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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Are you going to have it on the dyno again before building it, or are you waiting until after?
Back on the dyno sometime this month, so before it gets built.

I want to dyno it again and get the map tweaked now that I corrected the retarded rear exhaust cam. I'll be riding the bike while I gather all the parts for the build and set aside the funds for it. It's my main commuter since my other vehicle is my Dodge Ram Hemi and it gets shit gas mileage! :bye2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
My bike has a few things done that yours doesn't (full M4, STVs gone, hacked up airbox), but it also has a slight midrange dip. https://scontent.fsjc1-2.fna.fbcdn....=fc647ae01f36f74fbd44bbb2e76f7ef7&oe=560D3D7D is the dyno plot, from 5k to 7.5k or so there's a minor dip. I wouldn't expect a fully concave down chart.
Your mods aren't that different from mine actually. I have the full M4, SVTs are removed (mechanism still in place for now), TRE, I left my air box stock and modified the snorkel slightly and installed a BMC filter. I have a PCV instead of the PCIII. I also have Chewy's PAIR delete kit, not that that will make any difference to the power.
 

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In that case yours shouldn't be all that different once done right. I have PAIR blocked as well. If you want to try going cheap I can investigate sending you my map, but it sounds like you want to do it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Yeah, I'm getting it mapped for the bike. Thanks for the offer tho.

Second piston has arrived! That much closer now :banana:
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Nice! I just filled up the tank and since correcting the position on that rear exhaust cam, I'm getting 36.1mpg which is up almost 3mpg. I'm still seriously considering getting a second tank to modify so it has closer to 6 gallons.
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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Nice! I just filled up the tank and since correcting the position on that rear exhaust cam, I'm getting 36.1mpg which is up almost 3mpg. I'm still seriously considering getting a second tank to modify so it has closer to 6 gallons.

Back many years ago for endurance race tanks, you would grab one of the recalled TL1000S tanks (we had many) and cut the top half off and weld it to the lower half of a GSX-R tank.
-ms
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Back many years ago for endurance race tanks, you would grab one of the recalled TL1000S tanks (we had many) and cut the top half off and weld it to the lower half of a GSX-R tank.
-ms
I'd like to keep the tank resembling the stock tank as much as possible. I don't think a TLS/R tank would work too well with the angular lines of the SV1K but that's still a great idea. I'll have to do some image searching to see if there are other possibilities. I just hope the built motor get similar gas mileage or even better when it's done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Yes it would! At 36mpg (US) and having the 4.2 gallon CA tank, my estimated range is only 151 miles right now and that's assuming I go to empty. Just adding another gallon, taking it to 5.2, increases the estimated range to 187 miles. If I can get the tank to hold 6 gallons, that will put it at 216 miles. I'd be happy with that. Now I just have to find the right tank to modify.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
One question on a second tank...is a 2003 tank OK or should I stick with 04+? I know I can use a tank from a SV650 or SV1000.

TLR motor teardown tomorrow to get the cylinders. Suppose I'll try selling off the remainder of the motor on ebay unless someone here wants any of it? Free for the price of shipping.
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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One question on a second tank...is a 2003 tank OK or should I stick with 04+? I know I can use a tank from a SV650 or SV1000.

TLR motor teardown tomorrow to get the cylinders. Suppose I'll try selling off the remainder of the motor on ebay unless someone here wants any of it? Free for the price of shipping.

An 03S tank will work on other models but you have to add a couple of speed dents around where the subframe mounts are. I can't remember exactly but I do recall using a 2x4 and a big hammer to "reshape" the tank for use on one of our 650 race bikes.

PM sent on TLR parts.
-ms
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
An 03S tank will work on other models but you have to add a couple of speed dents around where the subframe mounts are. I can't remember exactly but I do recall using a 2x4 and a big hammer to "reshape" the tank for use on one of our 650 race bikes.

PM sent on TLR parts.
-ms
Well, since I am planning on cutting a tank apart to make it bigger, adding some speed dents won't be a big deal.

TLR head assemblies and pistons spoken for by schmidt314.
 

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To increase range, you could always increase the efficiency of the motor rather than just stuffing a bigger tank on the bike. Mine will go 200 miles with no problems and a comfortable reserve averaging about 50 mpg and stuffing the airspace in the tank to full capacity. The CA tank just slows your filling down with the deeper neck. If you're patient, or drill a small vent hole at the top of the neck...you can fill to the full 4.5 or more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
To increase range, you could always increase the efficiency of the motor rather than just stuffing a bigger tank on the bike. Mine will go 200 miles with no problems and a comfortable reserve averaging about 50 mpg and stuffing the airspace in the tank to full capacity. The CA tank just slows your filling down with the deeper neck. If you're patient, or drill a small vent hole at the top of the neck...you can fill to the full 4.5 or more.
Yeah, I am considering this until I can get and modify another tank. Just need to figure out a safe way to do that without dropping metal shavings into the tank or causing it to explode while I'm doing it. Problem with the CA tank is that it has that extra vent line that needs to be plugged when you over fill it like that. Gas will leak out for a bit unless you don't. Also takes up some space inside the tank although a negligible amount.

You also get ridiculous gas mileage compared to my bike. No matter what I have done, the best I have ever seen has been 40mpg and that was before adding the SpeedoDRD so I don't know if that was correct or not. 35/36 is my usual average commuting which is the majority of my riding right now.
 

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Take heart, once you get the compression bumped up and the squish set correctly you'll likely find the engine makes a lot more power from the fuel it's given so your cruising efficiency will likely improve. Just don't over-fuel it at light throttle and they can be pretty amazingly stingy on the consumption. Dump the fuel to it at full throttle...like 12:1 or so and it'll then make good power and be safe. On the dyno it might make a bit more leaned down, but I'd really be afraid running it anything but safely rich just to try to eek a few more ponies out of it and maybe scorch expensive things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Making some progress on tearing down the donor TLR motor.

<img src="http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m125/xtremewlr/2005-SV1000S/Parts/IMAG0890.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMAG0890.jpg"/>

<img src="http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m125/xtremewlr/2005-SV1000S/Parts/IMAG0891.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMAG0891.jpg"/>

Now to start doing the rear cylinder! :niceone:
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
And I'm done!

<img src="http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m125/xtremewlr/2005-SV1000S/Parts/IMAG0893.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMAG0893.jpg"/>

<img src="http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m125/xtremewlr/2005-SV1000S/Parts/IMAG0892_1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMAG0892_1.jpg"/>

Front cylinder had a spun rod bearing which is why the motor was pulled. Pistons and heads are in good shape otherwise. The front head was missing the valve cover so the cams have some surface rust and all 4 intake valves are rusted from being out in the elements. Heads can be saved tho.
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Got the estimate for boring and plating from Millenium today - $494 to do both cylinders. I'f I didn't need a new 1-pc suit for the track, I'd have most of the motor ready to go!
 
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