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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Figured I would break out all the posts covering the valve clearance check and dyno tune of my bike since the thread might get large and I don't want to hog up the other one. This way I'll have all the pertinent info in one spot.

I'm heading over to the tuner around 9:30 this morning and will report back when I have more information.

Valve clearances done! I had been told that they were previously done but I think not. All valves still had factory shims in them and measured off so I had to adjust them all. Thankfully I had a full Hotcams kit ready and waiting. Just over 25,500 miles on the clock right now. All measurements below are mm.

Before:
Front Intake
.114 right, .076 Left
Front Exhaust
.165 right, .178 left
Rear Intake
.076 right, .089 left
Rear Exhaust
.178 right, .178 left

After:
Front Intake
.203 right, .190 left
Front Exhaust
.254 right, .241 left
Rear Intake
.165 right, .140 left
Rear Exhaust
.254 right, .254 left
Good job!:) Now be sure to synch the TB's as you've thrown them way out now. Don't forget the TPS after synching too....then you'll be good to go.
Actually, I rode the bike today and everything seems fine. I'll have to wait until next weekend to have the time to check sync and the TPS. Now where did I put my Morgan Carbtune?

Took it to have it dyno tuned finally. Bit disappointed with the numbers as I was expecting a little bit more but the bike is running great. I had it tuned more toward gas mileage than power since this is my commuter bike so maybe that is the difference? 95.28hp/62.70tq. Peak torque was about 5100 rpm and peak hp was about 9400rpm. Torque fell off and stayed under 60 from 5800rpm up. AFR stays at around 12/13 thru the whole rpm range although it's very difficult to read as the graph is tiny.

<img src="http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m125/xtremewlr/2005-SV1000S/IMAG0873.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMAG0873.jpg"/>
Just curious: What kind of air filter are you running? Airbox mods? Exhaust system? That torque dip in the midrange and the fact that the peak was so low is not normal AFAIK. Most seem to make max torque more close to 7500, and the A/F being so flat just doesn't seem right...does it?

This spring I moved ONE intake valve from the tight limit to the middle, and the synch moved quite a bit. Had it set perfectly the night before changing the valve clearance so I'm positive it was the slight change in the intake duration that caused it to move. The TwinMax synch tool is pretty sensitive it seems.
Do you have a picture that shows the bottom of the graph?

Something looks strange for sure. Torque peak should be way higher in rpm.

-ms
Air filter is BMC, snorkel in place but modified to allow more air into the front of it (pics of this in another thread), full M4 system, Chewy's PAIR delete installed and charcoal canister removed, TRE also installed. Tuning is via PCV which includes the ignition module if I recall correctly. No changes made to the timing from the PCV to my knowledge.



I don't but I can go back to the tuner tomorrow and see if he can provide a better view of the A/F. I'm going to talk to him about the graph as wel and see what he thinks. I am thinking the same thing after going back and viewing other graphs in the dyno thread.

Is it possible that being a tooth off on any of the cams from the valve clearance changes I did yesterday would cause this? All four cams came out and I was careful putting them back in but might have screwed it up.
See if they will give you the .drf file(s) so you can look at them. The RPM scale looks to be off and the torque curve just does not look right. Big fall off that is not very characteristic for these bikes.
-ms
Yeah, that's why I was thinking I might have gotten the cams screwed up putting them back in. I'll see what the tuner will be willing/able to give me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
See if they will give you the .drf file(s) so you can look at them. The RPM scale looks to be off and the torque curve just does not look right. Big fall off that is not very characteristic for these bikes.
-ms
Just noticed that I didn't include the rpm scale in the pic. It's in 200rpm increments so the torque peak is at about 5050rpm. I'll see if I can find somewhere to scan the chart here at work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Better view of the dyno sheet. I've added some lines in red for my own notes, they can otherwise be ignored for now. Also ignore the date on the sheet, that run was done yesterday around 11am.

Talked to the dyno guy and am just waiting for a call from him when he is free and then we will work on my bike again. He is going to check/play with the ignition timing to see if there is an issue there. Otherwise, after telling him that I adjusted the valves clearances, he agreed that having a cam off by a tooth could cause the strange torque curve. I can't check the cams again until tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So, I get the bike back to the tuner today, wait around for 45 minutes for him to finish the bike he is working on already. He finally finishes and rides my bike onto the dyno. Shuts it down so he can tie the bike down and set up the various wires. Goes to start it and nothing. No power or anything. So, looks like I have been bitten by the green connector failure. Just got the bike home and it will probably be next weekend before I can take everything apart and figure out the problem. So bummed.
 

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Damn that sucks! Have you checked the battery already? I've had that exact same problem that you described ( start the bike, turn it off, try to start again...) and both times the battery had died instantly & without warning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Damn that sucks! Have you checked the battery already? I've had that exact same problem that you described ( start the bike, turn it off, try to start again...) and both times the battery had died instantly & without warning.
Haven't checked the battery but it is fairly new, maybe a year and a half and hasn't had any problems. I rode it to work this morning and then down to the tuner. Tuner rode it onto the dyno and it started every time. Only decided it wasn't going to work once we had it tied down and ever since then. I'll check the battery but I doubt that's it. All fuses were checked as well and were good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just checked the battery and it shows 12.7 volts with the ignition off so the battery is still good.
 

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When you did your valves how did you go about getting new shims? I need to do mine and am not sure if I should buy a shim kit full of sizes I will never need for this bike which also may not include enough of the ones I do need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
When you did your valves how did you go about getting new shims? I need to do mine and am not sure if I should buy a shim kit full of sizes I will never need for this bike which also may not include enough of the ones I do need.
I got the Hot Cams 9.48mm shim kit off ebay for $61 shipped. Yeah, it has many shims that I will probably never need but I wanted to have my bases covered instead of running around town trying to find shims. The kit only comes with 3 shims in each size. The one that I used the most of was the 2.65mm shims and when I needed a 4th, I went to the next closest size based on the measurements, so it opened that clearance up a little bit more. As long as that valve came back into spec, I wasn't too worried about it. The shim kit is handy as it can be used on several different bikes that use the same size shims, so you can help a buddy out or even re-sell the kit to someone that needs it. Worthy investment in my mind.
 

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I went to a local small bike repair shop and asked to rent their shim box. He charged me a $50 deposit and when i returned it on monday i got my 50 bucks back and i just gave him my old shims.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, it seems the old battery took a shit even tho it tested "good". Not load tested, just checking the voltage at the terminals. New Shorai LFX21A6-BS12 installed and the bike fired up right away. Now to pull the stator cover and see if the rotor magnets have come unglued and are causing charging problems. Once all this is sorted, then I can pull the valve covers and check the cam positions to see if I was a tooth off re-installing them during the valve clearance changes.

<img src="http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m125/xtremewlr/2005-SV1000S/Parts/IMAG0875.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMAG0875.jpg"/>
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Doesn't appear to be a problem with the stator magnets either. Guess the battery just gave up.

<img src="http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m125/xtremewlr/2005-SV1000S/Parts/IMAG0877.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMAG0877.jpg"/>
 

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Your not the first one to get stranded by a dead battery without warning. A while ago now but I think mine tested 12.4 then around 7 volts under load.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Your not the first one to get stranded by a dead battery without warning. A while ago now but I think mine tested 12.4 then around 7 volts under load.
Yeah, mine was 12.7 with the key off, turn it on and it dropped to around 4 or 5. The new Shorai should last much longer I hope.
 

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It's happened to me twice. Both times the batteries were less than 2 years old. And both times the batteries were prepped according to the manufacturer's instructions before use and kept on a smart charger during the off season.

Many years ago Motorcycle Consumer News reported on the poor quality control in the manufacturing of motorcycle batteries. It doesn't appear that things have improved much. BTW I purchased a new TrueGel battery for this season.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It's happened to me twice. Both times the batteries were less than 2 years old. And both times the batteries were prepped according to the manufacturer's instructions before use and kept on a smart charger during the off season.

Many years ago Motorcycle Consumer News reported on the poor quality control in the manufacturing of motorcycle batteries. It doesn't appear that things have improved much. BTW I purchased a new TrueGel battery for this season.
The old batter was a Cycle Gear Dura Boost OEM replacement. Made in China so it's possible the quality was just very poor on it. The Shorai batteries are much higher quality.

Been poking around on ebay, looking at piston kits. I'm seriously considering going with the higher compression TLR pistons, maybe even going over bore. There is a +2mm JE kit and I also found a piston and cylinder kit that takes the engine to 1088cc's. The seller's website also shows they do big bore and stroker kits which would be fun too. But I will most likely keep it on the conservative side and at the most do the 2mm overbore. Really depends on what my finances look like and what the work will cost to have done.

Will be checking the cams next weekend to see if I can determine whether I got them a tooth off during the reinstall after changing shims.
 

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Valve clearances

That sounds like a recipe for fun, a 1088cc SV.. :)

That's something I always worry about, putting the camshafts back in the wrong position. I noticed that tightening the caps down after having the camshafts out they turn about a tooth as they're tightened. I cleaned the teeth and added some dots of nail varnish on them so there would be no chance of mistaken realignment, two dots on the shaft gear teeth and one on the centre idler gear teeth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yup, that was it. I played hooky from work today and pulled the valve covers to check. I found that the rear cylinder exhaust cam was off a tooth. pulled the cap and rotated the cam forward (towards the front of the bike) and reinstalled the cap. All lines up now.

Double checking my work....
 
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