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SV1000N K3 starting intermittently

265 Views 9 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  mimixtz
So my beloved SV1000 wouldn't start last weekend. What I mean by "not start" is, I put the key in, turn to on and...Nada; no lights, no display, no fuel pump, Nothing.
So I head to the battery. It's measuring 13.45v. OK, fine. Not the battery. I check for earth and it seems OK. I start checking stator/rectifier and move the bike into the driveway. I forgot to turn the key to the off position, and as I move the bike it lights up and the fuel pump comes to life. I figure whatever gremlin was in the system has buggered off and take SV for a ride. All good. I get home, start and stop it several times. All good. Try it an hour later, dead again.
This time I have a thought (my wife doesn't believe me but it's true); I'll bring the bike into the upright position and rock it from side to side with the key on. Bingo! It worked.
It's been doing this not switching on thingy intermittently all week and a shake cures it.
I don't think the K3 had a tip over sensor, but I might be wrong. I'm just a bit baffled. If any of you fine SV riders out there have any suggestions or clues, I'd be most grateful.
Keep the rubber bits down and the ugly bits up. 😜
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I would start with simple process of elimination first.
Turn ignition key ON. No matter if it comes to life or not, start tapping on componnets. If the status changes (comes to life, goes dark), this is your component.
It probably would go dark by moving it, since it does come to life by doing that?
I would start with ignition switch first. Pushing key left, right, up down,, in, out... Tapping on the switching part under mechanical part.
Then I woul continue with clutch switch, side stand switch,...
Then, if needed, I would do the same with relays, connectors, fuse box(es),...
Could the dreaded “green connector” be the culprit? Does this connector supply power to the ignition?
If you’ve not addressed the “green connector” it certainly might be worth a look. There are a number of threads addressing this issue - reach back if have difficulty locating or don’t understand.

Best of luck - intermittent problems are the worst.
By The Way - if It turns out to be a worn keyed ignition switch, a bypass solution utilizing the “red kill switch” instead is an off the shelf & easy mod. That said, it may not be technically legal for a registered road bike in The States - use your best judgment
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Agree with what others have said, either the connectors (probably the ones under the airbox ahead of the TBs) or ignition switch. Must admit I'd not be too keen to ride as I'd hate to think what would happen if it cut out and then back in again just after you'd wound on the throttle which is a natural reaction to power dropping, seem to remember Hyabusa riders being caught out by this in the early days, results were not good.

13.45v for the battery? Shurely that was after you got the engine started, 12v battery is normally about 12.7v fully charged.
And i would hope, that after 10 years, SVaus has fixed the issue.......but, the rocking side to side is likely the tip over sensor, and yes K3 had it....
And i would hope, that after 10 years, SVaus has fixed the issue.......but, the rocking side to side is likely the tip over sensor, and yes K3 had it....
:oops: Ohh, thank you, good to know that.

P.S.: I just checked on shematics, indeed it does have it. TO sensor. Thank you again ML. (y)
Don’t put yourself down.





That’s our job!
please, dont mind me......i am an idiot
You are the one who did 354.000km with sv1000 so you are one of the first to ask when someone has a problem. 😉
I guess this is the destiny you did to yourself 20 years / 354.000 km back. 😉
I guess there's nothing we can do about that. 🙂
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