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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I am checking the CPS because I am having a loss of power issue when I open up to full throttle. Everything seems to be OK but I noticed the new sensor doesn't have any type of coating or silicone on the connections. Could this be causing a problem. Here is the picture of the new one next to the old one. I hope this picture downloads as I am computer illiterate
Circuit component Coil Wood Electrical wiring Cameras & optics
 

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Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
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1,900 Posts
What year bike have you got ?
2 sensors ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No just one sensor that's the new stator next to the old one. I ended up putting some high temp silicone glue over the connections. My bike is actually running the way it should!! Finally!! One of the screws on the tps wasn't very tight. I think it was on the verge of moving. Once I tighten it up and put that silicone over the connections everything was good
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Man she was running good and bam! It was stuttering and losing power again. This was happening at higher rpms. Between 7000 and 8000. I am absolutely stumped. I don't know what else to check. I don't want to just throw money at it and it not be fixed.
 

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Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
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1,900 Posts
Is this happening when riding it ?
If so.....try bypassing the side stand switch. Undo the connector under the tank behind the rear rocker cover, and bridge the "bike" side of the connector to fool the ecu..... test ride and see....
Otherwise, when riding, sometimes the gear position (neutral switch) can be fouled up.....its a clutch out job.....not hard, just a pain.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I already bypassed the side stand, and yes this is happening while I am riding. It seems like it got a little worse. If I am just cruising which is not often it doesnt happen. How do I go about checking the neutral switch
 

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Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
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1,900 Posts
The neutral switch is behind the clutch.....so its a buy gasket, drain the coolant, remove cover and then the clutch....its behind the clutch.....if you look, you can see the wire exiting the
cover similar to the stator wiring on the other side.....
Remove the switch and clean it....they can get fouled up.

Before doing this though, get your plug leads off, unscrew the plug cap off the lead and trim 5mm off the lead, wash it and the cap in brake clean and reinstall.....the leads get feral
and the resistance can get all messed up.
 

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The neutral switch is behind the clutch.....so its a buy gasket, drain the coolant, remove cover and then the clutch....its behind the clutch.....if you look, you can see the wire exiting the
cover similar to the stator wiring on the other side.....
Remove the switch and clean it....they can get fouled up.

Before doing this though, get your plug leads off, unscrew the plug cap off the lead and trim 5mm off the lead, wash it and the cap in brake clean and reinstall.....the leads get feral
and the resistance can get all messed up.
The neutral sensor must be ground and then polished to bring it into working condition. Its incorrect operation leads to an uncertain determination of the injection map in the ECU in various gears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The neutral sensor must be ground and then polished to bring it into working condition. Its incorrect operation leads to an uncertain determination of the injection map in the ECU in various gears.
Also I don't think the previous owner ever rode the bike as aggressive as I do
 
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