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Regular (Dino) or Synthetic Oil?

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A square wheel rollin' !!
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I'd still be really worried about running that STP in a motorcycle engine tho. Hopefully it won't have any effect on the clutch plates otherwise you will start to feel them slip and end up having the replace them.
The STP is really nothing more than very thick conventional oil that has a dose of zinc in it. Zinc is good for reducing wear in metal-to-metal friction areas such as gearbox, solid cams, etc. Most modern oil has removed it because of issues with EPA/emissions.

From what I have been able to find , the STP will increase the oil's viscosity by about 10W , effectively turning my 10W-30 into 20W-40.

Moly is the "bad guy" additive that is slippery but messes with wet clutches. Not an issue as far as I have been able to find online, the STP doesn't use it.

Haven't looked at the MSDS sheets in a while, but I did my homework before using it.


I find it interesting that you didn't feel a difference in your trans when using Rotella T6 5W40. What oil were you using before you started using the Rotella T6?



...................Blake
 

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A square wheel rollin' !!
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Here's some propaganda for ya. ;)

http://www.pennzoil.com/wp-content/...0-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-SN-GF-5-en-TDS.pdf


http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/pennzoil-q-a/

Here's a Used Oil Analysis from a Jeep using the 10w30 Pennzoil Platinum. Look at the second post. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=846524

Here's a test of diesel oils : http://www.pqiamerica.com/June 2014/consolidated HDEO 2015.html

The Rotella T6 looks great, but shifted like crap in my bike. :confused:



...................Blake
 

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The STP is really nothing more than very thick conventional oil that has a dose of zinc in it. Zinc is good for reducing wear in metal-to-metal friction areas such as gearbox, solid cams, etc. Most modern oil has removed it because of issues with EPA/emissions.

From what I have been able to find , the STP will increase the oil's viscosity by about 10W , effectively turning my 10W-30 into 20W-40.

Moly is the "bad guy" additive that is slippery but messes with wet clutches. Not an issue as far as I have been able to find online, the STP doesn't use it.

Haven't looked at the MSDS sheets in a while, but I did my homework before using it.


I find it interesting that you didn't feel a difference in your trans when using Rotella T6 5W40. What oil were you using before you started using the Rotella T6?



...................Blake
In the SV1K, that is all that I have used in the bike since I bought it. Same with my track bikes. Past bikes, I have gone from Castrol moto oil to Mobil1 full syn to the Rotella T6 and never noticed any differences in shifting between the oils. I stuck with the T6 since it's cheaper to buy and works just fine in all of my vehicles - use it in all 3 bikes (2000 SV650, 2003 SV650 and 2005 SV1K), my 2004 Hemi Dodge ram with 170,000 miles and my daughter's 1991 Toyota pickup with the 3.0L V6 and over 200,000 miles on it now.
 

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Oils aint Oils Sol

Hello all,

Here's my 2 cents worth.

I was advised by a mechanic that 10W40 is the go for an SV1000 due to the oil pump being on the small side of things, that is 20W40 or 50 would be initially a little thick when the motor is cold(I live in Melbourne).

Secondly,
About type of oil, I use Penrite 4ST. I use Penrite on all my vehicles and will continue to do so. Their tech department you can ring during business hours and they will always be glad to answer any queries regarding oil choice be it for motor, trans or diffs and gearboxes and point you in the right direction, not necessarily the expensive one

Thirdly,
Mineral based oils are made from something that is extracted from the ground and adapted for use in motors or what ever it may be.

Synthetic oils are purpose made in a lab for the exact application needed. That is, they are 'Next Generation' from mineral based oils which makes them better performing on any application that they are made for.

Cheers,

Jason
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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I currently run Silkolene Comp 4 10w40 Synthetic Ester Based oil (read from bottle, what the shop put in)



I have a spare oil filter and thinking from suggestions of trying Motorex 15w50 semi synthetic, what are your thoughts guys? Or is fully synthetic the way to go...

If you run Motorex, I would recommend the Power Synt 4T 10w-50. This is what I run in lots of the performance/race engines I build.
-ms
 

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If you run Motorex, I would recommend the Power Synt 4T 10w-50. This is what I run in lots of the performance/race engines I build.
-ms
That stuff would cost me around £20 more for a 4l bottle :-S

Need something that's not gonna cost an arm and a leg
 

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HEADS UP ABOUT SYNTHETIC OIL AND CLUTCHES !!!!!

Hello to all the Mass Debators, :eek:i::spank:

The synthetic oil and clutch debate......I haven't read all posts on the 66 pages of this thread but....

Synthetic oil is fine in any motorcycle engine with a wet clutch as long as it has the specification of JASO MA.

JASO MA is an additive that allows wet clutches to work properly with synthetic oils.

So stop the debate, if the synthetic oil has 'with JASO MA' in it's specification, it is an iron clad guarantee that the clutch will not slip.

Cheers,

Jason
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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Hello to all the Mass Debators, :eek:i::spank:



The synthetic oil and clutch debate......I haven't read all posts on the 66 pages of this thread but....



Synthetic oil is fine in any motorcycle engine with a wet clutch as long as it has the specification of JASO MA.



JASO MA is an additive that allows wet clutches to work properly with synthetic oils.



So stop the debate, if the synthetic oil has 'with JASO MA' in it's specification, it is an iron clad guarantee that the clutch will not slip.



Cheers,



Jason

JASO MA I do no think is an additive package to oil. It is a specification of the oil to meet certain requirements.

I believe it is a standardized friction based test to establish the static and kinetic friction coefficient along with a ramp down time spec which is the time to go from a kinetic to static friction situation.

All of these are combined and classified into the M based classifications.

-ms
 

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JASO MA I do no think is an additive package to oil. It is a specification of the oil to meet certain requirements.

I believe it is a standardized friction based test to establish the static and kinetic friction coefficient along with a ramp down time spec which is the time to go from a kinetic to static friction situation.

All of these are combined and classified into the M based classifications.

-ms
Well you said a lot but then didn't say much at all. It doesn't change the fact that JASO MA is a suitable spec for wet clutches to use synthetic oil.
It appears that all you were doing was shit canning a technical point when the info was aimed at the use of synthetic oils with wet clutches.

Thanks Sheldon, you're absolutely correct. :wallbash:

Cheers,

Jason
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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Well you said a lot but then didn't say much at all. It doesn't change the fact that JASO MA is a suitable spec for wet clutches to use synthetic oil.
It appears that all you were doing was shit canning a technical point when the info was aimed at the use of synthetic oils with wet clutches.

Thanks Sheldon, you're absolutely correct. :wallbash:

Cheers,

Jason

My point is that you stated it is an additive package. It is not.
-ms
 

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So stop the debate, if the synthetic oil has 'with JASO MA' in it's specification, it is an iron clad guarantee that the clutch will not slip.
Some quick research shows this to be accurate.
JASO Oil Specifications - oilspecifications.org
JASO MA is a Japanese specification for oils to be used in motorcycles with wet clutches. While slipping clutches aren't the only concern with using synthetic oil, it is a big one, and this is a big help. Thanks for pointing it out!

I don't have time right now to do a lot of Web searching, but a quick check shows that Mobile 1 (the general version for cars), Mobile 1 for V-Twins, Castrol Edge, and Pennzoil Platinum, all specifically DO NOT mean the JASO MA standard according to their manufacturer's own specs.

It should be interesting to see which synthetic oils do meet this standard.
 

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I'm not sure about brands overseas but in Australia we we have an oil company called Penrite. I use their MC 4ST full synthetic and haven't had any problems.

Cheers,

Jason
Pernite is the best quality oil i have ever used.
Is not cheap but will keep its viscosity to the next oil change,no tappet noise coming from the engine at all even if the oil is old.
 

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A square wheel rollin' !!
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I'm happy to report that the oil I use, Shell Rotella T6 5w40 full synthetic, does in fact have the JASO MA rating on the bottle.
Tried that oil. Thought it was utter crap. Tranny felt clunky/notchy as hell. Oil change, trans felt fine.

Regular Rotella has always worked fine for me in previous bikes(havent tried it in the SV yet), but the T6 I'll never use in my bike again. Maybe for a car if I caught it on sale or something.

Several other guys have noted the trans feeling like crap when using T6, so It's not just me or my bike.


.............Blake
 

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A square wheel rollin' !!
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Also, according to the testing I've seen, Rotella T6 , although it is Jaso MA certified, has more PPM of Moly than Pennzoil Platinum. As far as I know, Moly is the "bad guy" that causes wet clutches to slip, as it packs up in between the clutch fibers.

Hey xtremewlr, try using the Pennzoil Platinum 10-40 or Golden SPectro oil for your next oil change and tell me if you can or can't feel a difference in your trans.

................Blake
 
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