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Regular (Dino) or Synthetic Oil?

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Tried that oil. Thought it was utter crap. Tranny felt clunky/notchy as hell. Oil change, trans felt fine.

Regular Rotella has always worked fine for me in previous bikes(havent tried it in the SV yet), but the T6 I'll never use in my bike again. Maybe for a car if I caught it on sale or something.

Several other guys have noted the trans feeling like crap when using T6, so It's not just me or my bike.


.............Blake
Also, according to the testing I've seen, Rotella T6 , although it is Jaso MA certified, has more PPM of Moly than Pennzoil Platinum. As far as I know, Moly is the "bad guy" that causes wet clutches to slip, as it packs up in between the clutch fibers.

Hey xtremewlr, try using the Pennzoil Platinum 10-40 or Golden SPectro oil for your next oil change and tell me if you can or can't feel a difference in your trans.

................Blake
Never had any issues with Rotella making the trans feel notchy or clunky in the SV nor in the Super Duke. Always worked and felt great to me.

The last oil sample I sent in from the Super Duke was for Rotella T6 and show 58ppm Moly. Granted, the engine was still breaking in so I'm not overly concerned about that and nor did the guys at Blackstone seem to be with that number. I ran T6 in the SV1000 for well over 10k miles without any issues.

I really don't see a need to try another oil when I'm quite happy with the Rotella T6 stuff.
 

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Knowledge is Horsepower
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Whelp, I'm going to try the Rotella stuff. Got some T4 15w-40 and it says it's JASO MA/MA2 rated. MA2 is supposedly safe for catalytic converters. $14 a gallon is my kinda price!

I just don't like paying $25+ a gallon for the Suzuki stuff I can only order and get at the stealers.

Haven't tried it yet but we will see!
 

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Let me answer your question with a question. What are you hoping that an alternative to regular inexpensive dino oil is going to accomplish? Have you heard anyone at all say that their bikes are wearing out prematurely from using dino oil? Have you heard any claims that these alternatives offer increased performance? Is your bike's manufacturer telling you that you *have* to use something other than dino oil?

The oil thread on this site is really long, and it has been contentious at times. Why don't you spend an hour or two and read through it all? I think that after doing so you will be able to answer your own question.
 

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I used everything from stock mineral oil in brand new bikes to Motul V300 in my ZX10R. If it says its motorcycle oil on the bottle its never been a problem. I've never had clutch slippage on any of the 15 bikes ive owned with the various combo. As mentioned before just use motorcycle engine oil in the right rating and i should be fine.

I've used Penrite in everything from twin turbo supras, to built 2zz engines to my van and now i use it in my SV and its the best stuff. I change it at around 5000-7500 (when the motivation is there) with a new filter and im always pleasantly surprised the oil always looks nearly fresh and new.

Its great stuff and i endorse it. The MC4 stuff i put in the SV is PAO Ester based which is a similar make up to a PAO Ester car engine oil which you have to run in 370z and R35 GTR. Which is very similar to the OEM Nissan Engine oil.Proper Group V Polyester based synthetic. There arent many brands that make real synthetic oil.
 

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I'll give a plug for rotella T6, have used it in the SV for years & seems just fine. I notice that at some point it becomes a little harder to shift & thats when its time for an oil change. Doesn't seem to burn much if anything between changes. Its an '03, 24k miles
 
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