Regulator rectifier

2571 Views 23 Replies 9 Participants Last post by estevns, 8 d ago

estevns

Discussion Starter · Sep 6, 2021

After some reading and Youtube I've started to wonder if I should replace the stock R/R to a mosfet type.
I can be a pain to source a brand new due to chinese copies, but finding a used stock from a modern bike with the mosfet type already fitted should be the way to go.

What's your thoughts and have you already swapped the R/R for something else?
Can't seem to find much here on the portal.

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

vic_bitter

· #2 · Sep 6, 2021

It's on here dig deeper.

Missing Link

· #3 · Sep 6, 2021

There are some threads around about it.....

I am still using my OEM reg from new... i swapped it out thinking it was getting sick, and then the plug burnt out and i had to swap it back in, works perfect still.....

You will find that either schmidt314 or oldbaldsob suggested bypassing the bike loom for the reg wiring, which reduces resistance, especially in old looms....

Standard, there are 2 plugs involved.... the stator loom runs up past the rear cylinder and plugs into the loom behind the side panel under your left bum cheek.....then that exits the loom again under the tank, below the TPS and plugs into the reg.... if the 3 reg wires alone are pulled out of the stator loom and then directly connected to the reg, it takes probaby 500mm of wire and 1 plug out of the
equation. Making it much easier on the stator and the reg.....

Reactions: 1

Urbanjugle

· #4 · Sep 7, 2021

swapped my oem RR for shindengen mosfet, oem rr was getting extremly hot when bike started, so it is gone and new mosfet RR in bike for 4K miles w/o any problem.
had to relocate it in the tail area under passenger seat as i couldnt attach it in same location.

Reactions: 1

estevns

Discussion Starter · #5 · Sep 7, 2021

Thanks for the feedback - will keep my eye out for a mosfet RR.

Shindengen mosfet RR seems to be found on almost any new Japanese and BMW bike so should be easy to sorce a used one from a crashed biketo avoid some cheap knockoff.

Shouldn't be a problem to bypass the original wire harness and makes sense to do so.
I should probably do a better job of searching the forum before going ahead.

However I do believe the load on the wire harness is quite a lot lower on the N-model since it's only got a single bulb up front. I've been looking into fitting a 7" LED headlight which got a even lower load somewhere around ~20w instead of 55w.

Reactions: 1

Missing Link

· #6 · Sep 7, 2021

My only concern with the reg inside the bodywork is cooling......
I haven't see this Shindengen unit to know how it looks.....
But, having it up there gives the opportunity to delete 1 plug from the equation anyway.....just wire the stator direct to the reg without using the loom....

Reactions: 1

estevns

Discussion Starter · #7 · Sep 8, 2021

You are right about bypassing the wiring completely both from stator to RR and RR to battery.
Hope to do a little more touring next year when Covid-19 are done with (fingers crossed). Will be nice to know it's 100% bulletproof and not just 90% - would hate to be stranded somewhere far from home.

You are mentioning the RR hidden in the bodywork - are there some difference between K3 and K4+ or just S and N?
On my bike it's located just at the bottom edge of the frame on the left of the front cylinder. If remeber correcly it also sits differently on the SV650S K3.

Tire Wheel Land vehicle Fuel tank Automotive fuel system

I believe the stock RR are Shindegen aswell, they do look very similar.

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Reactions: 1

Missing Link

· #8 · Sep 8, 2021

estevns said:
You are right about bypassing the wiring completely both from stator to RR and RR to battery.
Hope to do a little more touring next year when Covid-19 are done with (fingers crossed). Will be nice to know it's 100% bulletproof and not just 90% - would hate to be stranded somewhere far from home.

You are mentioning the RR hidden in the bodywork - are there some difference between K3 and K4+ or just S and N?
On my bike it's located just at the bottom edge of the frame on the left of the front cylinder. If remeber correcly it also sits differently on the SV650S K3.

I believe the stock RR are Shindegen aswell, they do look very similar.

The post by Urbanjungle mentioned moving the Reg under the tailsection because it wouldn't bolt in the same place as the OEM unit....

So i was keen to see it and why it is so different.....and i was concerned about heat dissipation in a closed in space with no airflow

Urbanjugle

· #9 · Sep 15, 2021 (Edited)

the new mosfet RR is bit bigger ( fins) and the hole spacing is also different compare to oem RR - so it wont bolt on to the bracket near engine +frame location, unless you make your custom bracket but i was too lazy for that task...( done that on my TL when swapped for mosfet RR - custom bracket )
anyway
the new one i also wired directly to battery and since these mosfets RR dont get hot i find new home for it in the tail of SV and its happy there...no tail plastic melting, all works great and SV has bright headlights ans steady charge.
i bought new mosfet RR kit but lot of ppl buy used ones from R1's , just dont know which model, year..

Reactions: 2

Missing Link

· #10 · Sep 15, 2021

Excellent news on that Urbanjungle..... you would also have lost one plug and probably 12 - 15 inches of loom....

Reactions: 1

estevns

Discussion Starter · #11 · Sep 15, 2021

Urbanjugle said:
the new mosfet RR is bit bigger ( fins) and the hole spacing is also different compare to oem RR - so it wont bolt on to the bracket near engine +frame location, unless you make your custom bracket but i was too lazy for that task...( done that on my TL when swapped for mosfet RR - custom bracket )
anyway
the new one i also wired directly to battery and since these mosfets RR dont get hot i find new home for it in the tail of SV and its happy there...no tail plastic melting, all works great and SV has bright headlights ans steady charge.
i bought new mosfet RR kit but lot of ppl buy used ones from R1's , just dont know which year..

Thanks for the info. I think I'll just make some kind of adapter bracket so it can sit in the original position. I like to keep the trunk as clean as possible. Are able to fit a pair of sneakers and a disc lock in there.

Did you make any changes to the three wires coming off the stator? Or simply used a extension which plugs into the stock wiring and fits the plug on the R/R?

Found this on Youtube:

Missing Link

· #12 · Sep 15, 2021

He would have plugged the stator direct (with adapted plug) to the reg.....

Reactions: 2

Urbanjugle

· #13 · Sep 16, 2021

yes its wired directly from stator to the one RR plug conector and than directly via fuse from another plug conector from RR to battery, than you can seal one oem conector ( i think 4 pin conector - black one ) because you wont need it anymore.
below is also the website i got it from, its plug n play.

SHINDENGEN MOSFET FH020AA REGULATOR/RECTIFIER KIT – MOTOELECTRIX

Shindengen Mosfet FH020AA Regulator/Rectifi..., Price: $129.95

motoelectrix.com

Reactions: 1

Randy Singer

· #14 · Sep 19, 2021

estevns said:
...replace the stock R/R to a mosfet type...

Rick's Motorsport Electrics offers a plug and play MOSFET regulator for the SV1000:

ricksmotorsportelectrics.com

Hot Shot Series Suzuki Rectifier Regulator 10_206H

Hot Shot Series Suzuki Rectifier-Regulator

ricksmotorsportelectrics.com

Reactions: 2

jonnywdwd

· #15 · Sep 26, 2021

I'm posting to this thread because the title is relevant and hopefully it will add useful info to those searching in the future.

My stator-side wiring for the RegRec is melting the connector, so in the process of addressing that issue I'm also considering replacing the RR with a Shindengen SH775 which, from most posts I've read on various sites, seems to be a series regulator which supposedly helps keep the stator cooler.

One of the other things I've read which is a little concerning is ... "it stops regulating properly at about 10K rpm".
Is that true, what does that actually mean, and how serious is it in practice? Does it start letting 20v through and fry the battery? Does it explode in a ball of fire? Does it make you a hot cuppa?

I found a couple of posts on SV-Portal where I've read about people intending to install a SH775, but found no subsequent reports of success (not to say they don't exist - just I didn't find them).

I'm not looking for info about the Compufire or SH847 - I've read enough about them from reliable people on here to know that they are good units. They are just too painful on the wallet nerve for me. Just looking for info on the SH775. Has anyone used it reliably for a significant period of time?

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Missing Link

· #16 · Sep 26, 2021

Cant comment on the SH775, but, as far as making toast from the plug, i have been advised by some long termers that connecting directly to the reg from the stator is a very good move.
Currently, as you would know, the stator plugs into the loom up under your left butt cheek, and then back along the loom to the reg plug near the rear throttle body flange...... So, 2 plugs, increased resistance, also, in an old loom, 500mm (18 inches) or more, of extra wring thats not needed, also building resistance.....

I will be doing this in the near future...... i may be preaching to the converted, but, at least, while reading this, you can enjoy a cuppa made the old fashoned way (over an open fire)....

Reactions: 1

jonnywdwd

· #17 · Oct 14, 2021

The SH775 arrived the other day (used, from ebay, off a Harley Street 750). At some point in the middle distance I'll install it, but I would like to do some thermal imaging before and after, like was done on here (by MS I think) for the Compufire unit a while back, just to add useful data for the SH775. Man, those imaging things are expensive. Any advice on how to record heat moderately accurately on the cheap? Otherwise a turkey thermometer wired to the stator would be about my style.

oldbaldsob

· #18 · Oct 14, 2021

jonnywdwd said:
....Man, those imaging things are expensive. Any advice on how to record heat moderately accurately on the cheap? Otherwise a turkey thermometer wired to the stator would be about my style.

I've seen smartphone apps for thermal imaging.

Missing Link

· #19 · Oct 15, 2021

You could rest a heat sensitive appendage on it and see if it burns more with one or the other.....

Oh, use your finger.....

......

estevns

Discussion Starter · #20 · Apr 6, 2022

So after some while I've been looking into this again.
Great info on Home

I've also done a lot of Google searching which lead me across some Honda and Ducati forums, which mentions the same FH020AA and the newer SH847.

In Europe we don't got anyone specialized in selling genuine Shindengen R/R- taxes and fees from the US would be a pain.
However this have lead me to looking at what I could find off eBay from wrecked bikes.
Suzuki, Honda, Kawasaki and Yamaha all uses the FH020AA on their newer bikes (2010 and up) ranging from touring to race bikes.

Based on the information from Roadstercycle (regarding running LED headlighting), the fact it's never (however which also means less tested) and used on L4 and up V-Stroms (1000 and 1050) I'm going with the SH847.

Suzuki spare part number is 32800-31J00 which make it easy to source around the world.

To be honest I'm still not fully understanding the pros and cons of different R/R designs: SCR, Mosfet, Series. The conclusion from reading what I suspect to be wise peoples words is that the SH847 is expensive but will reduce load (heat) on the stator.

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