It seems more clutch related as it stunk after it made the horrendous noise and if I put it in gear and keep the clutch pulled in ( with engine off ) it won’t budge at all. I think cover off and inspect seems like the best action, albeit annoying on a bike I’ve had 3 weeks 😞
What did you do to your SV today?
I participate regularly in various car forums (mostly VW) and one thread on there really caught my eye: the "what did you do to your ### today?" thread.
Please post here if you rode it to work, took the dust cover off it & washed it, took the engine out, pumped up the tyres, turned on the light & looked at it... etc etc, you get the idea.
So, irrespective what you did to your SV today, post it here. If they're serious mods, please feel free to post them in the "Tweaking, Tuning..." section, but give us a little taster here first!
Hope this works, if so, might it get sticky? The thread, Mr. Rose, the thread! :lol:
Please post here if you rode it to work, took the dust cover off it & washed it, took the engine out, pumped up the tyres, turned on the light & looked at it... etc etc, you get the idea.
So, irrespective what you did to your SV today, post it here. If they're serious mods, please feel free to post them in the "Tweaking, Tuning..." section, but give us a little taster here first!
Hope this works, if so, might it get sticky? The thread, Mr. Rose, the thread! :lol:
16081 - 16100 of 16121 Posts
I just cross referenced your photo with some of mine in this thread, it seems like where looking at the short end of the basket “finger” where the last plate fits on it of phase with the others.
It may be worth turning the engine over and having a look all the way around.
In any case it’s a fairly quick and simple job to drop the case off so well worth checking out what’s happening in there. I’d be suspecting someone has had their sticky finger in there no long ago.
Where about in the UK are you out of interest?
It may be worth turning the engine over and having a look all the way around.
In any case it’s a fairly quick and simple job to drop the case off so well worth checking out what’s happening in there. I’d be suspecting someone has had their sticky finger in there no long ago.
Where about in the UK are you out of interest?
West midlands not too far from Coventry.I just cross referenced your photo with some of mine in this thread, it seems like where looking at the short end of the basket “finger” where the last plate fits on it of phase with the others.
It may be worth turning the engine over and having a look all the way around.
In any case it’s a fairly quick and simple job to drop the case off so well worth checking out what’s happening in there. I’d be suspecting someone has had their sticky finger in there no long ago.
Where about in the UK are you out of interest?
Yeah, and make sure that crank nut is torqued up and the retainer washer is in one piece too.
Turns out one of the clutch spring bolts came out most of the way, bent over and starting wearing a groove in the clutch cover. I’d say a lucky escape!!
I know I'm going to sound like a retrospective smart arse but I did have my suspicions about the. Good to hear it's all sorted without major bills, presumably the noise alerted you to an issue before any serious damage.Turns out one of the clutch spring bolts came out most of the way, bent over and starting wearing a groove in the clutch cover. I’d say a lucky escape!!
I'd be giving the oil system a good flush in case any metalic flakes were created but other than that it does sound like you dodged a bullet.
It's not too late to pop out and buy a lottery ticket BTW!
Yeah, It’s made a bit of a mess to the inside of the cover, but nothing too major. The bolt on the other hand is rather banana shaped.
![Grey Grass Black-and-white Road surface Wood]()
the only thing we could think of is someone forgot to torque that single bolt up or even do it up in the first place.
All bolts torqued up to the manuals spec so hopefully won’t happen again.
the only thing we could think of is someone forgot to torque that single bolt up or even do it up in the first place.
All bolts torqued up to the manuals spec so hopefully won’t happen again.
Aye, torque not high on those bolts, bit of threadlock is a good bit of insurance, although resistance of the springs should keep them safe.
Good stress test today, damn close to 100° & all seems well with the new hoses, coolant & thermostat. Was stuck in traffic & did a good 65 miles. Didn't see the temp go above 222° & the fan was kicking on fine.
Have been finalising a homemade induction extension a la factory pro ie one longer one to get some midrange resonance - most useful part for the roadmapGood stress test today, damn close to 100° & all seems well with the new hoses, coolant & thermostat. Was stuck in traffic & did a good 65 miles. Didn't see the temp go above 222° & the fan was kicking on fine.
Used hand held 3D printer
3 parts
1 section that fits over outside and fills taper on stock rubber one (in air box) - it’s shape and fit secures it pretty well
Other end inserts into spare rubber induction stack
2 stock rubber induction stack using standard clamp
3 slip on 3D print section similar to lower looking for better transition of air from side and below
Trial run soon - watch this space
Have been finalising a homemade induction extension a la factory pro ie one longer one to get some midrange resonance - most useful part for the roadmap
Used hand held 3D printer
3 parts
1 section that fits over outside and fills taper on stock rubber one (in air box) - it’s shape and fit secures it pretty well
Other end inserts into spare rubber induction stack
2 stock rubber induction stack using standard clamp
3 slip on 3D print section similar to lower looking for better transition of air from side and below
Trial run soon - watch this space
Without pics, it didn't happen
I was just thinking about her, gonna take her out this sunday because spiders creeping in with their webbs
So, it has happened.... cool..... bit of work cleaning that up..... love to see the end product, and the results on the bike....
Yep need to build up the upper flat surface and shape and smooth out to make reasonable bellmouthSo, it has happened.... cool..... bit of work cleaning that up..... love to see the end product, and the results on the bike....
I figure that as the entry is much closer to filter flow from side and underneath will be more important
Length is pure guess, basically longest I dared but giving room underneath filter
Results will be butt dyno only
If I can notice with this will make the effort to be smoother finish on inside bore in particular
Well, I rode it for 250 km. That's the best I could do for my SV today.
Ok, and for me too. 😁😉
Ok, and for me too. 😁😉
Well, not just for today but here goes.
Over the past 3 months I've;
Repaired the locating button on the inside of the throttle switchblock
Replaced the generator cover inspection plug
Inline TRE mod using 6.8k resistor
PAIR valve removal using 3.3k resistor
Crankcase vent mod through PAIR reed valves
Generator rotor magnet repositioning and set in place with J-B Weld
Modified the clutch basket to remove 'chudder' (the mod was my own, done a little differently to others and yes, it works great!)
Fitted a new kit to the clutch slave cylinder as it was leaking
Fitted new mirrors as previous owner smashed the glass in one and simply put in a piece of flat mirrored glass to 'fix' it so I had one convex mirror and one flat mirror.
Tidied up previous owners bloody dodgy wiring.
To all current and previous SV1K owners I've got to say WHAT THE F###!!! I haven't had the opportunity to ride this bike for more than 5 minutes yet due to current injury but I really hope it's worth it!! I have only owned Bandits the last 26 years or so, one of them I had for 20 years and had over 150,000 on the clock, I never had to put a spanner to it! I only had to check the valves (which were never out) change fluids, filters and fill it with fuel. All the Bandits were the same, unbreakable, well thought out, expertly engineered super reliable bulletproof grunt machines that are their enviable legacy.
This SV1000N is a beautiful bike, I almost bought one way back in 2003 when they first came out and I test rode one, loved it but just couldn't part with the Bandit. I guess I'm glad I waited 20 years so others have had a chance to find out all of the design flaws and performance mods to make them a better machine overall. The one I have still needs fork seals and a new clutch push rod seal before it's rideable and almost finished, but I really appreciate all who have gone before me.
Cheers, hope to see you on the road.
Over the past 3 months I've;
Repaired the locating button on the inside of the throttle switchblock
Replaced the generator cover inspection plug
Inline TRE mod using 6.8k resistor
PAIR valve removal using 3.3k resistor
Crankcase vent mod through PAIR reed valves
Generator rotor magnet repositioning and set in place with J-B Weld
Modified the clutch basket to remove 'chudder' (the mod was my own, done a little differently to others and yes, it works great!)
Fitted a new kit to the clutch slave cylinder as it was leaking
Fitted new mirrors as previous owner smashed the glass in one and simply put in a piece of flat mirrored glass to 'fix' it so I had one convex mirror and one flat mirror.
Tidied up previous owners bloody dodgy wiring.
To all current and previous SV1K owners I've got to say WHAT THE F###!!! I haven't had the opportunity to ride this bike for more than 5 minutes yet due to current injury but I really hope it's worth it!! I have only owned Bandits the last 26 years or so, one of them I had for 20 years and had over 150,000 on the clock, I never had to put a spanner to it! I only had to check the valves (which were never out) change fluids, filters and fill it with fuel. All the Bandits were the same, unbreakable, well thought out, expertly engineered super reliable bulletproof grunt machines that are their enviable legacy.
This SV1000N is a beautiful bike, I almost bought one way back in 2003 when they first came out and I test rode one, loved it but just couldn't part with the Bandit. I guess I'm glad I waited 20 years so others have had a chance to find out all of the design flaws and performance mods to make them a better machine overall. The one I have still needs fork seals and a new clutch push rod seal before it's rideable and almost finished, but I really appreciate all who have gone before me.
Cheers, hope to see you on the road.
Just in case I have potentially offended anyone, I would like to state that maybe some of my comments were a little tongue-in-cheek.....except for the comments about the Bandit. Buy one. Seriously, they're bloody bulletproof.
Mate, I have read threads regarding leaving the PAIR reed valves on and using the plumbing associated with them to create a negative pressure environment in the crankcase. I removed the PAIR valve, cut the wires on the valve side and put a 3.3k 1/2w resistor across them. I've read posts of people putting anywhere from 1k to 15k resistors in without any issues. I have run mine 3 times since and had no errors come up. After creating a lower pressure state inside the crankcase it idles slightly higher, I have read reports that it improves lower and midrange response so I followed the recommended steps, cleaned up the PAIR valves, refitted them and joined them to the crankcase vent hose with a t piece and reducer, ditched the valve and voila!It shouldn't be too difficult to do, only needs a 10K resistor if I've understood correctly but I do hate bad wiring so want to do it properly. But, I don't want to cut the wiring on the loom side of the plug/socket as I don't like to make a jobidentify the connector and get a new one just to fit resitor into. Again this may take time.
I also did the most recently recommended TRE mod by fitting a 6.8k resistor inline to the pink gear position indicator loom. All in all, no change to how it starts, idles slightly higher after the reduction in crankcase pressure, just had to block off the airbox where the various hoses used to go.
Yep need to build up the upper flat surface and shape and smooth out to make reasonable bellmouth
I figure that as the entry is much closer to filter flow from side and underneath will be more important
Length is pure guess, basically longest I dared but giving room underneath filter
Results will be butt dyno only
If I can notice with this will make the effort to be smoother finish on inside bore in particular
16081 - 16100 of 16121 Posts
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