I pay $220 for my insurance.Redline has a lot to do with top speed runs...
I guess to me 141 145 or what ever it is, is pretty awesome. I VERY seldom need to go that fast in town where most of my riding is done.
I went into buying this bike knowing full well it wasn't the fastest bike out there. Hence the low insurance rates. If I wanted to pay 800 a year to insure a bike, I would have bought a Busa.
Why is the SV1000S so slow!
I'm sure I’ll generate a lot of ill feelings on this post. Don't get me wrong, I love my SV1000S and didn't regret purchasing it.
Here's the story....
I managed to hit 165mph on my bike last weekend. I had a GPS with me and it registered in at 141mph. This is the fasted that I've had my bike up to and it was topped out. I think the only thing holding me back a little was the fact that I was not able to fully tuck in due to my tank bag. Even if I was I don't think I would hit more than 145mph, true speed.
Before I go any further I must say that I only hit top speed runs about once every two months. I do this in is a secluded road far away from the city limits and you can see for miles. I'll make these runs where there are no cars on the road, early Sunday mornings. I realize that there is an inherent risk doing this, but I try to be as safe as possible.
I have done a lot of mods to the bike and my last dyno run produced 117hp and 73torque. With this kind of power I would expect to see higher top speeds. The last run that I did was a 638 ft above sea level on a cool day. I weigh 235 pounds with gear on, however, I have shed about 20 pounds of bike weight after my mods. I have actually read an article in one of the sport bike magazines that say larger rides can sometimes reach higher speed than lighter rides when they tuck in as it helps remove the void between the rider and the wind screen, less of a wind vortex.
Since the last dyno run I have made some other mods to the bike. They include a BMC filter, lifted tank and snorkel removed. I do plan to have it remapped here in a couple of weeks.
I look at the current production of 600's out there and they are able to achieve high speeds than my bike, not to mention the 1000cc class bikes. So why is my top speed so low? Is it the lack of a RAM air induction or even full fairings? I do have a 16T on the front sprocket and when at top speed I'm about 1000rpm's away from my redline.
Any well thought out responses would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Rocket 6R
Here's the story....
I managed to hit 165mph on my bike last weekend. I had a GPS with me and it registered in at 141mph. This is the fasted that I've had my bike up to and it was topped out. I think the only thing holding me back a little was the fact that I was not able to fully tuck in due to my tank bag. Even if I was I don't think I would hit more than 145mph, true speed.
Before I go any further I must say that I only hit top speed runs about once every two months. I do this in is a secluded road far away from the city limits and you can see for miles. I'll make these runs where there are no cars on the road, early Sunday mornings. I realize that there is an inherent risk doing this, but I try to be as safe as possible.
I have done a lot of mods to the bike and my last dyno run produced 117hp and 73torque. With this kind of power I would expect to see higher top speeds. The last run that I did was a 638 ft above sea level on a cool day. I weigh 235 pounds with gear on, however, I have shed about 20 pounds of bike weight after my mods. I have actually read an article in one of the sport bike magazines that say larger rides can sometimes reach higher speed than lighter rides when they tuck in as it helps remove the void between the rider and the wind screen, less of a wind vortex.
Since the last dyno run I have made some other mods to the bike. They include a BMC filter, lifted tank and snorkel removed. I do plan to have it remapped here in a couple of weeks.
I look at the current production of 600's out there and they are able to achieve high speeds than my bike, not to mention the 1000cc class bikes. So why is my top speed so low? Is it the lack of a RAM air induction or even full fairings? I do have a 16T on the front sprocket and when at top speed I'm about 1000rpm's away from my redline.
Any well thought out responses would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Rocket 6R
81 - 100 of 100 Posts
SV1K speed sensor is off of the countershaft sprocket, so gearing changes also affect the speedo calibration. Check out Gearing Commander - Motorcycle Speed and Drive Train Calculator v7 which will show true speeds vs gearing. One thing worth remembering is that the tachometer is not reading accurately by about 10% high, plus the rev-limit within the ECU is set at 10,600 and the injectors are shut off when this happens. So the tachometer needle you're watching will be showing well past the 11,000 redline before the engine actually gets to 10,600. If you're showing 10,000 (as you said with 1,000 left) you're actually turning about 9,000 which with the 16/42 is an actual 137'ish.I have hogged out short slip ONS and a minus one front which is a 16 and + 2 in the rear which I think is either 42 or 44 sprocket anyways it's -1 tooth over stock in the front plus two teeth in the rear and I've had my sv1000s up two 167 and 6th about a thousand RPM from redline and it did it quick and smooth
The SV1K isn't built for maximum HP's...it's midrange torque where it shines. Max HP is in the mid 9K range so actually getting to the fuel cut is well over the max power rpm unless you've tinkered with exhaust system and cam timing where this can be extended over the stock settings. Rather than gearing down I like the SV geared UP....18/40 is nice and tall and lets the motor use its' torque without running out of revs.
Running 42/18, and agree- tried 40/16 and 42/17, both are too buzzy and run out of breath too early... either would be more interesting if I lived in the foothills, but the two hours' ride to get there sux on the highway. Taller = better for sure.Rather than gearing down I like the SV geared UP....18/40 is nice and tall and lets the motor use its' torque without running out of revs.
OEM fueling seems to be shackling the bike as well. Recently changed my '07 from a Dobeck add-on controller (which could only add fuel) to a PC V; the PC V map for the 3/4 Yosh pulls a good bit of fuel out of the upper rev range, and that's added noticeable steam above ~9500 where it used to lay down.
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Hey mate, I know this post is VERY old but I'm seeking advice about sprocket ratios.SV1K speed sensor is off of the countershaft sprocket, so gearing changes also affect the speedo calibration. Check out Gearing Commander - Motorcycle Speed and Drive Train Calculator v7 which will show true speeds vs gearing. One thing worth remembering is that the tachometer is not reading accurately by about 10% high, plus the rev-limit within the ECU is set at 10,600 and the injectors are shut off when this happens. So the tachometer needle you're watching will be showing well past the 11,000 redline before the engine actually gets to 10,600. If you're showing 10,000 (as you said with 1,000 left) you're actually turning about 9,000 which with the 16/42 is an actual 137'ish.
The SV1K isn't built for maximum HP's...it's midrange torque where it shines. Max HP is in the mid 9K range so actually getting to the fuel cut is well over the max power rpm unless you've tinkered with exhaust system and cam timing where this can be extended over the stock settings. Rather than gearing down I like the SV geared UP....18/40 is nice and tall and lets the motor use its' torque without running out of revs.
I have an '03 N model with a conservative 30,000k on the clock an I want to fit 18/40 sprocket ratios. In your experience does this make first gearing too tall?
I was injured in an accident whereby a vehicle smashed into me from behind, destroying my previous bike (Bandit 1250) and nearly tearing off my right arm. My wife purchased this SV1000N for me (previous owner was the dodgiest bloke in the world and there's so many issues with this particular example that I'm in the process of fixing) and one requirement for me is to have a bike with a decent torque curve down low and very little vibration.
Not sure 18/40 will work too well, it may make 1st a bit taller, but you risk lugging the engine...
Maybe 17/41 or 42 might be better
Maybe 17/41 or 42 might be better
I've run 18/40 for over 40,000 miles...totally good move and 1st is not too tall. The difference in 17-18T is the same as 5th to 6th. I LIKE tall gearing because you almost always can downshift to bring up the revs but once you're in top gear that's all you get. At the moment mine is geared (according to Gearing Commander) for 197 at redline. Of course it doesn't have a prayer of pulling this far but the gearing makes it really wonderful for high speed highway blasting.Hey mate, I know this post is VERY old but I'm seeking advice about sprocket ratios.
I have an '03 N model with a conservative 30,000k on the clock an I want to fit 18/40 sprocket ratios. In your experience does this make first gearing too tall?
I was injured in an accident whereby a vehicle smashed into me from behind, destroying my previous bike (Bandit 1250) and nearly tearing off my right arm. My wife purchased this SV1000N for me (previous owner was the dodgiest bloke in the world and there's so many issues with this particular example that I'm in the process of fixing) and one requirement for me is to have a bike with a decent torque curve down low and very little vibration.
Thanks for the quick reply mate, most of my riding is in an 80kph zone (50mph) and very little above and below that. I have just finished and fitted my own slightly different version of the clutch mod required to make the power delivery smoother but also makes it more civilised and usable down to 2500rpmI've run 18/40 for over 40,000 miles...totally good move and 1st is not too tall. The difference in 17-18T is the same as 5th to 6th. I LIKE tall gearing because you almost always can downshift to bring up the revs but once you're in top gear that's all you get. At the moment mine is geared (according to Gearing Commander) for 197 at redline. Of course it doesn't have a prayer of pulling this far but the gearing makes it really wonderful for high speed highway blasting.
Even with the Werks clutch which did amazing at smoothing and quieting the power delivery....I use 3000 as an absolute minimum revs to be used only on flat ground while puttering around. Of course it will run slower but things start to get pretty choppy and on mine 4000 is the minimum for WOT. (cam phasing has been altered for more overlap so mine might be a little fussier here than yours) The power pulses from the 500cc jugs are strong ones and hard on the basket at low revs. The current Werks basket is the third in the bike and I found (at least on the stock ones) that keeping the revs up just a little makes them stay tighter for longer.
Thanks for the excellent advice mate, I have been in communication with others in this forum and still learning about these bikes and how to restore and repair faulty parts along with how to rectify Suzuki's failures to manufacture certain parts properly.Even with the Werks clutch which did amazing at smoothing and quieting the power delivery....I use 3000 as an absolute minimum revs to be used only on flat ground while puttering around. Of course it will run slower but things start to get pretty choppy and on mine 4000 is the minimum for WOT. (cam phasing has been altered for more overlap so mine might be a little fussier here than yours) The power pulses from the 500cc jugs are strong ones and hard on the basket at low revs. The current Werks basket is the third in the bike and I found (at least on the stock ones) that keeping the revs up just a little makes them stay tighter for longer.
I have just finished a rotor repair with the JB Weld and reassembled the clutch basket with a variety of changes, fixed a leaking clutch slave and repaired the throttle switch block. I still have a ways to go with rectifying everything wrong with this bike but so far the repairs have cost very little....
I have read and referred to many posts that you have been involved in over the years and believe me, I really appreciate the wealth of knowledge and experience that you, GC Cobra and many others have made available to the community. As I recently said in another post, I have come very late to the SV1000 party but so glad that 20 years of experience and information is available for me to draw upon.
Just to finish, the short ride that I took with my refurbished parts fitted only went for a maximum of 10 minutes but I checked for vibes throughout the rev range and it had very light vibes all the way from 2000 to 11000, I could accelerate VERY lightly from 2500 and WOT from 3500 with no complaints, running on flat ground at 2000 just provided gentle engine pulsing and WOT at 2500 was not the best, but not horrible, just slightly more vibey and the motor complained a bit. When I'm finished and back to riding full time I'll forget the tacho and just ride it by feel, as I've been doing for my 36 years on the road. I just need to develop that 'intuition' for a V-twin that I have had over 27 years of riding Bandits.
And me in reverse...... 70k kms on a VTR then 354k on the SV......four bangers are a weird thing to me now............................ I just need to develop that 'intuition' for a V-twin that I have had over 27 years of riding Bandits..................
I know what you mean mate, we're on opposite sides now! I loved the 1250, heavy beast but effortless power. Just thinking that I still have a few bits for the 1250 that I never fitted, including a K&N air filter and a Healtech X-Tre Power Box that I never got around to fitting to mind before it was totalled, are you interested?And me in reverse...... 70k kms on a VTR then 354k on the SV......four bangers are a weird thing to me now.....
The power box maybe, though Mototrack (local dist) doesnt show the X-TRE Power Box for my 07 model ...what year was yours ?
Got a BMC filter.....they are 3 ply and K&N are 2 ply.......better filtration for the road....
Got a BMC filter.....they are 3 ply and K&N are 2 ply.......better filtration for the road....
Yep,, they're better filters for sure. Don't know about the power box, not at home at the moment but I'll check when I get back on Sunday. So you've got the silver engine? I don't know if there was a difference apart from a different colour but there may be. I had a 2012 version and I know it was suitable for mine, maybe Suzuki didn't retard the timing in the lower gears for the earlier models? I don't know. Are you loving the torque curve? I rode mine from 2500 to 4000 most of the time riding that ridiculously chunky torque curve down low and ended up tearing into the back tyre.The power box maybe, though Mototrack (local dist) doesnt show the X-TRE Power Box for my 07 model ...what year was yours ?
Got a BMC filter.....they are 3 ply and K&N are 2 ply.......better filtration for the road....
I want theses items....
ATRE G2
STV eliminator
PAIR eliminator (cause without the baffle its snap crackle and pop)
ATRE G2
STV eliminator
PAIR eliminator (cause without the baffle its snap crackle and pop)
#1, yeah, me too. I do have an eliminator box but it won't work with the SV.I want theses items....
ATRE G2
STV eliminator
PAIR eliminator (cause without the baffle its snap crackle and pop)
#2 don't bother. If you have the ability to remove the throttle bodies (pull out tp the right side of the bike) just remove the secondary butterflies WITHOUT disturbing the shaft position and don't disconnect the stv actuator socket, only those blokes who have undone the plug and changed the shaft positions have had issues.
#3 totally unnecessary, buy a marble instead, it's cheaper and blocks the pipe from the airbox to the pair valve.
If you need to remove every possible gram of weight from your bike because you want to go racing, then sure, fit the stv and pair eliminators, if not, then save your money. Once you remove the secondaries you should open up the airbox SLIGHTLY by drilling a 16mm hole each side of the top cover and leave the 'pig snout' in there. Only one throttle body is drawing in air at any one time and the inlet amount for the airbox should be the same size as one of the throttle bodies. The 1250 runs rich down low and lean up top, opening up the airbox further will require remapping to counteract this and removing the stv won't have any negative effect down low as it's already running rich.
The ATRE has the gear indicator too, and i keep forgetting which gear i am in...ha ha
I think that is the shaft is left in, and it lays "flat" than that would restrict airflow as much as leaving the butteflies in....
Will think about that one..
Did the marble on the PAIR on the SV many many years ago.....nver gotround to getting rid of the PAIR valve rubbish...might get the eliminator maybe...its cheap
I think that is the shaft is left in, and it lays "flat" than that would restrict airflow as much as leaving the butteflies in....
Will think about that one..
Did the marble on the PAIR on the SV many many years ago.....nver gotround to getting rid of the PAIR valve rubbish...might get the eliminator maybe...its cheap
I forgot that it was only the full naked version and the GSX1250FA that had the gear indicator, the half faired version missed out for some ridiculous reason.The ATRE has the gear indicator too, and i keep forgetting which gear i am in...ha ha
I think that is the shaft is left in, and it lays "flat" than that would restrict airflow as much as leaving the butteflies in....
Will think about that one..
Did the marble on the PAIR on the SV many many years ago.....nver gotround to getting rid of the PAIR valve rubbish...might get the eliminator maybe...its cheap
Just unscrew and remove the secondaries altogether, don't disconnect the wiring and don't change the position of the shaft, no dramas. While you're there plug up the pair tube.
When I removed the secondaries, drilled the two 16mm holes and fitted a slightly less restrictive muffler my 1250 certainly became more sprightly! There is a VERY small dip in low end power only detectable on a dyno run after removing the secondaries but the engine breathes better overall and I certainly felt the improvement. DO NOT drill a huge hole in the airbox lid as some others have done unless you are going to get your ecu remapped. Bandits are already lean in the top end of the rev range and you'll make it much worse.
These are great 'bang for buck' bikes and some blokes go all out modifying them in the search for more power, just buying a mor powerful bike to start with seems smarter....but having said that, just doing the 'free' mods I mentioned should be enough for most riders.
So basically the STV shaft will still its normal gyrations without the butterflies...?
Did you notice any alteration to fuel usage ?
My bike has a Scorpion muffler on it....sounds reasonable too....took the baffle out and it really got some more go about her.
(on a side note, i found those slave parts....sent a Marketplace message about it, and the slave is there, and its included in the engine price anyway)
Did you notice any alteration to fuel usage ?
My bike has a Scorpion muffler on it....sounds reasonable too....took the baffle out and it really got some more go about her.
(on a side note, i found those slave parts....sent a Marketplace message about it, and the slave is there, and its included in the engine price anyway)
Yeah the stv actuator still does it's thing without the butteflies, akaik the only guys who have encountered f1 issues are those who have unplugged it or removed it entirely. Just unscrew the butteflies with a good JIS screwdriver and you'll be good to go, just don't try to use a philips head or you'll round out the screw heads.So basically the STV shaft will still its normal gyrations without the butterflies...?
Did you notice any alteration to fuel usage ?
My bike has a Scorpion muffler on it....sounds reasonable too....took the baffle out and it really got some more go about her.
(on a side note, i found those slave parts....sent a Marketplace message about it, and the slave is there, and its included in the engine price anyway)
I did track my fuel usage, only increased marginally when I fitted a Holeshot muffler, nice note, straight through!
On a side note, mine really did benefit from a fuel injector treatment every few thousand k's or so. Really improved smooth runni,idling, power top end and it started within half a second when you pressed the starter switch. There are a number of blokes who have documented having to remove the filter from the tank and give it clean in an ultrasonic bath, using the injector cleaner, for me, meant a better performing bike and I never had to clean the filter.
Yep, I think I'll buy the slave kit from you, I'll just have to tee up a time with you.
I run injector cleaner semi regular.....usually only once between oil changes.....so i will keep that up.
Getting 300 from 15.25 litres now, that wit the Scorpion can.....the baffle didn't last in there long enough for me to
check mileage then.
If it makes it easier for you, i could meet you at the Bearded Dragon at Tambo, or Yarrabilba after work ?
Getting 300 from 15.25 litres now, that wit the Scorpion can.....the baffle didn't last in there long enough for me to
check mileage then.
If it makes it easier for you, i could meet you at the Bearded Dragon at Tambo, or Yarrabilba after work ?
81 - 100 of 100 Posts
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