No Electrical Power?? Green connector issue!
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What do you mean by having the ignition cut out? I've had mine stall on me, but only when I'm at idle speed with the clutch pulled and and blipping the throttle.
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When you first sterted having this problem I posted that I had also had a similar issue, however, my problem was a total loss of electrical power, this means no lights, no ignition, no gauges, like if someone had turned off the ignition switch. In fact that is what the dealer found, a conection on the wire harness that goes to the ignition switch, I think it was a faulty connection in a plug in this harness that caused my problem. If I can help you with this and you need more information I can look for the invoice; if I can find it, and see what the technician wrote in as a description for the problem. By the way I hope you are doing better, I saw the picture you posted and all I can say is OOUUCCHH!!!!!!grantmeyer said:
This is what im talking about....total elec. failure...no lights no dash no ignition...mine is an intermitant problem...sometimes for a split second sometimes for 5-10 seconds....it was a split second cut out that unsettled my front end mid corner full lean that caused my off. I just need to know how many other bikes have had ignition problems.
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Yep that's what happened to me while making a right hand turn one afternoon on my way home from work, thing is I never got any electricals back, it stayed in failed mode until the dealer found the problem. That was about six month ago, it's been fine after that.grantmeyer said:
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No ignition cutout but an idea maybe! Maybe it was the tip over switch kicking in that made it die.Suzuki's are famous for that on slower hard corners! :wallbash:
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I posted a thread regarding the Suz tip over switch some time ago.
IF this is the cause of cut outs we need to know. What did the dealers "fix" on SV'S with cut out issues? There has to be a root cause, we don't need anymore crashes due to engine shut downs mid-corner. :no:
Thanks for bringing this to the fore front Grantmeyer. Hope your feeling better. :banana:
IF this is the cause of cut outs we need to know. What did the dealers "fix" on SV'S with cut out issues? There has to be a root cause, we don't need anymore crashes due to engine shut downs mid-corner. :no:
Thanks for bringing this to the fore front Grantmeyer. Hope your feeling better. :banana:
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I had an intermitant starting problem with low miles: no electricity. It turns out that even though the battery terminals were tight and visually looked fine, the cause was corrosion on the negative terminal. I cleaned the connections and lubed with petroleum jelly and the problem has never reoccurred in 4500 miles.
Best wishes,
Dave
Best wishes,
Dave
Got to the bottom of it!!!!!!!!
Finally got to the bottom of this problem..the connector between the ignition switch and the wiring harness was shorting out causing the ignition cut out. This is in the main pin that feeds the ignition relay and it did not pop the 30A main fuse. See atached pic's Bike going to dealers for a new wiring harness / new ignition switch plus full electrical check up.
Finally got to the bottom of this problem..the connector between the ignition switch and the wiring harness was shorting out causing the ignition cut out. This is in the main pin that feeds the ignition relay and it did not pop the 30A main fuse. See atached pic's Bike going to dealers for a new wiring harness / new ignition switch plus full electrical check up.
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Read your crash post, read your ignition post... Hmm, front slide, then you turn the bars a certain way to catch it, which another guy said caused his ignition to cut out, but ended up possibly making you highside...
I'm DEFINITELY not one of these sue happy people, but it occurs to me that if Suzuki doesn't take care of you, you've probably been screwed. You're probably owed a new bike.
Also it would be nice to know if this was fixed on the later bikes.
(I keep having visions of the 1st corner at my track, and having something like this happen when we're all crowded in there... Still haven't bought an SV1000 to race, but it's not looking so good...)
I'm DEFINITELY not one of these sue happy people, but it occurs to me that if Suzuki doesn't take care of you, you've probably been screwed. You're probably owed a new bike.
Also it would be nice to know if this was fixed on the later bikes.
(I keep having visions of the 1st corner at my track, and having something like this happen when we're all crowded in there... Still haven't bought an SV1000 to race, but it's not looking so good...)
One other member had the same problem read Twists post in this thread My guess is heat build up because of the location of the connector.
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I think I have this but not sure, I Was ridin the other day got caught in the rain everything was fine and dandy, got the bike out the next day rode about 10 miles and then my gauges, speedo, lights dimmed and it started bucking badly, but it was for at most 5 seconds and then it stopped for about 2 hrs then it happend again????
My bike isn't under warranty and it sucks that it has this problem it has 7400 miles and is a 2003 svs, any ideas???
My bike isn't under warranty and it sucks that it has this problem it has 7400 miles and is a 2003 svs, any ideas???
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I just noticed this thread. My first SV had this problem. Well I don't know if it was the same exact problem, but the symptoms were the same. The whole bike would just shut down for an instant or several seconds. I never got to the bottom of this problem as I totaled the bike not soon after this developed. The accident I had wasn't related to this problem though. This developed at ~3500 miles on that bike. My replacement SV has over 14,000 and not a hint of this problem, but I know what to look for if it ever does happen.
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On my S a few times I had the bike just quit for no reason. Usually when stopped or stopped and then making a turn. Usually it will be idling fine and then as soon as you hit the throttle it dies. Every time it has happened the FI light came on.
I am pretty sure it was something to do with the map uploaded to my PCIII but it did not happen for the longest time. However I wonder if the bike stalled again on me when I dumped it a few weeks ago. I had stopped and had my feet planted. I just started to go and it died on me. The rear tire locked up and over it went. Because of the road I could not stop all that momentum and over she went.
I have not noticed any such anomalies on my N yet.
I think Suzuki should investigate and issue a recall if necessary. Safety defects should not be taken lightly.
I recently got a recall notice for my 01 VStar 650 I no longer have. Something about the possibility of the rear seat bolt coming loose and causing the rider to loose control. They had mentioned in the report that they have only had 2 actual failures of this part. This is a heck of a lot less then the problem we are having.
I am pretty sure it was something to do with the map uploaded to my PCIII but it did not happen for the longest time. However I wonder if the bike stalled again on me when I dumped it a few weeks ago. I had stopped and had my feet planted. I just started to go and it died on me. The rear tire locked up and over it went. Because of the road I could not stop all that momentum and over she went.
I have not noticed any such anomalies on my N yet.
I think Suzuki should investigate and issue a recall if necessary. Safety defects should not be taken lightly.
I recently got a recall notice for my 01 VStar 650 I no longer have. Something about the possibility of the rear seat bolt coming loose and causing the rider to loose control. They had mentioned in the report that they have only had 2 actual failures of this part. This is a heck of a lot less then the problem we are having.
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I just noticed this thread too.... kinda scary.
I've had -multiple- electrical shorts on the SV, to include the ignition one you speak of. Mine never cut out while riding (thank the biker gawds), but there have been several times I'd turn it off to get gas or go into a store, just to come back out and have a dead bike. I little wire giggling and it would come back to life, so I knew it was a wire short. It happens with my headlights here and there.
The problem is in the connectors, and the shakey nature of a V-twin. The little individual bullet/pin connectors in the plastic plugs can be sort of loose, and the constant rattling will cause them to arc (it is usually a hot wire, in my ignigion harness it was the hot lead to the switch... generally big voltage lines do it most often), which will slowly wear away the contacts and generate heat. The arcs get bigger, hotter, and more frequent, and eventually the plug itself starts to melt, accelerating the process further.
I've currently replaced two connections (one in my headlight harness, and one in the ignition... but not the entire plug mind you, just the one wire) because of this, and I'm about to do one more in the headlight/indicator harness. I'll trace down the offending wire and/or connection, and pull it out of the connector. I'll cut the old tips off and crimp/soldier a tougher individual bullet connector in place, as well as crimp down all the other connections in the harness a little bit.... just to make sure they don't get loose as well. I would simply recommend adding the checking/tightening of your electrical connections to your schedualed maintenece routine, at least one of your 5,000 mile services. If you see a warped or dis-colored connector, you need to fix it quickly (or have it fixed). If anyone wants to see some pictures, I'd be happy to take some for ya'll... just ask.
Cheers :beer:
I've had -multiple- electrical shorts on the SV, to include the ignition one you speak of. Mine never cut out while riding (thank the biker gawds), but there have been several times I'd turn it off to get gas or go into a store, just to come back out and have a dead bike. I little wire giggling and it would come back to life, so I knew it was a wire short. It happens with my headlights here and there.
The problem is in the connectors, and the shakey nature of a V-twin. The little individual bullet/pin connectors in the plastic plugs can be sort of loose, and the constant rattling will cause them to arc (it is usually a hot wire, in my ignigion harness it was the hot lead to the switch... generally big voltage lines do it most often), which will slowly wear away the contacts and generate heat. The arcs get bigger, hotter, and more frequent, and eventually the plug itself starts to melt, accelerating the process further.
I've currently replaced two connections (one in my headlight harness, and one in the ignition... but not the entire plug mind you, just the one wire) because of this, and I'm about to do one more in the headlight/indicator harness. I'll trace down the offending wire and/or connection, and pull it out of the connector. I'll cut the old tips off and crimp/soldier a tougher individual bullet connector in place, as well as crimp down all the other connections in the harness a little bit.... just to make sure they don't get loose as well. I would simply recommend adding the checking/tightening of your electrical connections to your schedualed maintenece routine, at least one of your 5,000 mile services. If you see a warped or dis-colored connector, you need to fix it quickly (or have it fixed). If anyone wants to see some pictures, I'd be happy to take some for ya'll... just ask.
Cheers :beer:
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