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Just a suggestion: you might want to take a wee bit more off to be sure it's level or below the magnets. It looks like you have some on the surface of the magnets still and the clearance you have to the stator is pretty tight IIRC. On mine I took everything off the surface of the magnets then used a Dremel sanding drum to make a radius in the JB between each magnet so the surface was slightly below. If anything...getting to sand/file/machine on JB Weld will make you a believer in how strong it is!:)
 

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Just a suggestion: you might want to take a wee bit more off to be sure it's level or below the magnets. It looks like you have some on the surface of the magnets still and the clearance you have to the stator is pretty tight IIRC. On mine I took everything off the surface of the magnets then used a Dremel sanding drum to make a radius in the JB between each magnet so the surface was slightly below. If anything...getting to sand/file/machine on JB Weld will make you a believer in how strong it is!:)[/quote [MENTION=17973]RecoilRob[/MENTION] thank you for your thoughts! I will make sure to take the rest of to ensure it fits around the stator.

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KNEE DRAGGER
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Well since I'm bored I measured the SFV rotor. OD is 131 mm and it has 22 pickups (7mm x 5mm. 1.6 mm high) and the back side of the taper has a 26.7 mm diameter, 29 mm deep. Keyway is 4 mm located between 2 pickups. 109 mm across the magnets ID.

Of course you have to get the starter clutch to work too. OOoof.

SV1000 K5 and the SVF rotors. You can't see the SV rotor has a much larger taper size. Puller is the same size though.


The other thing you need to look at is the position of the key way to the odd indicator on the rotor.

I think I have a rotor that will work on an SV1000 with encapsulated magnets. The big issue though is that I have to figure out how to deal with the phase of the crank position sensor. It might be easiest to machine a new key way.

No guarantees it fits yet, but the measurements I have look like it will work on the crank end. No clue on stator yet either. I have so many moto projects going on I can’t get to this project...

-ms
 

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Knowledge is Horsepower
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I really don't know why the 1000 doesn't have the indents or non encapsulation.

How about the TL's rotors? Too bad the new DL's rotor doesn't fit.

ADD: Looks like they are encapsulated, but the pickups are lacking. And the center is separate from the rotor.
 

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Just a suggestion: you might want to take a wee bit more off to be sure it's level or below the magnets. It looks like you have some on the surface of the magnets still and the clearance you have to the stator is pretty tight IIRC. On mine I took everything off the surface of the magnets then used a Dremel sanding drum to make a radius in the JB between each magnet so the surface was slightly below. If anything...getting to sand/file/machine on JB Weld will make you a believer in how strong it is!:)
Thanks to [MENTION=17973]RecoilRob[/MENTION], I sanded down the jb weld before ensuring that there is enough clearance. Excited to get this thing back on and ride when it warms up!


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There you go! Looks a lot better....ride safely.:)[/quote [MENTION=17973]RecoilRob[/MENTION] Is the rotor supposed to have Gap before bolting down? I can't get mine back on any farther than this


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Nvm had a brain fart and remembered it pops back on

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Just a suggestion: you might want to take a wee bit more off to be sure it's level or below the magnets. It looks like you have some on the surface of the magnets still and the clearance you have to the stator is pretty tight IIRC. On mine I took everything off the surface of the magnets then used a Dremel sanding drum to make a radius in the JB between each magnet so the surface was slightly below. If anything...getting to sand/file/machine on JB Weld will make you a believer in how strong it is!:)[/quote [MENTION=17973]RecoilRob[/MENTION] thank you for your thoughts! I will make sure to take the rest of to ensure it fits around the stator.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
So what is going on with your bike.It is work properly
 

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Obsessed with SV1000s
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Flywheel Magnet Repair

Good afternoon folks. Steve here in Panama. I need to know who or where I can get the magnets for a flywheel please. I have a 2005 Suzuki SV1000, and 3 of the 6 magnets when to pieces. Just look at pics and see for yourself. The magnets became finely grained, mixed with oil and grease, and it became some type of sludge. Good thing is that the sludge or magnetic pieces did not make it into the motor. I can't find any store or shop here that has them. I did buy magnets at an auto part store, but I would have to modify those as well to fit.
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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Good afternoon folks. Steve here in Panama. I need to know who or where I can get the magnets for a flywheel please. I have a 2005 Suzuki SV1000, and 3 of the 6 magnets when to pieces. Just look at pics and see for yourself. The magnets became finely grained, mixed with oil and grease, and it became some type of sludge. Good thing is that the sludge or magnetic pieces did not make it into the motor. I can't find any store or shop here that has them. I did buy magnets at an auto part store, but I would have to modify those as well to fit.


Looking at your pictures I does look to me that you have magnet debris all over in the engine. The starter torque limiter unit and the end of the cam chain gear look like there is junk stuck to them.

-ms
 

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Magnets have not yet been re-glued on my SV1000 K4 with 32.000km on the clock, so i better do it before spring and next riding season starts.

All magnets are still in place, but I'm a little unsure wether or not I should:
1: Put some JB weld in the gaps
2: Remove them completly and re-glue with JB weld
3: re-glue and fill the gaps JB weld


The o-ring in the cover started sweating a little oil during this summer, but the plug was tightened by the hand of Zeus. I stiped the allen socket and unable to chisel it out, I pulled off the entire cover. Then I drilled trough the plug and fitted a bolt and nut that i then could use with an impact wrench. :mellow:
Apparently the PO gave the threads of the plug a thick coat of liquid gasket or something...
Decided then the magnets would be fine for the rest of the season and i could fix this winter.
 

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Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
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Magnets have not yet been re-glued on my SV1000 K4 with 32.000km on the clock, so i better do it before spring and next riding season starts.

All magnets are still in place, but I'm a little unsure wether or not I should:
1: Put some JB weld in the gaps
2: Remove them completly and re-glue with JB weld
3: re-glue and fill the gaps JB weld


The o-ring in the cover started sweating a little oil during this summer, but the plug was tightened by the hand of Zeus. I stiped the allen socket and unable to chisel it out, I pulled off the entire cover. Then I drilled trough the plug and fitted a bolt and nut that i then could use with an impact wrench. :mellow:
Apparently the PO gave the threads of the plug a thick coat of liquid gasket or something...
Decided then the magnets would be fine for the rest of the season and i could fix this winter.

If they are still in place, leave them alone, just part fill the gaps...... really only needs a couple of mm's..... as long as you fill evenly and all the way to the back.
Make sure it is filled to the back too..
As long as they are all even height and depth....
All you are looking to do is stop the magnets from sliding toward each other......

The (idiot) PO decided to not replace the o-ring on the plug when it started leaking i presume....painful hey......
 

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If they are still in place, leave them alone, just part fill the gaps...... really only needs a couple of mm's..... as long as you fill evenly and all the way to the back.
Make sure it is filled to the back too..
As long as they are all even height and depth....
All you are looking to do is stop the magnets from sliding toward each other......

The (idiot) PO decided to not replace the o-ring on the plug when it started leaking i presume....painful hey......
Thanks for your feedback. I'll source some JB weld and get the job done before springtime.
 

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Just checked my K5 with 20Kmiles and a couple of my magnets have moved, so going to get them all off and JB weld them on it place

I understand that heat applied to the outside of the rotor will soften the OE epxoy and allow the magnets to be removed

How much heat is required to get the magnets off?
Is it like 100°C (212°F) of or is it more like 250°c (482°F) which would result in the rotor steel starting to discolour?
 

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Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
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Just checked my K5 with 20Kmiles and a couple of my magnets have moved, so going to get them all off and JB weld them on it place

I understand that heat applied to the outside of the rotor will soften the OE epxoy and allow the magnets to be removed

How much heat is required to get the magnets off?
Is it like 100°C (212°F) of or is it more like 250°c (482°F) which would result in the rotor steel starting to discolour?
In all honesty mate, leave the ones that are stuck where they are......they wont shift once you JB between the magnets...
Just make sure you have the magnets in north/south properly, other wise it will effect the charge rate a bit....
Its not so much the glue behind the magnets that is at fault, its the serious vibes and power pulses of the v twin that shear
them off. The JB fill bewteen stops that from occuring. Just the finest even smear of JB on the backs of the loose magnets, let
that set...i uses 6mm dowell bewteen mine to gap them, and after 12 hours you can fill....making sure its even height on all.
You only need 1/3rd of the depth filled, again, its just to stop the shearing.....
 
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