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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all. I just bought a Suzuki SV 1000 last Wednesday. Well, my story together with SV didn't start so well, as I drove 5km after the purchase and the bike wouldn't start anymore.

Next day I went bought a new battery for the bike, as the previous one was 3-4 years old according to the vendor. After the battery installation, I started to do measurements to the battery. The charging was approx 13.5 with a cold engine with 5K rpm. I also drove it warm, and it dropped down to 12,5V - 12,7V with 5K rpm. So there definitely is a problem with the charging.

Next up I did some measurements for the three yellow wires, which comes from the stator/generator. The reading from there was approximately 60V AC with cold engine. Next up I measured the R/R unit. I got repeatedly same reading from the diode test, which was according to my meter approx. 950 cold (I believe this means 0,95?)

Next up I put the R/R unit back in place, and drove the bike warm. I repeated the measurements with a warm engine, and I got approx. 50-52V AC from the stator/generator, and about 850 (0,85?) from the R/R unit.

The cables seems to be fine. The previous owner told me, that he glued the magnets to the stator about five years ago and on the same time replaced the stator/generator.

What do you think guys? According to the repair manual, the R/R unit reading should be 0,2-0,7, so I'm over that. Also the manual says that the AC from the stator/generator should be +75V AC. And now if I'm thinking it further, it would sound like there is something wrong with the stator/generator as the AC drops when the engine gets warm, so does the charging DC from the battery.
 

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Welcome to the forum. :welcome:


Have you checked the condition of the flywheel magnets?
 

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I'd still check them. The way in which people secure the magnets to the flywheel varies considerably and there have been documented failures in repair jobs. :niceone:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That's true. Would be also a good way to see immediately if the coils have burned.. Do I have to drop the oils out if I lean it towards a wall?
 

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I've read of people doing that. Personally, I'd just put a clean container under the oil drain outlet so you could reuse the oil. If one or more magnets have been damaged, you'll have to drain the oil anyway. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That's true! Thanks for the tip. Would be also nice to hear if someone has experiences that if the output from the stator is only 50-60V, has the bike still charged well enough with a working r/r.
 

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If only one or two phases read low...it would make the stator suspect, but if ALL phases are equally low...then the likelyhood that a magnet has slipped is very high. OR.....if the PO glued the magnets with incorrect orientation it would affect the output. Any way you look at it, you've got to get in and inspect the magnets.

Leaning the bike against a wall will reduce the amount of oil that comes out to a few oz's at most, and that's how I've done it several times in the past if you want to go that route. Good luck on the new bike! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Stator and magnets visually checked fine. There were some bruises in the magnet but didn't keep it too serious?
Would have been a good place to use JB weld between the magnets but gonna move it to my summer holidays :D It could be detected from the magnets that the previous owner had glued them.

I also measured coil resistance which checked out fine. I Started the engine and I got almost 14V with a cold engine, but it always drops down when engine is warm to 12,2-12.7V.

My best guess is the r/r.
 

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Your magnets are damaged which might be what's causing the low AC voltage output. The stator looks good but I'm not sure how chipped magnets will affect their performance. Have you checked to see that they're installed correctly? N-S-N-S-N-S ect so they should all be attracting their adjacent mate. If you have a bar magnet it should attract one end then repel the other then attract the next magnet in order ect....if one is not oriented properly it'll greatly reduce the output.

The RR can reduce the charging when it gets hot so at idle it might be struggling to keep everything working and over 12V 'should' be enough to ride just fine....so long as the voltage comes up to normal once you get moving. Sitting for long periods in traffic on a hot day with the fan running is going to be hard on the charging system so you might consider a slight modification: Installing a switch to shut off the headlamps is a good thing to have if you get stuck in traffic and the fan is going to be running...it frees up 110W to help charge the battery.

My mosfet RR does a similar thing....14.2V when cold but idling when fully heat-soaked it barely breaks 12V...so I shut off the headlamps and it then goes up to high 13's. Not sure if the RR has some protection circuit inside that reduces the charging when hot...perhaps to control the heat or not over-charge the battery? Before my next ride I'm installing LED H4 bulbs which will cut the low beam current from over 100W to about 36 which will help at idle and might eliminate the need to shut the lights off. We'll see.....

A headlight kill switch is GREAT to have (along with an onboard volt-meter) if the charging system should fail...you get warning of it and then with the headlamps off will extend the battery endurance hopefully enough to get you home or to a safe area. Running the lights just drains the battery much faster with the headlamps drawing more current than the rest of the bike.

If your running voltage comes up to normal at speed....it might be fine if you keep the battery topped off between rides and don't spend a lot of time idling in heavy traffic with the fan running.
 

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There are chunks missing from those magnets, the corners are broken free on some....

Either get another flywheel and do the JB thing properly, or at the very least get JB on what you have....
Wondering where the rest of the magnet bits are now....

Di d you check the stator wires to ground ? If any are grounding then one phase will be stuffed....although your voltage seemed a little too good for that...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the responses guys.

Yes, there are chunks missing from couple of the magnets. I'm quite certain they're from the time of the previous owner before he glued them back to place. I dropped the oils and didn't notice any metal junks in the oil.

I haven't checked the stator wires to the ground yet, but will do so today. Thanks for the tip.
[MENTION=17973]RecoilRob[/MENTION], I agree with you. It might be that due to the magnets,the stator it's just not putting enough AC out. Good point with the correct installation. I will be getting some Loctite Metal fix on the weekend, so I will test if the magnets are installed correctly and also glue them better just to be sure.

That is a interesting thing you've done with the headlights. I think it could also help me in my case. With the full load and idle it's not charging enough so the headlight switch might just do the trick.
Do you have any instructions on the switch installation? For example where did you put the switch and between which wires?

Appreciate it folks.
 

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Here you go: H4 Kits

These are quality kits and work well on the SV. One thing you'll notice after installing relays to run the headlamps is that they'll be noticeably brighter because you're now running full battery voltage to them vs. what the stock wiring supplies which is about 1V less. Get the kit with the shut-off switch and it's simple to wire up following their directions.

Oh....you want to use JB Weld (original formula...not Quick) as it's about the only thing that can take oil immersion along with the heat present...up to 500F.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

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Should be able to get the JB online....

I run LED lights with integrated fans, and they only pull the static voltage reading down (engine off) by about .12 of a volt, much less than standard H4 wiring........otherwise the H4 kits mentioned above would be the way to go....
 
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