Speedo Replacement?

Well . . .

The bike will run w/o the speedometer cluster connected. W/o the speedometer connected, the engine RPMs still react to the pulling of the clutch (presumably launching a different fuel MAP). It would SEEM there’s no initial & obvious downside to eliminating the OEM speedometer.

Unfortunately, LCD screen on my speedometer cluster was so close to complete failure that it gave up the ghost somewhere during the unbolting & wire disconnect process (the rest of the cluster appears untrammeled). So, instead of an almost unreadable LCD screen, I now have a completely unreadable screen. 🤦‍♂️

I found the attached pin out, of all places, on a TL forum where a user was swapping out an old TL1000 cluster for an SV1000 cluster (times have changed). From my initial testing (wire color & voltage), the pin out appears largely correct for my 2003. The main differences are the “fuel signal wires”. I suspect this is the result of later bikes featuring dual fuel thermistors (possibly even fuel gauges?).

Harvest a screen from a used Speedo cluster: This was a great idea; however, in The States, the used speedometer clusters all require “stupid money”. The lowest price I found is $100 & it was literally ripped off the bike in a crash (the was no evidence, nor assurance of proper function). The ones that feature pics of a “working” LCD screen are closer to $200 (& who knows if they’ll display properly in bright environments).

I’ve ordered one of the ubiquitous <$35 universal speedometers from Amazon. I’m hoping it can be configured to use the existing speed signal & not require the “rotating magnet”. I’m not certain how the new speedometer’s fuel gauge is programmed, so the “low fuel light signal” may get wired to the “headlight” indicator (headlights for motorcycles are required at all times in The States).

I plan to leave the OEM speedometer in place, but flipped & upside down. All of the wire taps for the new speedometer will be protected inside the OEM speedometer’s housing. Further, keeping the old speedometer connected will hopefully eliminate any “unintended consequences” such as my infamous “clutch switch relay” workaround.

If there’s an interest in this process & result, please let me know & I’ll endeavor to keep the group apprised. If not, no worries; I don’t wish to clog this venue with irrelevant twaddle.

Thanks to everyone for all of the help!

Donor Screen: As ML indicated, pressing in a screen from a donor speedometer cluster would be a doddle & would have the benefit of maintaining an accurate odometer reading. Unfortunately, there are no donor QUALITY speedometer clusters that I can find for anything close to a reasonable price.

Hobby Screen: Your idea getting a hobby screen (Raspberry Pi & the like) is a good one; unfortunately, as you can see from the arrows in the attached pic, Suzuki used either some proprietary interconnect or a then available standard that I’ve been unable to locate a pin out. The connectors on the top are labeled “CNLB” (big) & “CNLA” (small). The bottom connectors are labeled “CNLC” & “CNLD” (respectively). I don’t know enough about electronics to make heads or tails of this. If there are others with better electronic insight, I’d gladly abandon my “replacement speedometer” path in favor your (CDCobra’s) hobby screen. If anyone knows a venue for better speedometer parts (ML’s “donor screen”), I’m open to that as well. Either would be MUCH easier & less fraught with danger of unintended consequences than my current path.

Please don’t be bashful regarding suggestions, insight or venues.

flashslburg said:

The instrument panels sv650 and SV 1000 are interchangeable.The difference is only in the firmware. I can reshape without any problems with maintaining mileage. It is possible to modify your firmware if you provide it. I can also find the LCD screen from the original dashboard. There is only one problem, and that is your sanctions policy. If you can find a way around, I will help.
In addition, you yourself can solder the chip with the firmware into a serviceable dashboard, preserving the functionality and mileage.

Click to expand...

Flashslburg -

Thank you for your kind offer. I should know by 10am ET Wednesday the extent of my issue. It could be the polarized film will solve the problem & the speedometer panel will be more readable than before.

I was not aware there was a firmware issue between 650/1000 speedometers - I assumed it would be “plug & play” - yet another thank you for that insight.

“sanctions policy”. Are you referring to international trade sanctions? If so, another thank you. While I’m certainly generally aware of the sanctions, and, if asked, would say that technology & electronics would be among them. That said, it never occurred to me (it should have) those sanctions would apply to a forum for a 20 year old motorcycle.

Everyone -

Please know that I’m aware this is an apolitical forum & my post is intended to be apolitical. I am just marveling at the reach (& likely unintended consequences - much like the “clutch switch relay” workaround detailed earlier).

Thank you to everyone who has posted on this & prior issue. Your insights have been noted & utilized (even if not reflected in the final thread). Further, I am overwhelmed by the generosity people have show with their time & knowledge.

Stay tuned for the results of Plan A - polarizing film. Depending on those results, I’ll reach out for help with a “fully vetted Plan B” or another round of enormous “thank you”(s).

Polarizing Film Worked!

See pic (facing full Florida sun). Display is much better than when it was working previously. Caveat: I purchased “linear” polarized film & it only works if twisted 45 degrees off the straight axis (note polarized film edges in pic). I assumed it would have to be aligned parallel with an edge. After my fourth try (full circle), I finally tried the 45 & voila!

Note: There is still distortion due to residual glue that previously held the old film in place. I tried “Goo Gone” to remove the old adhesive, but no joy. I didn’t what to try anything more aggressive (lacquer thinner) for fear of further damaging the display. The “almost vertical”
lines in the display are issues w/the underlying LCD and can’t be helped (short of locating a donor display).

Bottom Line: I would highly encourage anyone facing a “failing” LCD screen to open their speedometer to replace the polarized film. It might work & only $10 if it doesn’t. Remember: My old film just fell out.

Again, a massive “thank you” to everyone for their time, effort & expertise!