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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've followed the manual instructions to remove throttle body assembly but the bugger just won't budge!!!

Seriously, I'm this close to lifting the whole bike up from the damned things... they appear to be stuck!

Is there some critical bit of info I'm missing here? A trick? Black magic? Should I cut the head off a chicken and spray blood all over the bike???

Please help!!! :bash::bash::bash::bash:
 

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One man & his dog
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You have completely undone the jubilee clips around the lower rubbers?

They come off as a complete assembly not individually...
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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5,238 Posts
I've followed the manual instructions to remove throttle body assembly but the bugger just won't budge!!!



Seriously, I'm this close to lifting the whole bike up from the damned things... they appear to be stuck!



Is there some critical bit of info I'm missing here? A trick? Black magic? Should I cut the head off a chicken and spray blood all over the bike???



Please help!!! :bash::bash::bash::bash:

You will need to warm the manifolds up. Those things can get pretty stiff from age and cold. One trick is to go ride bike first and come band pop them out. Hair dryer or heat gun will also work,

-ms
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Warming them up also crossed my mind, and I did... Well, I managed to get the rear cylinder one out... and ripped apart the front one in the process. It had gotten completely rigid like a piece of plastic and shattered in a million pieces some of which ended up in the intake. Good thing the valves happened to be closed, blew the pieces out with compressed air. Now I need to get a new replacement. Funny thing is that the front intake valves seem a bit oily with some sort of gray-white residue on one side... any ideas what that is ??

Unfortunately my woes don't end here! The crankshaft hole plug 10mm insert had seemed a bit rounded, which is why I got a replacement... But, as my luck has it, it gave way and now I can't get it out!!! ARGHHH. I tried hitting it sideways with a flathead screwdriver and a hammer, to no avail...


This bike was supposed to have had its valves checked and TBs cleaned/balanced twice in the past year... I am now 1000% certain the TBs were never removed and valves were never checked...
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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Don't worry about the residue on the valves. Likely from the fuel.

Crank end plug, take a chisel and use that. Pop it with a hammer and it will budge loose.

Don't assume the valves were not adjusted/checked and the throttle bodies synchronized. I do valves all time w/o removing the crank plug. The other question is why would you remove the throttle bodies to synch them?

To remove manifold, use a manual impact on the screws and replace the o-ring too. It will be completely mashed flat and stiff. If the front manifold is that stiff, you might just replace both with new. Used might be on their way out also. I might have used ones if you are interested

-ms
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Mr. Schmidt!! I'll try my luck with finding a local one as shipping from the US will take weeks and this means I won't be riding the bike in the mean time...

Still hitting like crazy with chisel & hammer and it's still not budging... I'll get a torch and try heating it up

I cannot see how you would rotate the engine without access to the rotor bolt, but hey, I'm just an hobbyist! I'm removing the TBs to clean them up.


Regarding fitting the Degree Wheel to the Rotor... I will need to remove the rotor bolt and use it to bolt the degree wheel to the rotor, right?? So I'll need to remove the magneto (rotor) cover, yes??
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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5,238 Posts
Thanks Mr. Schmidt!! I'll try my luck with finding a local one as shipping from the US will take weeks and this means I won't be riding the bike in the mean time...



Still hitting like crazy with chisel & hammer and it's still not budging... I'll get a torch and try heating it up



I cannot see how you would rotate the engine without access to the rotor bolt, but hey, I'm just an hobbyist! I'm removing the TBs to clean them up.





Regarding fitting the Degree Wheel to the Rotor... I will need to remove the rotor bolt and use it to bolt the degree wheel to the rotor, right?? So I'll need to remove the magneto (rotor) cover, yes??

Oh, sorry I thought you were in the US.

To rotate motor, you can put up on rear stand, put it 6th gear and use the the rear wheel to place motor at rotation needed. Very easy to do with spark plugs out.

The degree wheel will bolt on using the stock bolt with the cover removed.

-ms
 

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Bugger on that rubber, plastic aged, intake flange. I did exactly the same. Did mine when it was 15°F in the garage.

Get yourself an impact driver for the screws.
Right tool, right job.

Finding replacements is easy. EBay is your friend. There is a slight difference between the 03-04 and the 05-07 manifolds. But it's to accommodate the diameter difference in the TBs. Noting more.
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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Are the front and rear inlet manifolds different from each other ??

Yes they are different front to rear. They are also slightly different from 03/04 to the 05 and up bikes due to the different throttle body bore diameters.

-ms
 

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Ok found the hair dryer tip as my throttle bodies are not moving whatsoever. I'll try that tomorrow, need to get down to the thermostat and little radiator hoses. Seems to be where all the coolant leaks were coming from.
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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Ok found the hair dryer tip as my throttle bodies are not moving whatsoever. I'll try that tomorrow, need to get down to the thermostat and little radiator hoses. Seems to be where all the coolant leaks were coming from.
You can also just go ride it around if it is still possible. This heat soaks everything quite well and allows the to pop right off.

-ms
 
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