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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After some reading and Youtube I've started to wonder if I should replace the stock R/R to a mosfet type.
I can be a pain to source a brand new due to chinese copies, but finding a used stock from a modern bike with the mosfet type already fitted should be the way to go.

What's your thoughts and have you already swapped the R/R for something else?
Can't seem to find much here on the portal.
 

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There are some threads around about it.....

I am still using my OEM reg from new... i swapped it out thinking it was getting sick, and then the plug burnt out and i had to swap it back in, works perfect still.....

You will find that either schmidt314 or oldbaldsob suggested bypassing the bike loom for the reg wiring, which reduces resistance, especially in old looms....

Standard, there are 2 plugs involved.... the stator loom runs up past the rear cylinder and plugs into the loom behind the side panel under your left bum cheek.....then that exits the loom again under the tank, below the TPS and plugs into the reg.... if the 3 reg wires alone are pulled out of the stator loom and then directly connected to the reg, it takes probaby 500mm of wire and 1 plug out of the
equation. Making it much easier on the stator and the reg.....
 
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swapped my oem RR for shindengen mosfet, oem rr was getting extremly hot when bike started, so it is gone and new mosfet RR in bike for 4K miles w/o any problem.
had to relocate it in the tail area under passenger seat as i couldnt attach it in same location.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the feedback - will keep my eye out for a mosfet RR.

Shindengen mosfet RR seems to be found on almost any new Japanese and BMW bike so should be easy to sorce a used one from a crashed biketo avoid some cheap knockoff.

Shouldn't be a problem to bypass the original wire harness and makes sense to do so.
I should probably do a better job of searching the forum before going ahead.

However I do believe the load on the wire harness is quite a lot lower on the N-model since it's only got a single bulb up front. I've been looking into fitting a 7" LED headlight which got a even lower load somewhere around ~20w instead of 55w.
 

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My only concern with the reg inside the bodywork is cooling......
I haven't see this Shindengen unit to know how it looks.....
But, having it up there gives the opportunity to delete 1 plug from the equation anyway.....just wire the stator direct to the reg without using the loom....
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You are right about bypassing the wiring completely both from stator to RR and RR to battery.
Hope to do a little more touring next year when Covid-19 are done with (fingers crossed). Will be nice to know it's 100% bulletproof and not just 90% - would hate to be stranded somewhere far from home.

You are mentioning the RR hidden in the bodywork - are there some difference between K3 and K4+ or just S and N?
On my bike it's located just at the bottom edge of the frame on the left of the front cylinder. If remeber correcly it also sits differently on the SV650S K3.

Tire Wheel Land vehicle Fuel tank Automotive fuel system



I believe the stock RR are Shindegen aswell, they do look very similar.
 

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You are right about bypassing the wiring completely both from stator to RR and RR to battery.
Hope to do a little more touring next year when Covid-19 are done with (fingers crossed). Will be nice to know it's 100% bulletproof and not just 90% - would hate to be stranded somewhere far from home.

You are mentioning the RR hidden in the bodywork - are there some difference between K3 and K4+ or just S and N?
On my bike it's located just at the bottom edge of the frame on the left of the front cylinder. If remeber correcly it also sits differently on the SV650S K3.



I believe the stock RR are Shindegen aswell, they do look very similar.
The post by Urbanjungle mentioned moving the Reg under the tailsection because it wouldn't bolt in the same place as the OEM unit....

So i was keen to see it and why it is so different.....and i was concerned about heat dissipation in a closed in space with no airflow
 

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the new mosfet RR is bit bigger ( fins) and the hole spacing is also different compare to oem RR - so it wont bolt on to the bracket near engine +frame location, unless you make your custom bracket but i was too lazy for that task...( done that on my TL when swapped for mosfet RR - custom bracket )
anyway
the new one i also wired directly to battery and since these mosfets RR dont get hot i find new home for it in the tail of SV and its happy there...no tail plastic melting, all works great and SV has bright headlights ans steady charge.
i bought new mosfet RR kit but lot of ppl buy used ones from R1's , just dont know which model, year..
 

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Excellent news on that Urbanjungle..... you would also have lost one plug and probably 12 - 15 inches of loom....
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
the new mosfet RR is bit bigger ( fins) and the hole spacing is also different compare to oem RR - so it wont bolt on to the bracket near engine +frame location, unless you make your custom bracket but i was too lazy for that task...( done that on my TL when swapped for mosfet RR - custom bracket )
anyway
the new one i also wired directly to battery and since these mosfets RR dont get hot i find new home for it in the tail of SV and its happy there...no tail plastic melting, all works great and SV has bright headlights ans steady charge.
i bought new mosfet RR kit but lot of ppl buy used ones from R1's , just dont know which year..
Thanks for the info. I think I'll just make some kind of adapter bracket so it can sit in the original position. I like to keep the trunk as clean as possible. Are able to fit a pair of sneakers and a disc lock in there.

Did you make any changes to the three wires coming off the stator? Or simply used a extension which plugs into the stock wiring and fits the plug on the R/R?

Found this on Youtube:
 

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He would have plugged the stator direct (with adapted plug) to the reg.....
 

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yes its wired directly from stator to the one RR plug conector and than directly via fuse from another plug conector from RR to battery, than you can seal one oem conector ( i think 4 pin conector - black one ) because you wont need it anymore.
below is also the website i got it from, its plug n play.
 
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