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It was just the damn battery!!! I used the battery on my other non SV to check for shorts and the bike came to life! got a new battery and am back on the road. Oh well, the green connector will never give me a problem now, since it's gone.
 

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"We have a bad connection.."

Well took tank off before my latest Scotland trip and found the green connector nestling cosily down near the headstock, looking all innocent...
Chickened out of doing it in the time I had so left it for another day.
Valve clearances are coming up in the next couple of weeks so I'll probably attack it at the same time when the airbox etc. is off.
 

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I bypassed my entire green connector this past weekend. It was part of a bigger issue though, and I honestly still haven't gotten it separated to see if it's damaged.

I got the bike at auction with no keys. I ordered replacement ignition, fuel cap and cowl locks on eBay. The ignition I purchased was apparently for a GSXR but happened to also fit an SV1000. I had to hack off the plug and solder it in, but it turns out that the switch works a little different than the SV1000 one.

The red and orange wires are the same, but this switch had a green and black/white wire instead of brown and orange/yellow like the SV.

After installation I got the blinking FI light and a code check showed that it was the immobilizer. Also, my blinkers and taillight weren't working.

So, I ended up doing some custom wiring. I wired the red wire normally. I patched the brown (illumination) wire in with the orange wire so lights would get power with ignition on. I wired the black/white wire in with the orange/yellow wire and added the correct resistor jumped between orange and orange/yellow. I didn't use the green wire from the ignition at all.

While I did all of this I bypassed the green connector as I was getting intermittent "restarts" on the gauge where it would go blank and then come back up, or it would cut off then I tried to engage the starter. I figured I'd rather bypass than hope it was okay and then get stranded. It wasn't a difficult job at all, but the leads I had to work with on the bike side were short after cutting the connector off.
 

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Green menace

Well twice now I've had the bike apart and looked at the dreaded green connector but can't really see any way to get into the thing, space is so tight in there.
I know it's a failure waiting to happen and need to get it done.
I think I'll do it when I do the TPS adjustment.....:HMM:
 

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A square wheel rollin' !!
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Yeah man, just pull the airbox. It takes about 5 min to get it out. Separating the green connector may take hours though ... mine's still stuck.
Yup. ^^^^


Beyond that, the Green Connector seems to be an issue only for the "S" model bikes. Take a look through and see how many "N" models have had a failure. You'll be surprised.

The "S" has dual 55w headlights as compared to the single 55W on the "N".


.....................Blake
 

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I just got bit by the green connector issue, fortunately after it was laid up for winter. It did act up twice last season, but it was so quick to remedy itself I didn't think much of it.

I replaced the connector with a waterproof amphenol connector, rated at 30 amps per contact. That should do me for awhile. I could have just bypassed it, but I had access to connectors and all of the components, so I figured what the hell.

Running great now, but on the stand waiting for the sprockets and chain to arrive. :cool:
 

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GREEN CONNECTOR FAILURE Started my 2003 SV1000sk3 last week in the garage, after 10 min it cut out all dead no power, checked the obvious with multi meter but couldn't resolve. After a bit of browsing on the web found this portal, have to say its spot on. Lifted the tank found the green connector, power in but none out. Took a while to get apart sure enough live wire connector burnt out. I just cut the red wire on the ignition side and the red and black wire on the battery side close to the connector and connected them up with an inline connector, then plugged the green plug back together, all OK now. If you can't get the plug apart suggest you just by pass the live wire as I suspect it will always be this terminal that burns out. Now for the summer :)
 

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So, I've finally found out what the problem is. I got my 2003 SV1000S earlier this year with about 30000 miles on the clock. I had it cut out on me in summer, and I wiggled the cable to the green block and it all came up and worked well for a bit. But now it's become more consistently erratic, so that I don't want to ride the bike until I clear the problem. Having trouble separating the block at the moment as the bottom isn't accessible. A bit worrying, really.

And now I've bypassed the block, which seems to have solved the problem. But now I'm getting an FI...

...a C21. Not reconnected the IAT sensor. Doh!
 

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I have a green connector on my DL650 too! Just checked it yesterday for the first time. It's OK.

SV green connector still fine too. Some just don't have the problem. :unsure:
 

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Had the green connector issue today.

The other day i turned key on and nothing happened.
but then electrics turned on when i released clutch when manoeuvring and engine turned over.

Then today in carpark electrics just cut out while idling.
-battery fine
-fuses fine
Decided to check connector and sure enough one black connection.

and thankfully it was a hardware store i was parked outside.
$15 worth of tools/parts later I'm up and running. This is just a temporary fix to get home and do something proper.

-pulled burnt wires out of connector
-installed plug back together
-crimp connected the burnt wires together
 

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I replaced the whole plug with a waterproof rubber plug many many years ago....never had the issue again....
I know run LED headlights, so much less stress as well.....

Sure Seal connecotr is what it was called, same as this design.... water proof to about 2 meters without silicon sealing, but up to 30 if sealed with silicon, from memory....
 

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I replaced the whole plug with a waterproof rubber plug many many years ago....never had the issue again....
I know run LED headlights, so much less stress as well.....

Sure Seal connecotr is what it was called, same as this design.... water proof to about 2 meters without silicon sealing, but up to 30 if sealed with silicon, from memory....
I might get myself one of those you never know when you may need it.
 

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2003 SV1000S
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They do have special install tools for getting the metal terminals in place.... only downside, sorry i should have said, is that they are usually in a kit with the tools ..... the terminals are seperate, as you install them in the required qty's, and there are also blanking plugs in case you dont use all the ports....

THe kit i got was when i was working for Caterpillar......
 

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I replaced the whole plug with a waterproof rubber plug many many years ago....never had the issue again....
I know run LED headlights, so much less stress as well.....

Sure Seal connecotr is what it was called, same as this design.... water proof to about 2 meters without silicon sealing, but up to 30 if sealed with silicon, from memory....
Might investigate that plug thanks.
Did you do a full LED conversion or just replace the bulbs.

If so do you know what model, colour and brightness?

My bike is charging fine but I've hooked a voltmeter in to the parking lights replacing a cigarette lighter plug i had and if i sit on high beams and use heated grips in winter it's only reading mid 10 volts and high 10 when just high beams.

Battery voltage is fine but obviously that relay and switch is dealing with a lot of current
 

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2003 SV1000S
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The heated grips will be pulling a lot of power for sure......some of the tech heads on here may be able to advise a more efficient way of wiring the grips in ???

As far as the light go, they were ebay units (cant find them again)..... identical except in colour to Cyclops...... Notice the little sheild on the upper led ? That provides a "cut-line" on the low beam, geives a defined limit or edge to the light so it doesn't dazzle oncoming drivers..... Most of them out there dont have that sheild or even the end cap, and they are nasty to other road users......

The bay units were $55 aud in 2017 for the pair, but the Cyclops ones are about $75 each from memory..... I love the light they put out at 6500k, really white and work great in the rain too....road lines light up nicely.....

They come with a little converter box the size of a match box..... Only thing i had to do was to shorten the rubber sleeve portion of the seal rubber where it contacts the globe as it bunched up too much. You put the steel 3 prong plate in first, then push and twist the globe unit in. They have fan units on them too to keep them cool so you get a high tech whirring sound on start up... ha ha
 

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I wouldn't have expected the heated grips to pull all that much power - hotgrips says theirs pull 30-36W. Something? Sure. But I'm surprised that it drops the battery down to the 10V range. Given that it's in the high 10V range without the grips on, it sounds to me like something is wrong - either your stator isn't in great shape, your flywheel magnets have shifted some (changing how it pulses), or you have something else drawing a bunch of power. While I don't expect it to be charging at full voltage (14-14.5) at idle, you're draining the battery when idling which isn't normal.
 

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I wouldn't have expected the heated grips to pull all that much power - hotgrips says theirs pull 30-36W. Something? Sure. But I'm surprised that it drops the battery down to the 10V range. Given that it's in the high 10V range without the grips on, it sounds to me like something is wrong - either your stator isn't in great shape, your flywheel magnets have shifted some (changing how it pulses), or you have something else drawing a bunch of power. While I don't expect it to be charging at full voltage (14-14.5) at idle, you're draining the battery when idling which isn't normal.
Voltmeter is plugged in to the lights not the battery so would expect a voltage drop.
Voltages measured from the battery are fine.

Having had the flywheel and green connector issues in quick succession i installed the voltmeter.
Grips are the lower draw. Less than 4 amps. Those twin 55W lights on the other hand....

The large voltage drop happens when i high beam. The grips is far lower drop.
Anything i can do to reduce the draw on that line the better.

Anyone know the current through the green connector?
Also the amperage rating for the factory green connector?
 

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Green connector - how to get at it?

I have recently got a 2003 S with just over 30.000 km (approx 19.000 miles) on the clock.

Last week my engine started stuttering and occasionally dying. Reading this thread I think the symptoms point to the green connector.

So today I wanted to fix it. However, I simply couldn't get at it! Will I have to remove the lower part of the airbox? If yes, how is that done?

Anyway, there's still this thick and stiff cable bundle covering it. Can that be moved or removed?

Any tips would be much appreciated!
 

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