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A square wheel rollin' !!
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Bottom line, I had it proven on my own bike, in front of my own eyes, that the chambering plates did NOT add power anywhere at WOT.
I have looked at the dyno charts you provided and it sure looks to me that the plates do what Prophet said they did. They slightly increased power output throughout the RPM band and broadened the power band a bit. Look at your charts again. Click on the dyno chart and zoom all the way in.

"Two runs are shown, one with Prophets intake chamber, one without. As you can see, no difference between the two. Run 1002 is with the intake camber." http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1851967610&postcount=5

If the run marked "1002" is the run with the plates VS the "1004" run without the plates, then I'll keep the plates, thank you.

http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=69118&d=1318787774

.................................Blake
 

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I have looked at the dyno charts you provided and it sure looks to me that the plates do what Prophet said they did. They slightly increased power output throughout the RPM band and broadened the power band a bit. Look at your charts again. Click on the dyno chart and zoom all the way in.
I've been searching the web for 'repeatability / accuracy' of dynamometers, but couldn't find an answer.

Personally I feel that two consecutive dyno runs with no changes whatsoever would yield similar differences...

D.
 

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Hi Mike. What is your take on all this STV removing, drilling, plates, stacks?? Do you think its best performance just to remove STVs and STV axles? What about airbox drilling, sawing, snorkling and other "torture", do you think there is any real performance hidden in airbox mod or will it just make your ears bleed? :)
I did a dyno with and without homemade velocity stacks and it gained peak 5bhp between 6250 and 7250 rpm but lost 4bhp between 8500 and 9500rpm

regards Kristian.
 

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2003 SV1000s (YC2)
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Throttle Body Modifications the SCHMIDT314 Way https://www.sv-portal.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51266


If we had stacks with a full round bell mouth in the same length there might be marginal gains, but increasing the length on the stack like you indicate, mostly moves their effect lower.

Airbox volume might help, Suzuki having recycled the same basic design and size from the 650 hardly gives confidence that it has been optimised. If you join the crankcase ventilation and pair systems then you can delete that internal divide in the airbox for a little more internal volume.

My understanding is that the rubber intake snorkel, especially the shorter 05+ version, adds basically no restriction. Simply removing it and leaving an oval hole with an abrupt edge could be worse. Having said that it was the longer snorkel that I removed without a full understanding of this, with the opening enlarged so the top just works as a splash guard. Suzuki was definitely also working to limit intake noise when they designed it.

I would love to try making a larger airbox bottom from Fiberglass or carbon fiber, to use with the same filter panel. Optimizing the space below with the STV system removed, and above with the tank lifted, could probably double the volume between the velocity stacks and the filter panel.
 

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Yes bigger airbox volume might be benefecial... Rud1e made airbox bigger and stacks and got gains, https://www.sv-portal.com/forums/5-...66-sv-dyno-results-all-dyno-info-here-45.html

Today I made some 3D printed parts and was able to remove STV shafts without the STV actuator feedback going haywire and throwing errors in display. Basicly the actuator works directly on the sensor potmeter and thinks it moving the STV plates, but its not :) Printed some plugs for the shaft holes too.
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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Yes bigger airbox volume might be benefecial... Rud1e made airbox bigger and stacks and got gains, https://www.sv-portal.com/forums/5-...66-sv-dyno-results-all-dyno-info-here-45.html



Today I made some 3D printed parts and was able to remove STV shafts without the STV actuator feedback going haywire and throwing errors in display. Basicly the actuator works directly on the sensor potmeter and thinks it moving the STV plates, but its not :) Printed some plugs for the shaft holes too.


When I had tried something similar in the past, the first interation I thought was the best actually didn’t work because it was actuating the position sensor in the incorrect direction...
Second iteration kind of worked, but for some reason was throwing FI errors every now and again.

Your set up looks pretty slick.
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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5,113 Posts
Hi Mike. What is your take on all this STV removing, drilling, plates, stacks?? Do you think its best performance just to remove STVs and STV axles? What about airbox drilling, sawing, snorkling and other "torture", do you think there is any real performance hidden in airbox mod or will it just make your ears bleed? :)

I did a dyno with and without homemade velocity stacks and it gained peak 5bhp between 6250 and 7250 rpm but lost 4bhp between 8500 and 9500rpm



regards Kristian.


On heavily modified engines the air box is a limiting factor.

I actually like the STVs and if I could find a way to easily reprogram, I think this is potentially a good route.

If you want flow, take everything out, and get the proper mapping done.

On stock engines and leaving plates in, I worked on a compromise that I thought worked well. I never liked the idea of drilling the STVs so I made a few sets that trimmed the ends flat to allow air flow at the edges and directed at the opening area to match the main plates.

-ms
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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Do you have the Woolich software, there is a STP map


I do, but to be honest I have moved on from SV1000 stuff. I still work on piles of SV1000/DL1000 but focus my efforts on many more late model bikes.

-ms
 

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Just around to trying this mod, after giving up on the STVs ages ago... only had a short ride this evening, but the bike actually does feel a little snappier in roll-on scenarios. Needs a little dithering with the mixture, but that's easy enough.

.
 
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