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Using the PAIR valves as a crankcase evacuation system

22042 Views 82 Replies 26 Participants Last post by  Blackjackaroo
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Lots of questions came up after a post I made about plumbing the PAIR valves into the crankscase vent to evacuate and create a vacuum internal to the engine.

Why do some thing like this? Well, on a 90 degree V twin as the crank spins, the internal volume of the engine changes significantly. The engine is also pumping air under the pistons back and forth to each other, and in and out of the engine. There are also basic aerodynamic principal at work too. The crank and rods and tranny are all spinning around in the engine pushing air around with it. This is drag added to the engine which takes power.

Conventional crank I4s do not change crank case volume during an engine revolution, but they still pump the air from under the piston back and forth and cause internal losses. We used to actually make cut outs between cylinders when we using ZX11 engines long ago for the F1 sidecars. It made a difference. This is why also many manufactures are cutting out the cylinder sleeves between adjacent cylinder, they want to get rid of internal pumping losses. I included a picture of a set of OEM GENII Hayabusa cylinders to show what I am talking about.

Next thing to talk about is the PAIR valves. How do they work? Well simply put, Bernoulli's priciple of high velocity air creates a low pressure region. The PAIR valves do exactly this. As the high speed exhaust gas goes by the hole in the exhaust port it creates low pressure that gets channeled through the reed valves in the head and up to PAIR valve control solenoid. When the solenoid opens, it draws cool air form the air box and mixes it with the out going exhaust to burn unspent hydro carbons on the way out of the exhaust.

So why not use the vac created by the PAIR ports to pump out the crank cases to take advantage of the benefits described above. Here is how I have been doing it on the SV1000. Quick and easy. Pull the air box out and pull the PAIR control solenoid out, but leave the hoses that go to the front and rear cylinders. Bridge the electrical on the harness side of the bike that was plugged into the solenoid with a 1Kohm 1/2 watt resistor. I take the old plug, and use a couple of connector s and such and make a nice little plug unit to keep the FI light from coming on. Now scrounge up a T fitting such as the one shown in the image below. Now connect the upper part of the crank case vent hose you disconnected to remove the air box, to the T fitting. Now just plug in the front and rear PAIR hoses into the T. Remember to plug the port in the airbox when it goes back together. The bike will now pump on the crankcases as soon as the bike starts. As the exhaust gas speed goes up, the lower pressure seen in the crankcases.

I would pull out the reed valves under the plastic PAIR caps bolted to the valve covers, and clean them very well and make sure they are sealing well. A poorly sealing valve will not allow the bike to hold best possible vacuum.

I have set up many SV1000 and a whole bunch others. In my experience with the SV1000 oil consumption will not be an issue because the vents are well baffled, and if it were pumping oil through the vent, it would have originally been pushing it into the air box to get consumed anyway.

I do not have any direct dyno data for the SV1000, but I can assure you it will help. Lots of info out there on SV650s, Ducatis and tons of other race engines and vehicles. All of our race bikes I set up have been pumping on the crankcases for many years.

I did collect some data a couple of times to see what the pressure level was actually getting to in the crank cases, but I am not sure if I can find it any more.

You also have to remember to pull the oil fill cap before draining out our oil, or it just wont drain, because the cases are not vented due to the reeds being closed.

-MS

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Fantastic! Thanks. What is the size of that t fitting?
Can a mod please make this sticky?
Mine have Chewey's blanks.

I may give it a try for shits and giggles and see if oil consumption is a problem.
This makes sense.

I would really like to see dyno data, though, and see how much of a difference it makes over the stock crank vent.
Okay, I ran to the hardware store, got a 1/2" nylon hose barb tee and some 1/2" heater hose. Took off the blank plates, cleaned the reed valves and got it connected like Mike did.

Last ride to work this year (probably) so we will see how it works. :niceone:

I remember using a small K&N filter on a crank vent once. Oil mist all over and the oil got dirty fast so I stopped doing it.
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Okay, I ran to the hardware store, got a 1/2" nylon hose barb tee and some 1/2" heater hose. Took off the blank plates, cleaned the reed valves and got it connected like Mike did.

Last ride to work this year (probably) so we will see how it works. :niceone:

I remember using a small K&N filter on a crank vent once. Oil mist all over and the oil got dirty fast so I stopped doing it.
Don't see that happening with this mod since the system is closed and the oil that does collect should drain back into the crankcase.

Gotta check to see if I kept the pair breathers when I installed Chewy's plates. Just did it fairly recently too. Wish Mike would have posted this sooner! :rockon:
Don't see that happening with this mod since the system is closed and the oil that does collect should drain back into the crankcase.

Gotta check to see if I kept the pair breathers when I installed Chewy's plates. Just did it fairly recently too. Wish Mike would have posted this sooner! :rockon:
I have been doing this on SV1000 and 650 for ages now, just never told anybody about it really... Sorry
I still have a few more tricks up my sleeve too
-MS
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Okay, I ran to the hardware store, got a 1/2" nylon hose barb tee and some 1/2" heater hose. Took off the blank plates, cleaned the reed valves and got it connected like Mike did.

Last ride to work this year (probably) so we will see how it works. :niceone:

I remember using a small K&N filter on a crank vent once. Oil mist all over and the oil got dirty fast so I stopped doing it.
It would really surprise me to see any different oil consumption than you have right now. As I had mentioned before in another post that prompted me start this thread, my race bike ran with this modification in an 8 hour endurance race without noticeable oil consumption.

It might actually cut down on oil consumption a tiny bit because it is no longer pushing massive amount of hot oily air out and then in at every revolution and exhausting into the air box for the mist to be consumed.

The bike might idle a bit higher too once a good vac has been pulled in the cases.

-MS
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You should only use oil if it is sucking air from somewhere. Apart from the initial creation of suction there should be little flow, provided there is enough of a pressure differential that piston movements are not dispelling air. As Mike said it should actually use less. You would also want to make sure the reed valves work effectively or you could flow air every time you drop rpm.
Think I will have a go at this on the winter strip down as it's very simple to do. I could easy put a small kit together on my site with full instructions so you could do it yourself if you don't want to buy the parts. If that's ok with you Mike

Think all I will need is a T piece fuel connecter, I have the right size blanks for the air box and the resisters.

Couple of questions , I take it this mod allows the engine to rev more freely removing internal pressure is that correct? Also would you gaining a little more power bhp, I imagine it will be tiny.

The reed valve only flows one way that would be flow from the air box originally, open and closed only when the pair pump was req, now you have them connected to the crank breather the reed valves (both) would open on every downward stroke? Is that correct.

I know it seems like a stupid question but if I put this on my site I will get the question in my in box and I need to be able to explain it in layman's terms.
Think I will have a go at this on the winter strip down as it's very simple to do. I could easy put a small kit together on my site with full instructions so you could do it yourself if you don't want to buy the parts. If that's ok with you Mike

Think all I will need is a T piece fuel connecter, I have the right size blanks for the air box and the resisters.

Couple of questions , I take it this mod allows the engine to rev more freely removing internal pressure is that correct? Also would you gaining a little more power bhp, I imagine it will be tiny.

The reed valve only flows one way that would be flow from the air box originally, open and closed only when the pair pump was req, now you have them connected to the crank breather the reed valves (both) would open on every downward stroke? Is that correct.

I know it seems like a stupid question but if I put this on my site I will get the question in my in box and I need to be able to explain it in layman's terms.
Sounds a good idea Chewy..:supsmiley:
Gotta check to see if I kept the pair breathers when I installed Chewy's plates. Just did it fairly recently too. Wish Mike would have posted this sooner! :rockon:
Well, looks like I tossed the pair breathers from both the SV650 and the SV1K so I'll have to see if I can find them on ebay now. :HMM:
Couple of questions , I take it this mod allows the engine to rev more freely removing internal pressure is that correct? Also would you gaining a little more power bhp, I imagine it will be tiny.

The reed valve only flows one way that would be flow from the air box originally, open and closed only when the pair pump was req, now you have them connected to the crank breather the reed valves (both) would open on every downward stroke? Is that correct.

I know it seems like a stupid question but if I put this on my site I will get the question in my in box and I need to be able to explain it in layman's terms.
The reed valves will open when the pistons are traveling downward and reducing the crankcase volume which will push air into the exhaust ports. Then when the pistons rise the next time the reeds will close and the expanding crankcase volume is what creates the negative pressure within. I've not given much thought to exactly when the exhaust pressures will go negative in the cycle as to where the pistons will be when this happens. The crankcase will experience negative pressures just from having the reed valves controlling the breathing thought the negative exhaust pressures could very well enhance the effect. Mine does the same thing with a one-way valve on the breather hose to the airbox...and it does make a difference in how the engine runs. The Ducati fellows were able to measure a several horsepower increase when they opened up the breathers on one of their race bikes...so it wouldn't surprise me if the SV gets a couple more too.:)
Hmm doesnt the big hose from the crankcase going to the airbox create vacuum in the case w/out the pair valves or solanoid in the system?
Connected to the air box it's not a PCV system. PAIR reed valves are the PCV.

I noticed the high idle for sure though. Not much difference yet, but...
Actually....the crankcase ventilation system IS the breather hose to the airbox. Inside the case is a labyrinth type system to help prevent oil from escaping up to the box, and this is different than the TL's used. Pretty sure they had a check-valve type system and not knowing why they changed when making the SV.

The PAIR system is independent of the crankcase ventilation as per stock. It is intended to add selective additional fresh air to the exhaust to dilute it and add enough O2 for the catalysts to work properly.
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Think I will have a go at this on the winter strip down as it's very simple to do. I could easy put a small kit together on my site with full instructions so you could do it yourself if you don't want to buy the parts. If that's ok with you Mike

Think all I will need is a T piece fuel connecter, I have the right size blanks for the air box and the resisters.

Couple of questions , I take it this mod allows the engine to rev more freely removing internal pressure is that correct? Also would you gaining a little more power bhp, I imagine it will be tiny.

The reed valve only flows one way that would be flow from the air box originally, open and closed only when the pair pump was req, now you have them connected to the crank breather the reed valves (both) would open on every downward stroke? Is that correct.

I know it seems like a stupid question but if I put this on my site I will get the question in my in box and I need to be able to explain it in layman's terms.

No problems here with making a kit.

I think you need to cut the vent hose down a bit to make it fit better but I am sure you can make a detailed installation process. I can help if needed.

-ms
No problems here with making a kit.

I think you need to cut the vent hose down a bit to make it fit better but I am sure you can make a detailed installation process. I can help if needed.

-ms
Thanks:)

Not too keen on cutting down the hose as some may wish to be able to put it back as it was. I will try to locate some rubber hose and larger blanks to blank the hole as this one is bigger than the pair outlet and what I have won't fit.
I just did this to my bike... Found out the previous owner put vac caps on the front and rear pair valves, removed the PAIR solenoid (?) and left the hose routed up to the airbox. Routed it up and it revs alot more freely I think.

Did anyone notice an increase in engine noise with this? Sounds like a very loud whooshing almost once the gas is hammered down... Could be a combination of this and the tank raise/airbox snorkel. I cannot for the life of me find the wiring harness to disable the FI light; it came on for a ride, turned my bike back on and now it's not on and hasn't came back, so I'm not sure what's up, but if someone could point me towards what the harness looks like it'd be much appreciated.

Also, the idling. My bike jumped from 1400 to about 3000 (cold, 2300-2500 after running) once the mod was done. Can't get it to idle around 1500 unless the idle screw is backed out almost all the way, and that makes me a little nervous. Did you guys redo your power commander? How'd you remap it to compensate?
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