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So what can/did you do to increase efficiency? I suppose altering riding style would help i.e. coasting as much as possible, using the brakes as little as possible, going slower but what fun is that?
 

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Got the estimate for boring and plating from Millenium today - $494 to do both cylinders. I'f I didn't need a new 1-pc suit for the track, I'd have most of the motor ready to go!
Just a thought: If you ask them to bore the jugs then send them back for you do do your mockup and check squish clearances they could do the decking before plating which I think would be the better way to go. Mine, of course, was milled after plating and it went OK as the stuff seems to stick pretty tenaciously, but there is always that small chance that milling the deck would chip the plating and be a pain.

I'm not completely positive that the plating can be chipped while decking...just seems like common sense, and this might be a useless caution, but I wanted to throw that out just as food for thought.:)
 

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So what can/did you do to increase efficiency? I suppose altering riding style would help i.e. coasting as much as possible, using the brakes as little as possible, going slower but what fun is that?
I'm guessing your question was for me seeing as I mentioned the efficiency...if not...sorry.:)

Biggest thing I found was mapping the light throttle settings lean enough to run at stoichiometric or thereabouts. Leaving the heavy throttle settings rich like stock really doesn't do much to the mpg's in normal street riding and if you plan to do much racing or being a hooligan...well...you aren't going to be that worried about the fuel usage.

The worst I've managed to get on mine is 46mpg...but I do cheat at how it's ridden. Not exactly riding it slowly, but always thinking about the fuel it's being given and not wasting much by diddling around in lower gears (which eats it up) and getting to speed and 5th or 6th gears and staying there as much as possible. Seeing as most of my riding roads are 2 lane 35-45 mph posted running them at 60-65 rewards the best economy and lots of fun. We have some that maintaining 40 is a real challenge so this would vary a lot depending on where you live.

On the 4 lanes at 75 cruise with blasts to 100 around trucks and whatnot...it won't quite reach 50 mpg...but it can be ridden pretty much as you want and stay well into the upper 40's. I just can't imagine getting it into the 30's on the street.....maybe at the track it would, but you wouldn't have your license around here long doing that.:)

The exhaust system is very sensitive regarding fuel economy and the silencer insert in the Yoshi TRS can makes a difference depending on how long it is. Weird..but true. Same goes for the snorkel...which it absolutely needs to do the best mileage. Shortening it (K5 short one) or removing it hurts the mileage pretty badly as you're running on the light throttle settings most of the time when just cruising about...so it needs that resonant tuning to work the best.

Since I've written all of this...there is one thing to mention: Mapping the light throttle settings lean for better mileage WILL change how it runs when you're flogging it. Holding the revs at say 7000 then cracking the throttle will have a momentary lag now where it would just jump when mapped fat like stock. If you can get the throttle open far enough to get to the rich settings it'll take off just fine up there, but that 1/4 throttle jump that it had before won't work anymore because you're giving it 14:1 rather than 12:1 mixture now...so if that would bother you, lean mapping is not for you.:)
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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Just a thought: If you ask them to bore the jugs then send them back for you do do your mockup and check squish clearances they could do the decking before plating which I think would be the better way to go. Mine, of course, was milled after plating and it went OK as the stuff seems to stick pretty tenaciously, but there is always that small chance that milling the deck would chip the plating and be a pain.



I'm not completely positive that the plating can be chipped while decking...just seems like common sense, and this might be a useless caution, but I wanted to throw that out just as food for thought.:)

I wouldn't recommend this. I often get cylinders back that have been lightly media blasted on the surface. A couple of times really bad actually, but most of the time slightly roughed up. I then measure and deck them. No issues for me ever with plating. My machinist uses a really high end surface cutter/grinder that is diamond tooled and high speed. Works killer and gasket seal is awesome.

-ms
 

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I wouldn't recommend this. I often get cylinders back that have been lightly media blasted on the surface. A couple of times really bad actually, but most of the time slightly roughed up. I then measure and deck them. No issues for me ever with plating. My machinist uses a really high end surface cutter/grinder that is diamond tooled and high speed. Works killer and gasket seal is awesome.

-ms
Oh! So my concerns about hurting the plating are actually a non-issue. Great!! I'll put that one to bed and never worry about it again.:) Thanks Mike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
Oh! So my concerns about hurting the plating are actually a non-issue. Great!! I'll put that one to bed and never worry about it again.:) Thanks Mike.
Yes, thanks! I was actually wondering the same thing as Rob. And of course I managed to drop one of the cylinders on the concrete as I was moving them just now, placing them into a storage box to keep them safe until I'm ready to send them out for boring/plating. Managed to put a small ding on the very edge where one of the external stud holes is. Hopefully isn't an issue.
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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Oh! So my concerns about hurting the plating are actually a non-issue. Great!! I'll put that one to bed and never worry about it again.:) Thanks Mike.

I have had concerns in the past, but after probably several hundreds cylinders, I have yet to see an issue.
-ms
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
I'm guessing your question was for me seeing as I mentioned the efficiency...if not...sorry.:)

Biggest thing I found was mapping the light throttle settings lean enough to run at stoichiometric or thereabouts. Leaving the heavy throttle settings rich like stock really doesn't do much to the mpg's in normal street riding and if you plan to do much racing or being a hooligan...well...you aren't going to be that worried about the fuel usage.

The worst I've managed to get on mine is 46mpg...but I do cheat at how it's ridden. Not exactly riding it slowly, but always thinking about the fuel it's being given and not wasting much by diddling around in lower gears (which eats it up) and getting to speed and 5th or 6th gears and staying there as much as possible. Seeing as most of my riding roads are 2 lane 35-45 mph posted running them at 60-65 rewards the best economy and lots of fun. We have some that maintaining 40 is a real challenge so this would vary a lot depending on where you live.

On the 4 lanes at 75 cruise with blasts to 100 around trucks and whatnot...it won't quite reach 50 mpg...but it can be ridden pretty much as you want and stay well into the upper 40's. I just can't imagine getting it into the 30's on the street.....maybe at the track it would, but you wouldn't have your license around here long doing that.:)

The exhaust system is very sensitive regarding fuel economy and the silencer insert in the Yoshi TRS can makes a difference depending on how long it is. Weird..but true. Same goes for the snorkel...which it absolutely needs to do the best mileage. Shortening it (K5 short one) or removing it hurts the mileage pretty badly as you're running on the light throttle settings most of the time when just cruising about...so it needs that resonant tuning to work the best.

Since I've written all of this...there is one thing to mention: Mapping the light throttle settings lean for better mileage WILL change how it runs when you're flogging it. Holding the revs at say 7000 then cracking the throttle will have a momentary lag now where it would just jump when mapped fat like stock. If you can get the throttle open far enough to get to the rich settings it'll take off just fine up there, but that 1/4 throttle jump that it had before won't work anymore because you're giving it 14:1 rather than 12:1 mixture now...so if that would bother you, lean mapping is not for you.:)
Seeing as how we have discussed fuel economy here, along with various other performance related aspects, I thought I might include the Fuelly link for my bike. Just click the banner to be taken to the stats page.

<a href="http://www.fuelly.com/motorcycle/suzuki/sv1000s/2005/xtremewlr/300409" target="_blank"><img src="http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/300409.png" width="500" height="63" alt="Fuelly" title="Share and compare MPG at Fuelly" border="0"/></a>​

If you have never seen Fuelly before, it's a great app for your phone (iPhone or Android) that you can use to track fuel mileage for any vehicle. You can update while you are at the pump and then compare your stats with others from your home computer and keep track of your mileage history and such.
 

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Knowledge is Horsepower
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68 fuel ups!

Cool stuff.

Nice to see someone spending some money. I used my money for 2 bike trips this year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
68 fuel ups!

Cool stuff.

Nice to see someone spending some money. I used my money for 2 bike trips this year.
Spending what I can for now! The engine build is going to be slow going for a while as I have to save my pennies again. I need a new track suit so funds are being redirected to that for now.
 

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Seeing as how we have discussed fuel economy here, along with various other performance related aspects, I thought I might include the Fuelly link for my bike. Just click the banner to be taken to the stats page.

<a href="http://www.fuelly.com/motorcycle/suzuki/sv1000s/2005/xtremewlr/300409" target="_blank"><img src="http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/300409.png" width="500" height="63" alt="Fuelly" title="Share and compare MPG at Fuelly" border="0"/></a>​

If you have never seen Fuelly before, it's a great app for your phone (iPhone or Android) that you can use to track fuel mileage for any vehicle. You can update while you are at the pump and then compare your stats with others from your home computer and keep track of your mileage history and such.
Fuelly is nice! Kind of makes me sad to see such low numbers on all the other SV's....lots of wasted fuel going out the pipes!:) http://www.fuelly.com/dashboard/

Wish I could figure out how to just put up the placard like you did....but I'm dumb. Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Fuelly is nice! Kind of makes me sad to see such low numbers on all the other SV's....lots of wasted fuel going out the pipes!:) http://www.fuelly.com/dashboard/

Wish I could figure out how to just put up the placard like you did....but I'm dumb. Any suggestions?
Go to the dashboard for your bike, scroll down the the "Log Book", at the bottom of the log book is a link for "Badges". To get it to work on the sv-portal forums, you have to use the HTML code for the badge. For some silly reason, regular forum code here is turned off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
Actually, I got it for you here:

<a href="http://www.fuelly.com/motorcycle/suzuki/sv1000s/2007/recoirob/129917" target="_blank"><img src="http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/129917.png" width="500" height="63" alt="Fuelly" title="Share and compare MPG at Fuelly" border="0"/></a>​
 

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Actually, I got it for you here:

<a href="http://www.fuelly.com/motorcycle/suzuki/sv1000s/2007/recoirob/129917" target="_blank"><img src="http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/129917.png" width="500" height="63" alt="Fuelly" title="Share and compare MPG at Fuelly" border="0"/></a>​
Awesome!!! Thank you.:)
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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I was just looking into a few other cross over/conversion parts from the 2014 and up DL1000 and was thinking about head gaskets.

I bet the new DL head gasket would work. The new DL is a 100mm bore and use an MLS type gasket. It might be worth checking into 11141-31J00. An OEM source for 100 gaskets would be handy.

-ms
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
Awesome, thanks for the tip Mike. Would be worth the $28 to get one to make sure all the holes line up right.

I'm on hold for the engine build right now while I build up some funds again to get the cylinders done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
So, in admiring a bike in the SV1K group on Facebook, I was directed to the ebay auction for the aftermarket radiator on the bike.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251748766867

Looks very well made and a claimed 40% increase in capacity. Might be the ticket to help with cooling the big bore engines like I am working towards building. Figured I would share especially since the radiator is only $90 shipped! I'll be buying one on the next few weeks I think.
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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So, in admiring a bike in the SV1K group on Facebook, I was directed to the ebay auction for the aftermarket radiator on the bike.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251748766867

Looks very well made and a claimed 40% increase in capacity. Might be the ticket to help with cooling the big bore engines like I am working towards building. Figured I would share especially since the radiator is only $90 shipped! I'll be buying one on the next few weeks I think.

I had enquired about one of those in the past. Only a 14 day warranty and they were not able to give the actual volume the radiator actually holds. It seems if they claim 40% more capacity they should know what the volume is. I asked if I purchased one and measured the volume and it didn't meet the 40% spec what happens. No response.

Heat control on the 1088 I did is reasonable with the stock radiator. It shoots up pretty fast at idle but fan takes care of it. I might put in an SV650 fan switch to get it to kick on sooner. But running temps have been good so far but we haven't run it at the track (yet).

I might just message them again about the radiator.
-ms
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
Hrm, here's another one, appears to be a different company but the same radiator:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-perfor...08-04-05-06-07-Aluminum-Radiator/151186639124

And another:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-perfor...08-04-05-06-07-Aluminum-Radiator/261442363253

All 3 come out of CA so my guess is they are all the same guy/shop.

And again except this one is only $75 but $15 in shipping:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Ra...000-S-03-08-04-05-2006-2007-2008/201354059539

And then this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Ra...sv-1000-2003-2008-07-06-05-04-03/111555553858

So it appears there is a distributor in CA, getting these radiators out of China. I don't have a problem with that, as long as the radiator works. For the price, I will still probably get one in the next few weeks. When I do, I'll compare measurements and capacities when I have the new one in hand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
Welp, build gets further delayed. Have to rebuild the front suspension on my truck so my available funds are going into that now.
 
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