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KNEE DRAGGER
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Discussion Starter · #561 ·
I followed the link to the rods and bearings which had been damaged by the sump plug falling out and losing oil -Ouch!. Now I know wiring the drain plug on was not overkill, given the SVs vibes.

Thanks for all the info. Dr Schmidt. Most interesting.

Yet, with a fresh crush washer and proper torque, they should never fall out anyway.

-ms
 

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Magneto Failure

At nearly 37,000 on my full fairing '07 SV1000s, it was time for a major service. I also elected to rebuild both the front and rear suspension along with replacing both sprockets. The bike has suffered from an undiagnosed, high frequency, vibration with the fairly recent arrival of "Not Charging" symptom I had suspicions of magneto failure as well so I told the shop to check it. My fears were realized and I expected to toss a small fortune into my SV but ....
... The shop replaced the rectifyer to resolve the charging behavior and then called to say it was ready. Within a few hours the shop had discovered that it had not opened the case as I had instructed and on review of the repair order called me back to apologize and to take responsibility (pay) for the magneto assembly completely - a $1500.00 value!!!
They also "comped" both levers, front brake reservoir, both grips, coolant and rebuilding both front brake calipers to boot! This is now a nearly new feeling bike and I couldn't be more happy with the result and the calibre of customer service from PCP Motorsports, Sacramento. :bigclap:
 

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At nearly 37,000 on my full fairing '07 SV1000s, it was time for a major service. I also elected to rebuild both the front and rear suspension along with replacing both sprockets. The bike has suffered from an undiagnosed, high frequency, vibration with the fairly recent arrival of "Not Charging" symptom I had suspicions of magneto failure as well so I told the shop to check it. My fears were realized and I expected to toss a small fortune into my SV but ....
... The shop replaced the rectifyer to resolve the charging behavior and then called to say it was ready. Within a few hours the shop had discovered that it had not opened the case as I had instructed and on review of the repair order called me back to apologize and to take responsibility (pay) for the magneto assembly completely - a $1500.00 value!!!
They also "comped" both levers, front brake reservoir, both grips, coolant and rebuilding both front brake calipers to boot! This is now a nearly new feeling bike and I couldn't be more happy with the result and the calibre of customer service from PCP Motorsports, Sacramento. :bigclap:
Damn dude, you made out like a bandit! Great to hear that the shop went above and WAY beyond taking care of you and your bike! :bigclap:
 

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I couldn't be more happy with the result and the calibre of customer service from PCP Motorsports, Sacramento. :bigclap:
I'm glad to hear this, and I'm glad to hear that this shop now has seen at least one instance of the magnets having slipped in the alternator, because they are my local dealer also.

I'm also happy to hear that their repair department is more reliable than their sales department.
 

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I just re-assembled my "Rick's" stator and new flywheel after my disastrous flywheel magnet disintegration.

I cleaned the RH oil screen and washed out the engine with the parts washer.

I performed multiple oil changes and cleaned the screen again. I did find some swarf in the oil. All 3 colors too, aluminum, steel, copper.

The last oil change came out quite clean. Did not find anything in the filters.

I'm hoping for the best. But I do realize that the magnet grit probably did some damage to the engine.
 

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I just re-assembled my "Rick's" stator and new flywheel after my disastrous flywheel magnet disintegration.

I cleaned the RH oil screen and washed out the engine with the parts washer.

I performed multiple oil changes and cleaned the screen again. I did find some swarf in the oil. All 3 colors too, aluminum, steel, copper.

The last oil change came out quite clean. Did not find anything in the filters.

I'm hoping for the best. But I do realize that the magnet grit probably did some damage to the engine.
Sounds like you've done all the due diligence that you can. Just ride it and hope for the best now. I think there are a few that have done similar and their engines are still running strong.
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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Discussion Starter · #568 ·
Here is some more information. I have been periodically inspecting my magnets and adhesive to see when the next failure is going to happen.

First failure at about 38k miles.
Installed used rotor with known history with really low miles.
Second rotor failed with about 38k miles total.
Brand new factory rotor installed along with Compufire Series RR unit that has a huge impact on thermal load and brought the engine temperatures way done on that side of the engine.
Most recent inspection of the current rotor was made at 105k miles about 44k miles on this rotor.

The epoxy, has turned darker, but is not the bright orange color I have seen prior to failure.
The epoxy is is not brittle, and has good feel when poked with a pick.

The single data point conclusion is that controlling the heat at the stator with the series RR unit, is extending life of the epoxy. The bike has been used the exact same way it has been used in the past.

I also tossed on an old rotor on my hot plate and set the temp to 250 degrees. I let it sit for an extended period of time. It brittled the existing epoxy and caused another magnet to pop loose.
I am starting to think it is heat related only.

Cheers
-MS
 

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Here is some more information. I have been periodically inspecting my magnets and adhesive to see when the next failure is going to happen.

First failure at about 38k miles.
Installed used rotor with known history with really low miles.
Second rotor failed with about 38k miles total.
Brand new factory rotor installed along with Compufire Series RR unit that has a huge impact on thermal load and brought the engine temperatures way done on that side of the engine.
Most recent inspection of the current rotor was made at 105k miles about 44k miles on this rotor.

The epoxy, has turned darker, but is not the bright orange color I have seen prior to failure.
The epoxy is is not brittle, and has good feel when poked with a pick.

The single data point conclusion is that controlling the heat at the stator with the series RR unit, is extending life of the epoxy. The bike has been used the exact same way it has been used in the past.

I also tossed on an old rotor on my hot plate and set the temp to 250 degrees. I let it sit for an extended period of time. It brittled the existing epoxy and caused another magnet to pop loose.
I am starting to think it is heat related only.

Cheers
-MS
So it sounds like they changed the epoxy they are using on the new rotors in comparison to the original ones. Did do anything to your bike to make it run a lot cooler that would prevent it from ever hitting the temps that would have previously fried the epoxy on your first 2 rotors?
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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Discussion Starter · #570 ·
So it sounds like they changed the epoxy they are using on the new rotors in comparison to the original ones. Did do anything to your bike to make it run a lot cooler that would prevent it from ever hitting the temps that would have previously fried the epoxy on your first 2 rotors?


I am pretty sure it is the same epoxy.

Yes, I did change something. Please see previous post and several posts this thread about running the CompuFire series RR unit along with temperature data.

http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/1852125617-post295.html
http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/1852126721-post311.html
http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/1852127297-post318.html
http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/1852127593-post322.html

-ms
 

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I just inspected mine after hearing about this as I was experiencing charging problems and vibration. One of magnets was destroyed, one damaged, and a winding was severed.

Year: 2005
Miles: 21k
Oil: n/a

If anybody has spare loose magnets, I could really use some. :)
 

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Is this the one you guys are referring to?
Anyone know of a diagram to wiring it in?

https://www.amazon.com/Compu-Fire-R...d=1481873857&sr=1-1&keywords=Compufire+Series

I am pretty sure it is the same epoxy.

Yes, I did change something. Please see previous post and several posts this thread about running the CompuFire series RR unit along with temperature data.

http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/1852125617-post295.html
http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/1852126721-post311.html
http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/1852127297-post318.html
http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/1852127593-post322.html

-ms
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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Discussion Starter · #573 ·

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Hi Guys, thanks for all the ideas and input on this problem.

I have an (04) K3 1Ks which has just clocked up 15,000 miles with major charging issues, RR has been replaced and I’m now moving on to the rotor and stator.

I am interested in installing the K5 rotor the lighter version.

can anyone confirm the relevant part number (the fowlers website is slightly confusing), has anyone installed this part, and can advise positives/ negatives doing so.

Thanks

Dave
 

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Hi Guys, thanks for all the ideas and input on this problem.

I have an (04) K3 1Ks which has just clocked up 15,000 miles with major charging issues, RR has been replaced and I’m now moving on to the rotor and stator.

I am interested in installing the K5 rotor the lighter version however im not usure if this is the best option.

can anyone confirm the relevant part number for the K5 rotor (the fowlers website is slightly confusing), has anyone installed this part, and can advise positives/ negatives doing so.

Thanks

Dave
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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5,128 Posts
Discussion Starter · #577 ·

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Knowledge is Horsepower
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Rotor had to be cut off?? :eek:hmy:

Heat and hammer didn't work?? How about a torch red hot on the taper?
 

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KNEE DRAGGER
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Discussion Starter · #579 ·
Rotor had to be cut off?? :eek:hmy:



Heat and hammer didn't work?? How about a torch red hot on the taper?


Heat and hammer to no avail. I had my oxy rig out for heat so I know it was hot. I didn't make it glow as fear of damaging other stuff or starting other stuff on fire around it.
Toughest one of all mag rotors in my life I have removed.


-me
 

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Magnet Epoxy?

OK guys, I have the same problem with my 2004 SV1000S. Magnets came loose. Found this problem two years ago and reattached with epoxy. It failed again. My question is what glue/epoxy brand (specifically) has worked?
 
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