What did you do to your SV today?

1245458 Views 16120 Replies 965 Participants Last post by Madmax11, 2 d ago

paddy2bsure

Discussion Starter · Mar 7, 2006

I participate regularly in various car forums (mostly VW) and one thread on there really caught my eye: the "what did you do to your ### today?" thread.

Please post here if you rode it to work, took the dust cover off it & washed it, took the engine out, pumped up the tyres, turned on the light & looked at it... etc etc, you get the idea.

So, irrespective what you did to your SV today, post it here. If they're serious mods, please feel free to post them in the "Tweaking, Tuning..." section, but give us a little taster here first!

Hope this works, if so, might it get sticky? The thread, Mr. Rose, the thread! :lol:

16101 - 16120 of 16121 Posts

SV_Steve

· #16,101 · 23 d ago

2

Automotive tire Gas Serveware Artifact Nickel

Automotive tire Material property Nickel Auto part Gas

so this is state for proof of concept butt dyno testing
Both should be similar in terms of resonance
Top option likely to be more help ( less punitive ?) at high revs and full / wider throttle

the other thought I had is whether the volume of extension counts as reduction in air box volume for air box resonance ( and will my butt notice?)

next episode - real world meets theory

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SV_Steve

· #16,102 · 21 d ago

SV_Steve said:
View attachment 118529
View attachment 118528

so this is state for proof of concept butt dyno testing
Both should be similar in terms of resonance
Top option likely to be more help ( less punitive ?) at high revs and full / wider throttle

the other thought I had is whether the volume of extension counts as reduction in air box volume for air box resonance ( and will my butt notice?)

next episode - real world meets theory

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Gas Auto part

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Gas Auto part

mounted in bike airbox
Comments below apply to this config
First - have dna air filter - background
This is more acoustically open than stock
Second- this is 03 model but with later shorter snorkel
Third - no other mods, using 98 octane petrol

For those familiar I went Heathcote Rd ( southern Sydney ) then M1 to wollongong and reverse

impressions
I tried to stay in 6th gear where possible as this puts revs in expected target benefit range - unless noted all comments are about 6th gear
Stock gearing

Eg
Climb from woronora river to m1
70 k speed limit on steepest section dropped back to 55 and then opened throttle and was up to 70 easy quick and smooth

had to stop at lights meeting highway
From there it is 70 / 60 /100 and flat
At the 60/100 transition opened full throttle roll on and it stronger / quicker

on return up Mt Ousley did 60 to 80 roll on on steeper section - picked up strongly and smoothly

went down to 2000 rpm and full throttle rollon
Didn’t like first bit and was surging around transmission slack but accelerated and smoothed out

so looks like theres more power in 2-4000 rpm range
Didn’t notice any high rev penalty

would expect in twistier sections you could getaway with less gear changes especially if you ride smoother and flowing style

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Missing Link

· #16,103 · 19 d ago

Sounds good.....you are clearly enjoying the process...

A question....the coarse, i assume proof of concept, finish n the inside, might that cause a little unwanted turbulence?
If there was anywhere that might affect upper revs power, meaning, it might unlock a little, that might be it ??

SV_Steve

· #16,104 · 17 d ago

Missing Link said:
Sounds good.....you are clearly enjoying the process...

A question....the coarse, i assume proof of concept, finish n the inside, might that cause a little unwanted turbulence?
If there was anywhere that might affect upper revs power, meaning, it might unlock a little, that might be it ??

Hi
From what I understand the surface finish will affect the resonance and some drag at high flows

The resonance occurs at speed of sound - and will dampen it
The net mass flow will also experience more drag at high flow when boundary layer is disrupted
I’ve seen custom induction stacks with golf ball like dimples so assuming that’s functional then both shape and surface finish are relevant
My extension is mostly the stock rubber one on a mount / adapter - extra drag b/c of more length too
Factory pro dyno on sv650 with their symmetric short stacks shows gains over whole range but more at high revs
But bigger proportional mid range gain with asymmetric stacks and less increase higher range
So to maximise effects want best shape including mouth- at high flow more air from side - best surface finish and true straight / symmetry in bore
For given length will get best result at resonance and max flow with above
Then to complicate a tapered mouth can give some lesser resonance over wider range

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Blackjackaroo

· #16,105 · 17 d ago

SV_Steve said:
Hi
From what I understand the surface finish will affect the resonance and some drag at high flows

The resonance occurs at speed of sound - and will dampen it
The net mass flow will also experience more drag at high flow when boundary layer is disrupted
I’ve seen custom induction stacks with golf ball like dimples so assuming that’s functional then both shape and surface finish are relevant
My extension is mostly the stock rubber one on a mount / adapter - extra drag b/c of more length too
Factory pro dyno on sv650 with their symmetric short stacks shows gains over whole range but more at high revs
But bigger proportional mid range gain with asymmetric stacks and less increase higher range
So to maximise effects want best shape including mouth- at high flow more air from side - best surface finish and true straight / symmetry in bore
For given length will get best result at resonance and max flow with above
Then to complicate a tapered mouth can give some lesser resonance over wider range

Hi Steve, I'm new to SV1k after 26yrs on multiple Bandits and getting up to speed on best modifications, repairs and fixing factory failures (clutch basket, rotor magnet issues etc) and I wish to understand best practice as far as these stacks are concerned. Just observing the current information am I correct in assuming that extending the stacks, giving the internal surface of the extension an uneven texture and retaining the bell mouth at the top is of benefit to the overall performance of the bike? Is there information on what length the extensions need to be or the overall height from the inside base of the airbox? I do comprehend the theoretical information but I don't have finances to invest in dyno tuning whilst refining any modifications that I make, so any information you can provide would be very much appreciated, I am doing all of the modifications myself, I haven't ridden my bike any more than half an hour overall at this point so butt dyno won't provide any useful info, I just don't have the experience with these bikes.

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SV_Steve

· #16,106 · 17 d ago

Blackjackaroo said:
Hi Steve, I'm new to SV1k after 26yrs on multiple Bandits and getting up to speed on best modifications, repairs and fixing factory failures (clutch basket, rotor magnet issues etc) and I wish to understand best practice as far as these stacks are concerned. Just observing the current information am I correct in assuming that extending the stacks, giving the internal surface of the extension an uneven texture and retaining the bell mouth at the top is of benefit to the overall performance of the bike? Is there information on what length the extensions need to be or the overall height from the inside base of the airbox? I do comprehend the theoretical information but I don't have finances to invest in dyno tuning whilst refining any modifications that I make, so any information you can provide would be very much appreciated, I am doing all of the modifications myself, I haven't ridden my bike any more than half an hour overall at this point so butt dyno won't provide any useful info, I just don't have the experience with these bikes.
[/QUOT

Hi

I’ve kept mine stock apart from DNA filter which Was influenced by a dyno chart from an article I’ll try to find
And an 05 snorkel which is shorter. I’ve posted on this elsewhere on the site

My interest is around useable power and reversible change

This article

http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prods59,SV650,03-19.html

piqued my interest
The parallels are obvious but no 1000 version
The benefit on the 650 for street and racing would be higher

I don’t intend to invest in improving the current version at the moment
One downside is some vibration because of differing output in cylinders - proof of the effect
So am looking at how to do a longer rear intake and lessening gap cyl to cyl
This requires air filter to be higher
So that’s my focus
But I’ll be riding as first priority and doing the extra dev second
There’s others on site who can advise on other aspects
My other curiosity is how much a suspension guy can squeeze out of stock or near stock stuff for modest $$

Blackjackaroo

· #16,107 · 12 d ago

D.T. said:
Put in a 5k pot this morning across the IAT sensor. Got a -c21 code.

Had a bad connection at the plug so that was redone.

Seems like a good idea for altering fueling right? It probably would work. Just wire in a 5k pot to tweak the A/F ratio a bit. I have seen these thing for Vstroms but they cost $170 bucks and are fixed. Looks like they add 10k to the IAT circuit. This RICHENS the fueling. 10k would be too much for the Suzuki.

BoosterPlug Suzuki DL 1000 V-Strom (2014-2016) (L4 to L6 models)

Put in a 330 ohm resistor across the IAT connector, 1/2 watt I think. Started it up and watched A/F ratio. Went up considerably. It's now hovering around the 13.5 mark after it got warmed up.

ADD: I just got the 5k pot working. Low end is 166 ohms, high end is 4800 ohms. When I moved the pot through the range the A/F ratio went up and down a whole point at idle and in neutral. From 12.3 all the way up to 13.4. It works.

Too cold to ride it too see how the temps affect everything.

Hey mate, I know this is a 4 year old post but I am new to my SV1K and wanting to get up to speed with all of the modifications that are beneficial for the operation of my bike. I was wondering how you wired in the pot, did you replace the IAT sensor with a pot or did you wire it up in parallel? I'm assuming that you didn't wire it up in series as that would make the fuelling horribly rich, and I thought that replacing the IAT sensor with a resistance of a fixed value would not allow the fuelling to alter, allowing for colder or warmer intake temperatures, but adding a variable resistance in parallel with the IAT sensor would allow you to adjust the set resistance across the pot and still allow the IAT to provide variable values to the ECM during operation, by adding another source of resistance control in conjunction with the IAT you can lean out the fuel metering to achieve the 13's you were looking for, correct?

estevns

· #16,108 · 12 d ago

Went to the Anderstorp raceway (formerly known as Scandinavian raceway) this weekend on the SV - my friend on his FZ6S. What a blast!

Tire Wheel Fuel tank Vehicle Automotive lighting

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GDCobra

· #16,109 · 11 d ago

Blackjackaroo said:
Hey mate, I know this is a 4 year old post but I am new to my SV1K and wanting to get up to speed with all of the modifications that are beneficial for the operation of my bike. I was wondering how you wired in the pot, did you replace the IAT sensor with a pot or did you wire it up in parallel? I'm assuming that you didn't wire it up in series as that would make the fuelling horribly rich, and I thought that replacing the IAT sensor with a resistance of a fixed value would not allow the fuelling to alter, allowing for colder or warmer intake temperatures, but adding a variable resistance in parallel with the IAT sensor would allow you to adjust the set resistance across the pot and still allow the IAT to provide variable values to the ECM during operation, by adding another source of resistance control in conjunction with the IAT you can lean out the fuel metering to achieve the 13's you were looking for, correct?

I can't remember off hand which way around the IAT sensors work (whether the resistance goes up or down with temperature) but if you put a resistor in series resistance will increase in parallel it will decrease.
Personally I don't like the idea of tricking out sensors to make the system give results which were not intended, it's a really blunt weapon and while it may give an improvement in some areas is also likely to do something undesirable elsewhere. On some vehicles the IAT is not very well positioned and picks up heatsoak from around the engine, I can see the sense of repositioning the sensor to better reflect the temperature of the air which is going into the engine. If this is cooler than the air around the engine it will add a bit more fuel.
Just my opinion obviously!

Blackjackaroo

· #16,110 · 11 d ago

GDCobra said:
I can't remember off hand which way around the IAT sensors work (whether the resistance goes up or down with temperature) but if you put a resistor in series resistance will increase in parallel it will decrease.
Personally I don't like the idea of tricking out sensors to make the system give results which were not intended, it's a really blunt weapon and while it may give an improvement in some areas is also likely to do something undesirable elsewhere. On some vehicles the IAT is not very well positioned and picks up heatsoak from around the engine, I can see the sense of repositioning the sensor to better reflect the temperature of the air which is going into the engine. If this is cooler than the air around the engine it will add a bit more fuel.
Just my opinion obviously!

I agree for the most part. As temperature increases resistance reduces, my IAT sensor is reading perfectly at 20° C and 40°C so I am assuming that it's accurate over it's full range. I have measured my fuel/ air ratio and it varies between 11 and 9! Way out, and looking at the easiest way to adjust without spending big bucks. I haven't ridden it a lot, but from the short rides I have done it seems to be using a lot of fuel. Any ideas on how to improve the F/A ratio other ways that would involve low cost?

Reactions: 1

GDCobra

· #16,111 · 10 d ago

Blackjackaroo said:
I agree for the most part. As temperature increases resistance reduces, my IAT sensor is reading perfectly at 20° C and 40°C so I am assuming that it's accurate over it's full range. I have measured my fuel/ air ratio and it varies between 11 and 9! Way out, and looking at the easiest way to adjust without spending big bucks. I haven't ridden it a lot, but from the short rides I have done it seems to be using a lot of fuel. Any ideas on how to improve the F/A ratio other ways that would involve low cost?

I can't believe that is working correctly, surely there must be something wrong? I'd start by looking for the problem rather than trying to trick something else out to 'compensate'.
My rule is adding complexity is more likely to take you further away from a solution than closer to one.
Although the IAT may be giving accurate readings it may be placed in an area where it's measuring air at a higher temperature than what is going into the engine, or it may be a different sensor, what about coolant temperature? If the ECU thinks coolant is cooler than it is it will richen up the mixture. Failing that it coud be the injectors flowing more fuel than the system is spec'd for, either because they are worn or they are the wrong type or because the fuel pressure is wrong. I must admit I've often wondered what the lambda sensor does on these bikes, normally this is used to control the mixture at least under certain conditions.
On a Triumph I had a good few years ago there was an adaptation procedure you could run from which the ECU could learn the flow of the injectors and dial its fuelling in to compensate for flow rates. I wonder if there is something similar for the Suzuki?
This involved starting the engine with a speciffic sequence (to 'turn on' this mode) then letting the engine idle for a time (about 10-15 min's IIRC) so the system could monitor the exhauses via the O2 sensor.

Could you use the SZ Viewer tool discussed in a recent thread to get readings from the sensors so at least you know what the ECU 'thinks' is happening. I had a play with this earlier in the year but unfortunately my injury has kept me away from that I'm hoping to get back into it in the near future. I was getting some dodgy readings at the time althogh the other contributor seemed to be getting good data so problem was presumably due to my kit, I have an alternate module to try now.

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Missing Link

· #16,112 · 10 d ago

Blackjackaroo said:
I agree for the most part.

GDCobra said:
I can't believe that is working correctly......

Hey guys... can we move the developing convo to a seperate thread ? This one is for short bursts of yay i did it....

It sounds like it is going to require some thought

evssv

· #16,113 · 9 d ago

Today i found out y my sv went up in a cloud of smkoe from the underseat area last wk end 🙄.....ffs😫

youtube.com

yee..dat b me problum🙄

youtube.com

So have ordered one of these for her

www.ebay.co.uk

Suzuki Regulator Rectifier Mosfet 3 Phase "Loom By Pass" Upgrade from OEM | eBay

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Missing Link

· #16,114 · 9 d ago

Hope you got it before it ended....maybe you go tthe last one.
The standard one can be re-jigged o do the same thng, but this is a neat way of getting the job done....good one....

Reactions: 1

evssv

· #16,115 · 9 d ago

Missing Link said:
Hope you got it before it ended....maybe you go tthe last one.
The standard one can be re-jigged o do the same thng, but this is a neat way of getting the job done....good one....

sure did get it

...had to buy me a new crimp tool to redo the chunky new plug..

.gonna solder aswell....

Blackjackaroo

· #16,116 · 9 d ago

2

Missing Link said:
Hope you got it before it ended....maybe you go tthe last one.
The standard one can be re-jigged o do the same thng, but this is a neat way of getting the job done....good one....

Here's the same one available through ebay Australia, albeit with a different plug

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crashm16

· #16,117 · 9 d ago

I bought one today and put insurance on it so I can ride it home tomorrow.

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mimixtz

· #16,118 · 7 d ago

Replaced rear wheel bearings and seals.
Ride it for 100km.

Poincident

· #16,119 · 3 d ago

It looked so sad as I haven't ridden her since the fall.:weep: She just doesn't understand that I don't want to expose her to road salt. I'll have to spend some quality time with her this weekend to get her sorted out.

mimixtz

· #16,120 · 3 d ago

Poincident said:
It looked so sad as I haven't ridden her since the fall.:weep: She just doesn't understand that I don't want to expose her to road salt. I'll have to spend some quality time with her this weekend to get her sorted out.

That's ridiculous.

But I do understand you, I do care about this bike a lot too, I just don't dare to write something like that down.

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