SV Portal Forums banner
21 - 35 of 35 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
You can also just go ride it around if it is still possible. This heat soaks everything quite well and allows the to pop right off.

-ms
Coolant is drained already. I've been slowly doing the JB Weld as I don't have everything to remove the flywheel. I'll try a hair dryer or a heat gun & see how that goes. Got the security torx for the TPS adjustment. New front brake fluid reservoir too. I feel I've neglected her too long
 

·
Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
Joined
·
2,018 Posts
Ok found the hair dryer tip as my throttle bodies are not moving whatsoever. I'll try that tomorrow, need to get down to the thermostat and little radiator hoses. Seems to be where all the coolant leaks were coming from.
Go with what schmidt314 said mate......easier than trying to heat it up on both sides, but when you go to reinstall, then used the hair dryer for sure.... and easy and easy with those flanges
so you dont split them
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Go with what schmidt314 said mate......easier than trying to heat it up on both sides, but when you go to reinstall, then used the hair dryer for sure.... and easy and easy with those flanges
so you dont split them
Boy you guys aren't kidding. Let those flanges soak in wd40 overnite & tried the hair dryer thing & nothing. I mean they are moving slightly but sure aren't coming out.
The good news is the JB Weld went fantastic & have the generator cover back on & seems to let the flywheel still spin freely.
Also the shim kit came so cams are next. Don't wanna spend all weekend working on it but I have the time now.
I may get the new hoses on that I can reach, refill with some prestone I have & after doing shimming then go ahead run it for awhile before trying to get these throttle bodies off. I mean I could try a heat gun but I don't wanna burn any wires or anything.
 

·
KNEE DRAGGER
Joined
·
5,238 Posts
Boy you guys aren't kidding. Let those flanges soak in wd40 overnite & tried the hair dryer thing & nothing. I mean they are moving slightly but sure aren't coming out.
The good news is the JB Weld went fantastic & have the generator cover back on & seems to let the flywheel still spin freely.
Also the shim kit came so cams are next. Don't wanna spend all weekend working on it but I have the time now.
I may get the new hoses on that I can reach, refill with some prestone I have & after doing shimming then go ahead run it for awhile before trying to get these throttle bodies off. I mean I could try a heat gun but I don't wanna burn any wires or anything.
Oh, I always will rock them to one side or the other to pop them out. Trying to pull them straight is tough.

On the way together I usually just use a bit of silicone spray or two stroke oil on the flanges.

Set the rear one in first, then pop the front in.

Good luck!
-ms
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Oh, I always will rock them to one side or the other to pop them out. Trying to pull them straight is tough.

On the way together I usually just use a bit of silicone spray or two stroke oil on the flanges.

Set the rear one in first, then pop the front in.

Good luck!
-ms
Ok well they were moving a little, maybe I will grab a heat gun & try it once more.
So looking thru the cam installation, it looks like line up F|T, install fronts with the line straight and then rotate once back to F|T & install rears. Not rocket science but unnerving as I've never removed a cam from anything. I did notice that my cams don't end up looking exactly like the manual photos at F|T but they're close.
 

·
KNEE DRAGGER
Joined
·
5,238 Posts
Ok well they were moving a little, maybe I will grab a heat gun & try it once more.
So looking thru the cam installation, it looks like line up F|T, install fronts with the line straight and then rotate once back to F|T & install rears. Not rocket science but unnerving as I've never removed a cam from anything. I did notice that my cams don't end up looking exactly like the manual photos at F|T but they're close.
Line up marks for front cylinder at TDC on compression stroke. You remove/install front cams at this point. Then rotate engine 360 degrees and remove install rear cams.

You want to check valve clearances on the rear at TDC on compression stroke which is what confuses people often.

Your cams should look nearly identical to manual. I have read on this forum and have actually repaired many bikes where people install both sets of cams at the same time without rotating crank or heavy engine in the case where I think the engine I did years ago, someone installed rear cams at TDC on the rear cylinder…. That did not go well.

-ms
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Line up marks for front cylinder at TDC on compression stroke. You remove/install front cams at this point. Then rotate engine 360 degrees and remove install rear cams.

You want to check valve clearances on the rear at TDC on compression stroke which is what confuses people often.

Your cams should look nearly identical to manual. I have read on this forum and have actually repaired many bikes where people install both sets of cams at the same time without rotating crank or heavy engine in the case where I think the engine I did years ago, someone installed rear cams at TDC on the rear cylinder…. That did not go well.

-ms
Ok so yes I was on the wrong stroke, next time around the cams looked like the picture. Everything was going fine then as I'm trying to get the front exhaust cam in, I realized the front cogs are a little off? The others all look straight.
Gear Household hardware Wood Tool Machine tool
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Ok, I think I figured it out. That just freaked me out like WTF?!! But I saw the springs inside so just got it as close as I could & once tightening the cam journals it straightened itself out & the marks are lining up now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Ok so found some odd sizes in there, a 2.98 & two 2.82s?? Anyway everything is in spec now except I need another 2.75 for one intake as I went 2.70 & its measuring .23mm now. So my question is should I get a 2.75 or can you use say a 1.40 and a 1.35 to get to 2.75? Or I have a 2.80 which will give me about .13mm. Id rather be at .18mm.
The exhausts are all good now, .23 to .25.
Thank a bunch for your help!!
 

·
Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
Joined
·
2,018 Posts
NO NO....you cannot stack shims...

If you want a 2.75 for certain, then get one for the job.
 

·
Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
Joined
·
2,018 Posts
Just stack the 2 smaller ones beside it and when the look they same....... no....i cant.....:ROFLMAO:..... yes, a micrometer is the go for sure....
 

·
Disturbed, very...
2003 SV1000S
Joined
·
2,018 Posts
Probably worth going 1500 and then 2000.... our idea of smooth and the metal to metal not grind idea of smooth is a little different....
It wont take more off that you will ever notice, just remove any friction
 
21 - 35 of 35 Posts
Top