeth would damage the teeth on outside of rotor. Vise grips and a piece of 5/8 plywood seemed to do the trick.

Step 2: Used 6mm hex socket and took about 100psi to break these 6 bastards loose. Factory used red Loc-tite. Remove 6 bolts holding bearing in rotor then separate bearing housing from bearing and clean with contact cleaner.

Step 3: Use Red Loc-tite to reinstall 6 bolts after JB weld has cured!

Step 4: :beer::beer::beer: NOTE Beer reference in photo!!! HAHA!
 

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A square wheel rollin' !!
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Nice write up and pics. Long term report would be nice. Another member , Sephrin , has over 2k miles on his JB Weld repaired rotor, so initial signs are good.

Can you explain or post pics of the part where you trimmed the Popsicle sticks 1mm and used them as spacers ? I didn't quite understand what you meant.

A mod needs to make this a sticky.



.........................Blake
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Take a regular popsicle stick which is 6 mm wide. Take a tape measure and mark off 1mm.. trim with razor knife length wise ( top to bottom) . This should leave you with a aprox 5 mm popsicle stick. It just so happens that 6 of these placed against the rotor wall in between the 6 magnets is perfect to keep them from moving.. the JB Weld makes them squirm around and even with the ratched clamps they move.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have about 500 miles on this DIY repair and everything seems to be fine... I ordered another gasket and at 1000 miles I plan to crack it open and take a looksee. I will keep everyone updated on status.. also the tl1000 stator works amazing. My headlights are brighter.. Ordered from electrosports Ltd. For $130 part # ESG703.. only issue was small plastic clip that broke off.. I fabbed up a tab and mounted it on screw closeset to stator harness exit. Tab holds down smaller sensor wire so it doesn't interfere with movement of flywheels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well 800+ miles after repair and everything still seems to be working as it should.. I've pushed it to 120+ mph and No Grinding noises,clacking, weird vibrations or charging issues.. I will keep everyone posted!:supsmiley:
 

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Take a regular popsicle stick which is 6 mm wide. Take a tape measure and mark off 1mm.. trim with razor knife length wise ( top to bottom) . This should leave you with a aprox 5 mm popsicle stick. It just so happens that 6 of these placed against the rotor wall in between the 6 magnets is perfect to keep them from moving.. the JB Weld makes them squirm around and even with the ratched clamps they move.
I had a look at mine all is good should I do someting like fill in the gaps?
 

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dyi write up

good job you did an even more detailed job than i did. but you also had a 40 year vet helpin you out. but your welcome for the basic concept and general item list of whats needed to do the job. have you noticed less low end vibration after you fixed the magnets?

i tested my bike up to 166mph on speedo and 173mph on radar and it still held fine. i do not suggest riding at that speed. it is very dangerous and the slightest twitch of the wrist or even something a small as a sneeze can start some high speed tank slappers really fast. and definitely wear gear when you are testing this.

for any of you that are not sure of your dyi ability i can help you with this process. i did mine slightly different than this write up but honestly this writeup is probably a more thurough method of doing the job. i had to estimate the distance between the magnets as i had all 6 of mine loose so i had nothing to give me rough estimate so i just eye balled it. couldnt have been worse than all 6 magnets touching at the bottom of rotor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Stpierre.... don't fill in the gaps this will cause unbalanced flywheel spin. In addition there are small 6mm holes between all 6 magnets that need to be left free of any obstructions.
 

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A square wheel rollin' !!
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good job you did an even more detailed job than i did. but you also had a 40 year vet helpin you out. but your welcome for the basic concept and general item list of whats needed to do the job. have you noticed less low end vibration after you fixed the magnets?


C'mon Sephrin, relax. Goobering some magnets back in place is hardly rocket science.

i tested my bike up to 166mph on speedo and 173mph on radar and it still held fine. i do not suggest riding at that speed. it is very dangerous and the slightest twitch of the wrist or even something a small as a sneeze can start some high speed tank slappers really fast. and definitely wear gear when you are testing this.


173mph on radar on an SV1K ? Tell them they need to get their radar calibrated.

for any of you that are not sure of your dyi ability i can help you with this process. i did mine slightly different than this write up but honestly this writeup is probably a more thurough method of doing the job. i had to estimate the distance between the magnets as i had all 6 of mine loose so i had nothing to give me rough estimate so i just eye balled it. couldnt have been worse than all 6 magnets touching at the bottom of rotor.


I admire your willingness to help your fellow SV'ers ! Keep it up !
SVforLife said:
Stpierre.... don't fill in the gaps this will cause unbalanced flywheel spin. In addition there are small 6mm holes between all 6 magnets that need to be left free of any obstructions.
If he is careful about adding the JB Weld , and takes his time, it shouldn't unbalance it. Instead of filling the gaps between the magnets, perhaps just a thorough cleaning of the rotor and apply a bead all the way around each magnet.


What's the reasoning behind keeping the holes open ? Allows a place for air/oil to escape ?



.................................Blake
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
JB Weld has metal in it , so if your going to put some along the sides of the magnet it will be a tedious job as it tends to travel around the sides of the magnet and onto the face of them. Also if your going to do this I would suggest cleaning the factory epoxy off the sides of the magnets , so the JB Weld has something to firmly attach to. And yes thats what the holes are for!
 

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Well, I will tell you guys that yes non of my magnets have come loose however they have shifted.

I am at a lost because I can attempt to separate them from the rotor or just apply some jb weld with brush to ensure their stability.

Either way, I have a stator but need some guidance on the best course of action.

I feel that I should try to separate the magnets from rotor and reset with jb weld however not sure how loos the magnets are now. I mean I have 60K miles on the bike and this problem just occurred so I think the epoxy is good. Plus this bike is a bike that sees the track regularly as well so might be best to reset but thinking of just sealing magnets and replacing stator.

Y'all assistance is greatly appreciated.
 

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